Prwa101

Count the splines on the transmission axel stubs. 23 splines are going to be n/a. An 25 will be turbo. Prwa

Hold on there, it's a common misconception that the 2.5's are a crappy engine. When in fact the 251 which is what you have is actually a fantastic engine. I have almost 275,000 on my 2000 forester and have never hand any major issues. She keeps pushing. Now when it comes to earlyre outback and forester that's when the 2.5D was in place, which in fact that is a shitty engine. and this is one reason why you can pick up a 251 for cheap. Happy forestering! PRWA

Yes you can. Prwa

Nice score! By change did you have it on a trailer in sandy by bimart!? I totally saw it, Thinking to my self that's a nice brat! Prwa

There you go. This is just one I had on my phone. The crossmember blocks were bent amd twisted as well. And if you haven't heard of any other people with bent blocks you prolly haven't read enough. I do believe there two imprezas in Washington that had sjr lifts until they went wheeling once and destroyed them. All his block are like [ and given enough force there going to twist and bend. Compared to [] being twice as strong. Doing king spring and spacers will give you, 1.5" spring rating, and another 1" on the strut. That's 2.5" more clearance because you won't be dropping the subframe because you don't have to. Sjr lift will drop your subframe 3" and strut at 4" only give your one inch of clearance over stock. Able to run larger tires BUT your already limited on what size tire you can run with the purch issue. THE LESS YOU LOWER THE MORE CLEARENCE YOULL HAVE. And if people say the Cvs wont Handle that I've been running it for several months now with no problem. The spring higth vary depending on load capacity also. Cheaper, better ride, Easyer install, more clearance, weight cap goes up ect ect ect. 419$ shipped on springs. 200$ 1" lift 619. Or 750. Kit doesn't improve ride ability or weight capacity. And yes forester struts 98-02 can run that size tire. Might have to bash the rear purch a little though.

Exstra-S is OEM gear oil for subarus. It's better than anything else I've used before. People have said it makes a slight grind when shifting go away.

Personnly it would be more cost affective to run king springs and a spacer on top of the strut. Most lift kits on the market won't affect camber if there done correctly. But I would highly suggest reinforcing SJR's block so try don't end up dent and broken. These guys http://207.55.114.76/dan/index.html Springs http://www.get-primitive.com/

I went on my 00 forester with kyb excel g, king springs and 1" strut lift. I Love it! What year is your leggy? Might have to drop the sub frame too with forester spacers.

hahahaha!! this is so true! 88 gl turbo for 200$ 90 loyale free although i just sold my wifes 93 loyale for 1200$ but it was pretty perfect and ran like a champ. Pretty much your car is only worth what someone wants to pay for it. took me sevral weeks to sell her car, right guy came and payed cash. PRWA

Good informations haha.. ^ what he said

please exsplain what you mean by a "bad 2.2"? could be fixable, or parshily salvagable.

King springs make the world of difference and give you about 1.5" of lift. Fully loaded with camping gear and beer and it barely sags anything in the rear with king springs. Prwa

Personally thats what i though at first too, I drilled out my rims like you soon will. But i found that its much easier to just do the hubs, and ruin the look of the rim. if you got the rims for 80$ you should just get another set and run near stock tires on that rim. Its makes a much more professional look and feel. But there is one up side for me having both 6 lug and 4 lug on my rims. If a buddy with stock 4 lug does blow out and needs a spair he could always run one of mine to get back to town. as far as getting wheel studs, easy, just go to the junk yard knock several out. the yard near me practically gives them away as no one takes them.

Wait wait wait. Your talking about drilling the rims out? You know it's prolly Easier to drill the hubs out and more economical? That's what I was refereeing to. Most tire shops won't touch the rims if there drilled out. Also it will need to be counter cynced so the nuts fit correctly.

Drill it with a 1/4" then 3/8 then 9/16". Start smaller first makes life Easier.

Cant beat free though, and the oil psi seems to be pretty accurate. Of course i will prolly upgrade down the line. I plan to make an alluminum plate for that stop and mount my gages for reals with some light switches for the rack i want on it

well it sure has been a little while sincie ive updated my build. here i am so far. Got married moved into a nice house that has a garage! so no more working in the woods haha. Finished my 6 lug drill, Got a cold air intake hooked up! Thanks DREW! haha started my D/R swap go by 3.7 single range! this is me and my buddy (box of pop corn) dropping the single range out haha. out with the old in with the new! lets hope i dont bend this rear diff drop.. Mounted come gages in the little cubby by the shifter, only have the oil PSI hooked up did see much of a need for the other ones. Oh and i finished the exhaust! with a lot of cutting and welding haha this should work for a while until i have Steven make me a new set up. No pix yet though

Hahahah! There my studed set. Cant beat 100$ with rims. Figured I'd brun them up haha. They don't help much in 4' of smush snow haha

"100% new" not rebuilt like all the other ones out there. Supposedly they only have a 9% return rate on there axels, which the ones you bought are prolly close to 95% haha... Also the big deal about these guys also is they designed a 90+ ej slip yoke axel that articulates 50% more than oem axels. Not sure why its so cheap though, could be there trying to promote there product by offering a lower cost? Worth a shot Prwa

Theres a 99.9% chance you got junk outa the box. it might be worth trying these... Only 40$. Supposedly 100$ NEW I believe that its the right part number for yours. Coudnt hurt! http://www.prostreetonline.com/pnsku/hri-92776.asp Prwa

An official welcome to the older generation Subaru. Two months ya say, hmm thats pretty good! My buddys only last about a month, and he has his cross member dropped 1". (the parts the engine sits on." All of the after market axels are garbage and this is why your having this problem. My wife had a stock 93 loyale and she ran her axles boots tore for over a year clicking like no other on every corner. Its just one flaw after market people havnt figured out i guess. ^ good advice above

Haha as far as i know its the original engine and no major work done to the engine other than head gaskets, also apart from tune ups valve adjustment and rebuilt tranny last year. I bought her at 230k 4 or 5 years ago. First owner was a older lady who traded it in then the second owner was an older guy who drove only HWy miles. Then me. So its pretty possible its been babyed its entire life. I think people get scared when they see that many miles. But this car just keeps on going much like any other Subaru with proper maintenance! I can get her hitting 300-320k easy. Very good compression on all cylinders haha PRWA

This is how we buy it at our shop. Comes right from Subaru in Japan, made by fuji heavy industries. I could almost guarantee that it did.

That's it! Not sure on the cap though. Rear will prolly be near 1 quart. And I know the eJ 5speeds hold just under a gallon. 3.7quarts if I remember correctly. But not sure about the brat stuff

Extra S. Its what comes in Subarus right outa the factory. on top of that its amazing to use. Subaru dealerships dont use it on vehicles they service because they have contracts with another company Valvoline or amz? cant remember.