Prwa101

Had a little time today after class to try figure out the temp gage... No luck.. I read if you hook the ej temp gage wire to the ea temp gage wire pin 13 right? It'll just read half the normal amount on the ea gage..... It's reading full on above the red and beyond.... I even tryed with with the resistor... Nothing... Any one have any ideas?

Nice looking Chev! Looks clean pretty darn clean! That's a pretty good steal! Haha. 4WD I know my dad Chev in order to pull it out of 4 back into 2, you need to back up 100 feet? I can't remember the actual number but I remember it had something to do with back up to disengage. Might want to search a Chev form for it? -Prwa

Any one want it? made it to pay for some of books for school... cut at 15D angle, Read brackets are welded at a 45, NOT bent.. Ive been told TIG welds are stronger. Just like every other lift 2" lift, it puts your axles at a harder angle.. No bolts. Simple, Cheap, easy. 60$?? +shipping Prwa AAE

Ahahahahahhah!

Makes Sence! Thanks! And yeah sorry bill!

True, I agree... Wait dropping the sub frame dosnt change the angle on the axels, because your pretty much dropping the engine. you'd have to drop the tranny mounts to change the angle right? Now all dropping the sub frame does is allow the axel to have more clearance from the sub frame? I was just thinking, don't take anything I said the wrong way!

Haha I just had someone put a note on my forester wanting to buy it... If I'm driving it, it's not for sale haha.

No, with a 2" lift you don't drop the subframe. Don't need to extend the stearing either. All a 2" lift is, is blocks under the struts.

NOT A MYTH! I fried mine on my ejswap that way.

Haha good to hear it I was hoping you'd mess around with the jumper wnought change the status of the battery haha. Good advice for thebattry, (CLEAN IT 100%) use of fine sand paper and do the cable and the post. And don't plow the accid... I've seen to many guy blow it and get it in there eye... No good... Just use a little brush. -Prwa AAE

Okay... So hook one end of the jumper cables togeather (red black). You have a U. Now hook the other clamps from the jumper to the starter signal wire and the red hot 12v power. But you want to be able to control the power through the wires by the side you hook togeather. So hook the starter side up first and regulate it with the other side when you clamp it to it self.(part I described first, red black) It's the same thing as in the video, the screw driver is the "U". The jumper cables are doing the same thing. You could also just use a wire instead of jumper cables... Lol.

Your wanting the car in nutreal, Hook one on the little metal stub that the starter signal wire is ( pull it off) you'll see it its the smallest wire on the starter. Hook the other to the 12v power, then arch them with the other side by hooking them togeather. Creating a U. It's pretty simple. If you want to you can turn the key on and do it too and start it up. They make a button starter thing that does the same thing as the cables do. Make Sence? I've done this many times, MAYBE a little spark but nothing that will harm anyone let alown catch oil on fire. Gas yes BECAUSE IT'S FLAMIBLE HAHA. This is what your doing, but not with a screw drive because you can't get it in there.

Did you try the jumping the starter trick? Like I said in my first post, not the starter.... I'm starting to wonder if anyone watches that video haha. Check you voltage on the ignition relay.

Is say its not the starter clicking, it'll click rappedly. Not what yours is making. If replace the ignition relay, that's prolly what's clicking. You can also do a jumper test, get a pair of jumper cables, hook one on the starter signal wire that's coming from the can, smaller red wire, and the hook the other end on the power in wire going from the battery to the starter, and the other ends hook togeather, should turn over.( so the cables make a U.) Check your voltages on the relay. And if you can start it with the jumpers, and am tired of tinkering around with it, I had the same problem your having so I just wired in a new wire from the signal starter wire (small red plug) and wired that to the ignition switch, in the "start" position Good luck! -Prwa

General Disclosure use to do them im not sure if he still does, i think sjr is doing them? If its OBD1 I could do it, BUT you would be my first customer, i did mine not to long ago and it runs great. Ive seen people charge 250$ for the obd1. Prwa AAE

Nice! I remember seeing a thread on nasco, but havnt seem his site! That pretty sweet! But holy Jesus! 400$ for a 2" lift! I can't even see a price on the 4"! Haha. Looks like I have my work cut out for me! Haha that looks like a narly hole haha I'm surprised it came out. I know my stock forester does better in the snow than my buddy's lifter sammari and I had bald tires! Yeah I wouldn't be running an LSD either, full AAE LOCKER baby! In rocking climbing I'd beable to go anywhere. Haha. How many inches if yours lifted? Haha.

Welcome to USMB!

WD40 a HAMMER and a block of wood -Prwa

Yes he said it'll click, when means he dosnt have enough power going to the starter.... If he can get it to start by bypassing the ignition switch with the jumpers his issue prolly lies between the starter wire and ignition switch. When my loyale was having this simmaler problem, although I couldn't even get it to click, but could get it to start by jumping the starter, I just wired in a new wire, from the starter to the 12v "start" position on the ignition. All this does is bypasses every switch in the car that's between the starter wire and the ignition switch. This is a quick fix, it worked for longer than a year untill I sold it I'd check you voltage on the "start" position wire, you may have a faulty ignition switch. Ignition relay could also be the issue. -Prwa

Edit: I'd go with the bad starter. You can take them to napa and they'll test it for you. Or you could just throw the other starter from the prev engine in it and see if it works if you still have it?

For sure!

How you tell if its that is check the compression on each cyl, if you have a 0 psi one rocker is off. Hard start? Take a little winding. It pretty easy I guess, gotta take the valve covers off and if it still stuck open you won't have to take the cam case off and deal with the others. What you going to want to do is, put the rocker back into place and turn over till the cam roals around to hold it into place with a little pressure. The a lot of WD40, also took a hammer and a punch and pounded on it a little. If it dosnt come free, hold the rocker there and keep WDing it and turning it over till it pops. Kinda a hard thing to explain... Let me know what you pressures are first though! That'll tell you a lot about the engine too run some fuel cleaner through it too!! Haha. Takes time to burn crud out.

Very good point! Yeah I read its lower geared front and back VLSD, and it's a 4" lift. Really nice build! One thing I seem to not see, is I don't think anyone makes higher than 2" that I can see. So I may have a market if people are willing to buy.

I need to rethink my prioritys? Haha. I have a foredter that's going to get a build. Not a rock crawler, trails are where it's at Espeshily here in Oregon!

Try jumping the starter? It ilimanates the ignition switch and should turn it over. You can use jumper cables, one on the starter wire going to the ignition and the other on the power going in (red) from battery, I'm pretty sure, then at the other end of the jumpers touch them togeather and it should turn over. Good luck -Prwa