Prwa101

Mk guys, been working full time, trying to finish my ej swap, save money for a wedding next summer AND save money for the first build of this locker.... Got in contact with a guy in estacada that does realt good work and was really helpful so I got the costs for the first build and a potential cost for each unit soon production. BUT have some to the conclusion for people with very little money it's hard to pay people to make things..... Costs: 1500$ first build. maybe less? Depending on time at the shop he said. 1000$ for a custom broach for the splines... 2500$+ for just the first one.... So per unit if what the guy told me was correct, cost for you guys would be about 500$. Give or take. It really sucks being poor... Just thought I'd give you guys a update and to tell you I havnt given up! still working away! -AAE

Yup! I thinking the same thing when I had the same issue! Glad you for it fixed! Prwa AAE

I stubled across this today, http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1077542 Numbchux had the same problem, said it was grounds/power... Going through the harness agin... Haha. gosh I want this car running!

All of my ecu ground head toward the intake where there are two grounded points. I don't see where I could have messed up..... Gosh I love wires... Had dreams about It last nigHt haha.

Not to be rude. But it's not the ea side. I can stick any 12v on the ea fuel pump wire and get it to go. The ej ecu isn't grounding the ej fuel pump relay like it should. Got the new diode in. And still nothing... I'm debating on getting a new harness... Or cutting this one up and fallowing http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=136053. As a start over.. I've double checked ever ground and power... And don't see anything wrong... I have the harness out now, been looking trough it for a couple hours now... Dang I even got my 29" tires on the rear now... Haha. So close.. Maybe I'm missing a wire to hook up some where for the first fire off.... What all needs to be wired and tapped into for it to run? I know the main power, starter wire, ignition switch 12v on. I think that's all I've had so far...

Eh I'd say it's a water pump dude. Try that first before you jump into HGs. It's a pretty simple replacement. If your rad seems good.

I buy a lot of my part from Rockauto.com lowest price and a good selection of brands. Depending on what kinda of car you got, felpro are great for the ea82's -Prwa

Yup! And the sucky thing is... I was just there today getting some studs.... Gah.. Haha. It's cool I got more things I need to get anyways. Oh and found something interesting "A diode allows electricity to flow in one direction only and blocks the flow in the opposite direction" Makes a lot of Sence why It wasn't working! Going to get that tomarrow!! Thanks GD!! Glad I didn't give up.. I was close....

No man it's fine! Be blunt as you want! Yeah learning a lot... For pin 14 and 15, it the ecu pin out, it says grounds (ignition) and grounds (power supply) but I know what you mean there! Haha. I'm not that new to wiring haha. Ahhhh "goast" makes Sence why it went away..,, haha. And I thought I was going crazy! 12v for power 0 ohms for grounds! Did not know this!! Good to know!! Haha. I completely understand! And I want you to know I apprishiate all the help you have given me!! BUT HUGE UPDATE::::::: I desided to pull the harness out of the car and run through the diagrams more till I find something! So I got it out started looking through it and POW! Or more like bzzz 'melt' It looks to me that before I had fixed the ignition relay wire (or something) can't remember it shorted it out and melted it... It melted the diode! Now could this cause the issue? I kinda think yes. Haha. AND!! (not connected to the diode) but near it I have a dark yellow wire Named "fuse box needs power" that goes to the "ignition coil" "ALT-2" wich is the fuel box?, and then goes to the diode?? Should this get switched power or always have power?? Now correct me if I'm wrong, I had it set up having power go through the wires coming from the ignition relay, sending out power from the ignition relay. (don't as me how) haha. But I'm guessing it only likes power going one way through the diode? And when I had pushed it through the opposite way it toasted it? And I found out it goes to D5 12v in the "on" and running. Now let's fix this issue and look through the diagrams and see what else I come up with!! Thanks GD!

Ya ground issue... I groused that pin 14 got .3v at the FP wire. Grounded more and got .5v. Time for grounding!! Thanks guys!!! Edit: IM GOING CRAZY.....

Rockauto.com is a really good place to buy parts. I havnt gon wrong there. Gates is a good brand to buy stuff from. But only of you have a week or so to wait for the parts to come in the mail. Yeah it's between the thurmastat and radiator. In my old red ea82 I was too cheap to buy a new anything because it was about to blow up anytime. So I pulled the thurmastat and ran it with out to keep more flow. (I don't advice it) But a going bad radiator will some times push fluid up into the fill coolent box when its warm and has a lot of pressure in there. Prwa AAE

Start with the cheapest and easiest, thurmastat like he said, then go from there. It's between a water pump and radiator. You can some times pull the radiator out and try and blow through it, if it goes easy it's prolly good, or if it's hard to blow through id get a new one. A radiator shop can test it too. Up to you though. I personly would start replacing those things untill it goes away. Can't hurt knowing you have something new and more reliable in you car But sole good advice fix at ASAP, unless you want a head gaslet Jon added on that too. it's what happend to my fiancés car 100 miles from home, radiator would push any water through it. that was a good week haha. Good luck man. -Prwa AAE

I pretty sure 95+ r160's diffs came with solid axel clip in stubs, and most ej axels I'd say are going to be stronger than an old EA82 axel. -Prwa AAE

Not trying to be rude by all means, but I'm kinda cusiose how many places the bar bolts to the body and where? From what I can see in the pictures it's only 6? Now for me and where I live I'd be curious to see how much it can handle on the roads over here in Oregon going under a "milde use" to me, it could be small trees growing down the center of the road running them over along with small bolders. Needing a lot of brute streangth to push them over. I'd make one and put it on a rig you want to beat up, and really see what it can handle. Ram some trees and give it a good ol beater upper down some rocky gnarly roads. -Prwa AAE

Hahahhahaaha! If you've got the money and time! HELL YEAH!! That thing would be unstoppable!!

Okay did some checking on the grounds, F47 (D) pin 14 and 15 are grounds, power supply and igniting, bot of thouse are getting .57 and .66v in the on position! Sound bad? And can I splice into thouse news the ecu and ground them locally? (if .5v is bad of course)

It's a 93 leg ej22 harness and ecu, the diagrams I have don't seem to fully match up( can't find the 93's). Could this be where I have an issue? The 93 maybe had another site or something that needed to be hooked up??? Anyone know?

Ej22! Won't let you down!

Still havnt figured it out.... Ecu still isn't growing the fuel pump relay... I opend it up looks clean and I can't see how it'd be bad since I drove the car home, and the Ecu and harness has need sitting in my room on a shelf for a couple months.... Hmmm What grounds, ground that green fuel pump relay Ecu wire? Or how do you tell if the ecu is on? If I'm missing a power...

ECU still isn't grounding though... Should I open up the Ecu and check it out?

Grrrrr.... Two things, poped open the igniting relay, sure enough the green "on" position wire on the inside little itsy bitsy wire was broke and that connection, AND I didn't have a good enough connection coming from the "on" position which made that wire go.... I HAVE IT FIXED!!! =D Thanks GD!!! Man owe you!!

A full 12v + coming from the igniting relay.

That would make Sence... This is what I have at the yellow and red in the off position along with in the on position.... New ignition relay it is.... :/ Thanks guys!

I'm thinking it a power issue... Seeing as its having issues as it is, with power. Now time to trace wires....

Hmmm well back to the drawing board... Im not getting over 5v coming from the ignition relay yellow/rd wires. But have a full 12v+ on the yellow coming from the batt. And it seems that I have 5v I think at all times in thouse yellow/rd wires... that go to the FPR power.... Good point.. Fire=bad. Although.... This isn't a Subaru BUT, it has the same set up as I'm talking about. Hmmmmmmm.......