Prwa101

It relay depends if you like your old ea tranny? i like the old school push buttons never had any problems with them why change something that works perfect haha. Prwa

*Droooooool..........

Okay, fixed most of if! The two yellow wires in the diagram don't get enough power from the two yellow and red wires going to the ignition relay, only 4-5v. So I wired the FPR yellow wires to the "on" position on the ignition. That fixed it! But only if I ground the green Ecu wire on the fuel pump relay, and I get my 12v at the power wire heading to the pump! Any ideas why the Ecu isn't grounding the fuel pump relay? Could I just leave it grounded, since I have both power wires on in the "on" position on the FPR? And that diagram from what I'm exsperincing is wrong... :/ Thanks guys!!

ahhh so the ignition relay sends out 12v through the yellow red wire in the "on" positions, BUt im not getting that 12 so somethings messed up... hmmmm yeah i have something wrong, im going to check it out!!! Why would it only send out 5v to the relay??... hmmmmm hey no problem man! Youve said things to make my brain click on haha

Hey no its not a problem! and yes i know how it works, from what you have said, both they yellow wires on the fuel pump relay need 12VV! so then the diagram in the wright up is wrong???? yeah im only getting 4V maybe 5 on they top yellow ones, which means i need to wire thouse into the yellow wires on the ignition relay? what they diagrams showd was that the yellow ones connect to the yellow and red ones... where im not getting 12V for sure. i have it done the same as it shows in the diagram... and im not getting 12V at those yellow wires on the fuel pump relay, that are hooked to the yellow red wires... im thinking it was a meta fore for the "rest of the harness".... Damn... sound right?

Fuel pump relay?? under the dash, blue plug?

Mk I try that too, but I'm not getting power past the EJ fuel pump relay, no power out through the power wire to the--[]-x ------->Fuel pump. Do you guys know the volts that each wire that goes to the fuel pump relay needs? In the on position? Oh just relized, if I wire over 12v to the ea fuel pump wire I can get it to turn on!!! So my ground at the fuel pump is good! Gosh sorry big thing that I forgot to say.... Thanks for the help guys!! love this site and the people on it!

6 or 7 one of thouse is another tranz block. I'm thinkin the more sturdy looking one. And 8 I'm not completely sure but it may be a driveline hanger drop. Not needed. This is a 6" lift keep in minde. And once you start working on it, it'll make more Sence what's all needed. Look through my build, I've done everything but the front struts getting plates cut out now for it and just got a 20' section of 4" dia pipe from work. Are you going to make your own? For the trans in this case there's 4 blocks, to on each side, there a step in the frame, so it's not a continuous block. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=127240 the rear xmember is only needed depending the size of you tires, it dosnt change much. It's kinda more of an 6" that you'll need that on. Idk up to you though, more work or less haha. Or just do it last a d see if you really want to.

Hmm well i can get to pump to turn on with the old EA set up right next to this one, so are you saying it needs another ground? EDIT: im not getting power past the FPR....

Mk ive spent days trying to trouble shoot the problem, this is was i have at the FPR (fuel pump relay) Im not getting power the main power to the fuel pump wire, green is the ecu that grounds out and allows power to go to it. Two yellow are power only about 4-5V. never any more than that that i can think of.. I CAN get at least 3-4V at the FP power wire (no more than that) ONLY if i wire over a 12V power from the ignition Relay, to the Green FPR ECU wire. The Two yellow wires on the FPR are hooked together LIKE the diagram shows in the wright up... but im thinking its wrong.. Im thinking the small yellow one gets 12V and dosnt hook to that big yellow one.... ???? Anyone have any ideas?? Ive been banging my head against the wall for more than 2 weeks.. Any help would be more than appreciated!!

I'd go with an axel. I'd start with the axel and go from there. Pretty common thing to have go bad. Ea81? Good luck. Prwa AAE

For the 4" I depending on what size tire your going to want to run. You'll want to drop that 2" If you want a little less rubbing room for larger tires. Putting the 4" on the front strut moves the tire forward, and dropping that puts it back, kinda like the radioes rod exstention. Hahah! Dude it's a pain, same problem for me, what I did was take a long 2x4 stuck it on top of the hub and jumped on it pushing it down, till it'd go into place where I could get one bolt in. Lots of WD40 helps. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110173&page=3 look through this guys build, shows everything. I think that's a 6" lift though but same consept. Good luck Prwa101

It worked great with our it, till the new one came and saved time not having a code reader. Lol

Well my forester started bucking, surging and poor idel like yours, it was the upstream o2 sensor. If you unplug it and it runs better, that what it is. worked good for me! Good luck!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=133738 The picture in here is more of what your going to want. And as far as I know and have built my self, 4,5,6 you don't need. I'm pretty sure. Crossmember blocks. Strut blocks Tranny blocks Diff plate drop Diff hanger drop Rear strut lift This is all sjr used for his 4" lift. 3" frame blocks, 4" at struts. And that picture you have looks like a 3/2" lift. Hope this helps.

Hahah. 119$ for a lift for a sidekick, I've seen my buddy use hocky pucks, Way cheaper! And are really strong, It's prolly 2$ a puck for the body lift.

I agree with nipper, needs a tune up. I would guess with out even seeing it and hearing it, the plugs are corroded. Possibly original? Haha. I've seen it happend. Good luck dude! -Prwa

My stock forester could outrun my buddy's sammari in the snow, and he was running 32's with a 3"lift. I was really surprised! But I bet if we had hit the mud, he would have gotten me there. Haha. -Prwa AAE

Okay! Finnly got the harness in, and getting it worked up! BUT! Not getting power to the fuel pump wire and can't figure it out. I think I messed up with the wirring on that... But is it possible to use the ea fuel pump relay, running the ej Ecu FP wire to the ea? I tryed it and it made it work! But will that mess SOMTHING up? If anyone knows let me know! I'm prolly going to have it all togeather tomarrow, and ready to start, maybe try it? Thanks! -Prwa

When you put that 4" on the struts, your going to want/have to drop the subframe, and trannny 3". Use full size blocks, 1/4" tubing. Easy to cut them out. better than breaking axels -Prwa AAE

I know! It would make my life Easyer too! I ended up drawing up the top and bottem plates to get cnc'd for my front 4" lift... But havnt had the time to get the 4" diam pipe nor to go down to the show to get some cncing done... Free would be nice for sure! -Prwa AAE

Nice! Yeah I'd say the rear looks pretty close to a 4" with that set up!

What size tires are thouse?

Okay hold up, all of this was Ment for me giving my files out with a locker so it dosnt come back to me possibly copying a pattent. Cause it's "free". I'm not worried at all, if someone really has the time a tools to buy one from me a copy it, good for them. Then they'd know how I felt making it haha. And they'd have to live with the fact they copied my locker, and they'll get whats coming to them. CARMA. I apologies let me correct my self, my "locker" and "designIng". Not "idea". With similar aspects to the lockright locker, and Sparten locker. And your right if someone really wanted it They would have already done it. As far as pattent infringement, I Belive it has enough disimulartys to the others so itll be okay. (still workin on it though) Yeah I saw a post a while back saying ARB would make them but only off they have 50000 up front for them putting them at 1000$ a unit. One reson why I'm going to try and keep the cost down. Okay now I hope the air is clean in this subject? I'm not the best speaker and grammatical correctest person. I blame my dislexia. Didnt mean to say "mine" "yours" in that context. My bad. As far as the locker goes, workin on getting a broach made for the splines so it cuts time down on production. Meaning less $$.

My bad it is an Auto locker haha