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Prwa101

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Everything posted by Prwa101

  1. Damn that's a pretty good budget! I got my 154 pease set for 99$ from Kmart. I've I ly had to buy a few sockets like 32 and 36mm which it didn't have. Have had a problem with it, other than break ratchets lol. But life time warrantee! For 300$ you could but a pretty BA set from sears. There 20% coupons floating around too Good luck!
  2. The dash wiring is all the same, all the cluster wires I know for a fact. Unless its a digi.
  3. I only took two pictures, as I was way to busy trying to get it back together so my woman had a car to drive sorry dude. The only ones I took were of the cyl obviously burning water it in an of the entire thing striped down. It's pretty easy though, I did it with the motor in and it went pretty fast other that the rocker arms and cam case. Use grease to hold them on! Makes a huge difference, I don't even know how i did it! Only took me two weekend with no exspren e doing HGs.. Lol. Miles fox has a lot of vids and things on HGs.
  4. Well I know when I changed the o2 sensor on my forester it took a little hole for the Ecu to re calibrate. So you could reset it and may change it. To reset it, unhook the positive battery cable for 15-20 min. Is the egr a Oem? Or cheap version?
  5. Fabled this up after class for the ea82t air intake for the EJ MAF housing. THINK it'll work? Haha.
  6. I saw that same car the same day as you!! took a pic of it too! Looked pretty solid walking by it! Do you go to Portland state?
  7. That's pretty sweet, i was wondering who made custom wheels!
  8. NOTE----- Keeping the 4lug set up and redrilling the wheels will allow you to run stock r13s when you arnt mudding. Save on gas for some.
  9. now as a test start before i hook all the under dash wires up, what bare minimums all need to be wired in/up to get it to start? Fuel pump relay and power, Main relay. main power ecu. anything else am i missing?
  10. Xt6 clutch is on its way! Finished this stuff the last week of class! Fixed my issue here, back to 2" Not bad my my first redrill, dermal killed it, so dermal bit and drill pretty worked perfect! Got this is the mail a couple weeks ago! SJR great company!! Thanks agin! Darn it's starting to come together!
  11. Thanks! Okay I wont cut anything out, I'd rather be safe than sorry and I understand why you say that. Could end up cutting a wire that goes to something that shouldn't have been cut. The ej harness will fit through the hole under the fender fire wall, sweet saves me time! Thanks Gloyale!
  12. Well made a bit of head way in the past weeks. Got the add plate from sjr, lift completed, and starting to look at cutting the wires out of the car to fit the harness through the fire wall. Does this stuff need to go? I think it's the igniter, but not sure.
  13. I don't know if it was the digi, when I bought the car it wasn't there so I figured I could get another one, (not thinking that they did make it in digie.) The one I got from upullit is a non turbo analog. I checked all my turbo dash wires and everything lines up, only Has one wire more than the analog I got at upullit. on the smaller clip and the top of the analog. Maybe I lucked out? I guess I'll see when I get it going.
  14. It's only one wire difference, went back to upullit and cut the gage wires off to Mach them up.. Prolly for the turbo light on. I'll just have to wait and see if it works. Thanks guys!
  15. Can't seem to find a pin out of the clusters to see the difference in wires... The plugs fit perfect but look like missing wires... Anyone have a pin out of a 88 gl ea82t insterment cluster? Or really any year.. The cluster I got is out of a 90 loyale.
  16. Both manual, the only difference is ones turbo and ones not.
  17. Long story short, I bought an 88gl turbo ea82t for 260$ to drop an ej22 into, getting it all buttoned up. But the guy who had it before me sold the gage cluster, so I went to upullit for one got one off an 90 ea82 loyale but it seems to have more wires that my plugs have? Anyone have any ideas? Does it even matter? Thanks!
  18. Well the thumping noice in the back happens at lower speed and seems to fade out the faster you go and it happens when it's not in 4wd. The KLUNK seemed to start at the same time. But I don't know for sure. And yeah I made sure she knew only use it if you have to. It's still drivin! Havnt had time to look at it, been building a carport for my grandparents. Yay for architecture!
  19. Makes sense! I'll try and try that tomarrow! And yeah I know she's not stupid with her car she drives it maybe 5miles a day so, nothing that would actually break the diff Thanks!
  20. It's push button, I've had two of these cars before and it's never done this bad of klunking before so that's what started to make me wonder if somethings going bad... It'd just suck to have my woman be stranded 100 miles away from me before Ifix it... Haha. Thanks guy!
  21. Well been having some problems with my fiancés car, So I can hear a thumping in the rear, thought it was a wheel bearing lifted the rear up to check it, not the bearings... Started to turn the wheel and I can hear and feel it in the diff? Like when the driveline butts up and goes in to the diff...? And Started snowing the other days, so put her in 4wd, felt like the rear was almost locked up and didnt want to make a turn easy, and put it out of 4wd, hear a KLUNK, was not a good and not a normal noice.... Anyone what what's goin on?.... Thanks
  22. I've used a small flat head screw driver, hammer it in to the seal and pop it out. -prwa
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