Jessekrs123

Hey guys, Got this all figured out- all good info above. I ended up going with a Ø3" 1/8" thick Viton disc that I was able to get from McMaster: Gasket Material Disc, Chemical-Resistant Viton® Fluoroelastomer, 3" Diameter, 1/8" Thick | McMaster-Carr Matched up pretty well with the diameter and thickness of the old gasket, and you don't have to try to cut a perfect circle out of a sheet with an exacto. (wow I remembered how to use photobucket- blast from the past in some super old albums) I used an exacto and some hollow punches to recreate the hole pattern and the center opening for the fuel send unit (far from perfect) Cleaned up the fuel sending unit flange the best I could Aaaaannnddd... was still leaking. So, I noticed that the little G10 (maybe?) board where the leads are soldered in was rusted good all around, and probably the original source of the leak. Take the sending unit in and out a few times, agitate it, flake off what little rust is holding it all together and more leaking. So, I took some Tank Weld and filled around the outer perimeter of the board Been running it like this for a couple months now with no signs of leaks. I can fill the tank all the way up and accurately track fuel mileage now (~ 26 mpg highway with the 3AT, 65 mph ~ 3800 rpms - better mileage than my 94 GT wagon) Side note- replaced the rear fuel filter this morning (started getting some bucking going uphill- classic symptom of fuel filter clog) and found this Looks like sand. Was originally a Florida car. Been dailying it since Spring started.

Necro bump. Couldn't find any additional info on this. Long story short, recently acquired an 82 GL wagon, and this sending unit flange is leaking. Couldn't find part 7850 25000 or 25020 anywhere so I figured I'd have to make my own. What do you guys think, maybe get some NBR rubber sheet and cut it out ?

Replaced the distributor today in a last ditch effort before ripping out the harness. Fired up like it had never stopped running. Had to sand down the shaft on the distributor before it would fit into the hole without trouble, but everything is all set now. I'll need that 4WD once it starts snowing.

Hey guys, been a while since I've posted, just been driving her everyday. Recently did brake pads/shoes. Ran into a bit of a problem though. My ignition keeps cutting out randomly. I seem to have narrowed it down to there being something wrong with the signal going to the tach. When it loses ignition, the tach does not move. Check for spark and nothing. Usually the tach will bounce even a little bit while cranking. And I also sat there and watched the tach drop to nothing while the motor just died out. I don't know if this is significant or not but recently Fuse 13 the 15A fuse for the ignition coil has been blowing out I'm assuming because of my push button start I have wired to an ignition source. When this fuse blows, no dash lights or gauges work. Usually I just pop in a new fuse and I'm on my way. I've also noticed when I pull that fuse, the fuel pump clicks. Is this normal? My relays sound to be working fine when the ignition is turned to on. Checked my wiring diagrams and see that with the positive terminal on the coil is tied in with all the dash lights/tach and the negative terminal is tied in with the tach/fuel pump. Would my problem lie within the negative termianl/signal from the coil? Just picking my brain here, your help is greatly appreciated.

Had some fun at work today with the BRAT. The trailer's battery died, so we tried jumping it but just a bunch of clicking. Oh well, that is what happens when you don't run the unit for 4 months and expect it to work perfectly... Jackasses...

Got this thing running good again! Turned out either the fuel filter or the vapor separator was clogged, because I replaced both of those today and now it is running like new! Quick vid.

Drained out the gas completely and put in fresh new gas. Still bucking. The disty I got is not the right one, the shaft is too thick, it won't fit in through the hole................. I'm thinking about removing the carb and cleaning it out and see what happens even though the thing is brand new.

Thanks Todd, I already ordered the disty, all the parts on the motor were factory and getting old, just a safe measure to tune up and get some new ignition components while I'm at it. I'll drain out the gas once it gets warmer, sometime next week.

Coil has been replaced with a new unit, still bucking... I have a new distributor on the way... Hopefully this will do it.

Lol thanks for the tip moosens, but all that crap on the drivers side of the engine was deleted when I got rid of the EGR system. Yes, I need to get this thing running well soon and make my way out to a car show...

I put seafoam and drygas through the tank today and still no change. I also pulled the vacuum advance going into the dizzy, and it ran the same, no better and no worse...

New wires put on today. Pulled the plugs, everything checks out rather good and it is still bucking. It bucks really really bad when going up hill, fuel issue perhaps? Water in the fuel? Checked both fuel filters for any debris floating around and got nothing.

I got mine off and on no problem, but there are two bolts on each side (one circled in the above picture) that you have to approach at an angle. I'd use RTV or something to seal the new pan on, the factory cork gasket was hardly accurate and took a lot of fiddling to get it to fit right.

Put on a new cap and rotor this evening. Still bucking... I have new plug wires on the way, I hope this will do the trick!

Thanks twitch, I'll definitely be looking into welding up a new exhaust once the weather warms up. But right now I'm having some issues with the car. I've noticed sometimes it likes to buck quite violently in third gear at like half throttle, and sometimes at WOT. It will also buck violently when going up a long, somewhat steep hill. The Weber is new, distributor cap is new, and I have all new plugs and wires. All of the vacuum lines have been re-routed and plugged as well. I have tuned the Weber as per the directions it was sent with. Perhaps it is time for a new distributor? The only few things I can think of that would cause this issue would be a lack of air, fuel, or timing. It is definitely getting enough air, the fuel pump was replaced about 1,000 miles ago along with both filters. Distributor is probably still factory, and I'm pretty sure I routed the correct vacuum advance into the disty. I've read around that if you set the timing a little more aggressively for the Weber, there is a little gain. Let me know what you guys think, thanks in advanced.

Got this bad boy running today! And by running, I mean running and actually moving. Everything is all set, put the new clutch in, and now that I have had a chance to fix the exhaust this thing is quiet I am not even used to it's quietness its ridiculous, I kind of miss the fact that you could hear it coming from miles. Oh well I'll figure something out. Have to replace a lot of the bulbs such as the ones for the taillights and whatnot. Some of them have gone out, might as well do them all.

Wow do I feel stupid right now

Yeah, my father threw the engine back together while I was at work. He assumed everything was correct, I guess not... The car will not be run, engine will be pulled again soon. I could have sworn I saw many times on here that the 15008 kit would work for EA81s...

Dropped the motor back in a few weeks ago and got everything all set. One problem. The car will not move, and when I let the clutch out in gear, it does nothing but make a whirring noise. No noise if it is in neutral. The throwout bearing that came with the kit didn't fit either, so I used the old one, I think they sent me the wrong clutch disk, I think the only correct things in the kit were the pilot bearing and the pressure plate... I got the Exedy OEM 15008 clutch kit. Was it possible I got the wrong clutch? Pops threw the motor back together one day when I was at work, so I wasn't able to check anything. Guess I have to pull the ************ing motor again... Oh yeah, quick video of it running while I was looking for open vacuum lines from removing the EGR. No headers...

Installed both new axles today. Now I'm waiting on parts to seal up the engine, have to get out the broken exhaust studs, and I will be getting new shifter bushings as well.

While I have the engine out, I've decided to plug up both EGR ports and get rid of everything accompanied with the EGR system. I just filled the ports with some weld. A lot less piping will need to be routed back into the carb now.

I originally attempted to change out the clutch without pulling the motor. All the previous clutches I've done I pulled the motor, so I figured I'd give just sliding the tranny back a try. Big mistake. Its a lot easier to drain the coolant, disconnect hoses/electrical crap, unbolt motor mounts, unbolt tranny bolts and yank the thing right out. Here is the EA81 right after me and my father pulled it. The old clutch. As you can see, the disk is really dirty on the inside which leads me to believe the clutch is warped and was only grabbing on the outer ring which explains the slippage. Everything else looked to be in good shape, flywheel looked good. Rear main isn't leaking. I plan on removing all of the EGR crap on the engine and filling the pipes from the exhaust with some weld. Right now it is just venting to the atmosphere since I have yet to set my crankcase ventilation up. And now I have two Subaru engines sitting in my garage. EA81 & EG33. Hopefully I'll have the BRAT back on the road sometime this upcoming week. Miss driving it already even though it makes my Legacy feel like the most luxurious car I've ever driven.

Lol, I'm surprised all of the electronics work in it as well. Clutch kit goodies. The previous owner said he replaced the clutch with a 1600 FWD clutch using an 1800 pressure plate which is just plain stupid. I personally don't think he even replaced the clutch, but either way it is slipping and I need a new one especially with winter coming up when I'll need to be using 4WD and the added resistance of the snow won't make a slipping clutch any better. I have yet been able to feel the full power of this motor without the clutch slipping so it'll be nice to finally be able to truly feel all 90 pounds of torque in the low revs. I'll find out if the clutch was replaced when I take it out. Have to do this job before it starts getting cold.

More rust repair... Passenger's side floor. Now whoever rides with me won't be afraid of falling through the floor

Thanks for the advice guys, but the starter is receiving 12v right from the battery with no problems. The problem is that the 12v signal that goes to the starter solenoid when the key is turned to "start" is extremely intermittent. This has been bypassed with a cheesy push button start.