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fignuts

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About fignuts

  • Birthday 10/08/1981

Profile Information

  • Location
    Tualatin, OR
  • Occupation
    Firefighter
  • Vehicles
    1978 Brat - Sold

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  1. If you're going to replace the HG's you might as well pull the motor and do a clutch kit at the same time for insurance. It's an easy car to pull the motor on and a clutch kit is cheap......
  2. Check out this stuff: http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_how_to_stop_rust.htm It is similar to POR-15 but it works better (in my opinion) and is less expensive. I just used their bed liner and they included a quart of the Chassis Saver - it is excellent stuff, easy to use, and looks amazing.
  3. The anti-dieseling valve is energized when the vehicle is turned on - which means that it is pulled open. If the wire is not connected then the valve is closed and will cause the car to idle erratically and die. There should be a bullet connector about 1 foot from the carb or so. You do not need to remove the valve from the carb - just disconnect/reconnect the wire to it... That being said, the fact that you think it is running very rich would indicate something like a stuck float. It's kinda hard to do but check the sight glass - the fuel level should be very close to the middle.
  4. It won't idle? Did you re plug-in the anti-dieseling connection? It's the single wire coming off of the driver's side of the hitachi carburetor. I had a similar experience before I swapped to a weber - the bullet connector for that connection wasn't pushed in all the way.
  5. Thanks! The only pieces I painted were the front turn signal retainers, the door handles, and the windshield moldings. The trim for the bed, front lip on the hood, and window gutters are still off and i'm not sure I want them back on on not... Here's what I was kinda going for:
  6. Here's a couple pics of my '78. I just did the bedliner - I used Monstaliner and I highly recommend it as it really looks like a spray on liner but is rolled on and it's super tough. You can see that I missed the back sides of the bottom of the rollbar....
  7. I remember that I extended the egr connection at the back of the air cleaner because the tire wanted to sit on it. Also, my weber is the DFAV so the linkage is on the opposite (driver's) side.
  8. 185/70/13 - it closes no problem and its on an ea81 style 8 spoke wagon wheel.... I'll try and snap a pic later
  9. 1st gen brat, right? I've got a weber and a full size spare under the hood with of my '78 with no problem... I had to give it a good push because the tire is wider than the stock mini spare but it fits.
  10. I believe that the California non a/c brats did come with both fans. My 78 is from Cali and has belt driven and the electric fan, as well as factory electronic ignition
  11. Here are picks - i'd been eyeing it for awhile: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2439328999.html If you change from the ea71 you will have to swap the trans as well - the bell housings are different. If you go to a 5 speed you will need a custom driveshaft. If you go to a 4 speed d/r you will have to go to an ea81 due to bellhousing/motor mating differences. If you want to swap it the best way is to just ej22 it and be done with it, but then you have to notch the framerails.... Oh, you'll never pass California emission with a weber. So, wait to swap on a weber until after it has passed Cali emissions. Hope this was somewhat helpful and good luck! It looks to be a fun project
  12. Here's a pic of my 78 before I painted it - it was severly faded in some areas: I honestly couldn't wait to get rid of that color - it just felt to Joe Dirtish to me...
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