intrigueing

Thanks Josh I knew you would come through. The link you gave was exactly what I was looking for. The coil pack is a Diamond, My readings were 2 ohm that should be 0.7 ohm and 18.5Kohm that should be 21Kohm. Could this cause the car to die or any drivability problems? I'd hate to shell out 75 bucks on a new one with no changes in the car - and should I consider a used one?

95 leg auto. My wife had the car die at idle at a stoplight, she said it took a while to start, and since then (a week) I have been driving it with no other problems. I started poking around looking for problems, and tested the coil following my chiltons manual. Here's what I got: Spark plug post 1-2........ 2 Ohms Spark Plug post 3-4........ 2 Ohms Harness Post 1-2........19 Kilo Ohms Harness Post 2-3........19 Kilo Ohms These #'s are WAY off what the chiltons says. What should they be? Is the thing toast? Or is my cheap-o multi meter junk? I'm thinking the IAC may be the culprit, as it died at idle - perhaps time for a cleaning - anything else I should check?

Ahh ha - and hence the one I have has an oily substance on it, any harm if the thing is leaking and heading to the toilet?

95 Legacy Auto. Ok no picture, but I'm hoping someone can tell me what this is. The sensor is threaded into the block, just beneath the alternator - very near to where the block is stamped EJ22. This is not the crank position sensor, it is toward the rear of the alternator, almost under the intake. Is this the coolant temperature sensor?

If you go to: http://my.subaru.com/login/login.jsp and create an account, they have many of the manuals available for free. Also the site is an excellent way to keep track of your maintenance. You can find them here too electronically, and hardcopy for 17 $ http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/search.jsp

Check 1stsubaruparts.com for oem prices, and see if the dealer will let you bring in your own parts http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html Rotors 105 Pads 55 Drums 180 Shoes 31!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cylinders 60 Saves 300 bucks....... http://www.all-foreign.com/ - Non oem - Free Shipping Rotors 35 (yes for both) or 94 if you want brembo Pads 29 Drums 133 Shoes 35 Cylinders 69 Saves 400 bucks

I just did my front rotors / pads for 70 bucks (parts) in a cold garage in 45 minutes. I could of got brembo rotors and dealer pads for under 200 bucks. OK say midas is charging 600 per axle - Parts - 100$ (they prolly pay 50$) Labor - 500$ per hour!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Please never go there again, One of us could fly to your city take a limo to the parts store and your house, fix your brakes, stay at the Hilton, go out drinking, and still be way cheaper than that bunk!

http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/index.htm

Automatic? My guess is that you dropped it into a lower gear at too high of RPM'S, and were bouncing off the rev limiter. Do yourself a favor and don't downshift at such a high speed.

Some may not want the turbo if towing..........

I fully expected to be wrong on this. I have no formal training, unless you count the training from my ole man owning 6 ford pintos when I was a kid. He is a true backyard mechanic - one of the pintos had a screwdriver as a stickshift, and he had me change a clutch almost completely by myself at the age of eight. One of the pintos he purchased new and had over 250 K miles, not bad for a bomb on wheels:D

Ok problem still not solved. The car is a 95 Leg AT. So far here's what I know 1) The starter contacts are fine, as is the plunger washer 2) All grounds and connections are fine, and the starter turns fine once it kicks, leading me to believe the battery is fine. 3) The problem only happens when the car is cold and it is cold outside 4) The car is my wifes, however the few times recently that I have tried to start the car I did not notice the solenoid click then nothing, it has been turn the key and no noise whatsoever. All of this leads me to think that the problem is not in the starter. Tough to pinpoint, even with a voltmeter, as it does not happen all of the time. I think next time it is really cold I will pull the small plug on the starter and get the line voltage while turning the key. Does the AT have aother relay in addition to the ignition and AT interlock switch? Where are the relays so I can check the other connections? Is there a way to bypass the AT interlock relay to see if that is the culprit?

No offence taken, I'm just trying to get to the correct answer. Supaglu, are you saying that "The way I've always understood a fuel injection system - an engine can get flooded when it fails to start within the first minute, and to overcome this you fully depress the throttle to allow maximum quantity of air into the cylinders." That is what I understood and only came upon FI cars computer shutting down the gas to the injectors after doing a web search looking for the answer. I respect your knowledge and am sure that you have more insight on the subject than I.

Sixiron - Are you tallking about the plunger washer? The contacts have been replaced and recently inspected and cleaned up again. The plunger has been cleaned up twice, and looks clean and flat. I just got done cleaning every ground that I could find on the car. The ground in front of the battery was quite grungy, and I added another negative 10 GA wire from the battery to the body. The battery is 570 CCA, should this be adequate? Also one other ground that I cleaned and that was dirty was on the firewall to the engine mount area - exactly in the center. This was a ground for the a black flat plug that was labled "Power Trans Unit" anyone know what that is for? Now I am crossing my fingers that the problem is solved. One last question, and I think I know the answer - Is the smaller positive wire on the starter the one that activates the starter solenoid - and where does it go so I can check the connection?

http://www.alldata.com/techtips/2000/20001204a.html How to Start a Flooded Car Engine Q: Would you explain what could be reasons for flooding of an engine and how to start the car if flooding has occurred?...Lal Singh A: So we’re all on the same page; a flooded engine is an engine that has received too much gas for the amount of oxygen available for combustion. When this condition occurs the inside of the cylinders, as well as the spark plugs, will become wet with gasoline. A cylinder wet with gas will result in a reduction of cylinder compression, loss of lubrication to the piston and rings and cause spark to the spark plug to be misdirected. Because the large majority of engines on the road today are fuel injected we’ll cover how to start them if flooded. The computer has a program in it that is called the Clear Flood Mode. For the computer to activate the Clear Flood Mode it needs to see information that is out of the norm. This abnormal information is the sensor on the throttle reporting to the computer that the throttle is being held wide open, along with a crank signal to the starter. This combo of information causes the computer to respond by reducing, and in some cases completely shutting off, the fuel injectors. This process allows air only to enter the cylinder and dry out the abundance of gas. As the correct balance of air and fuel return you will feel the engine start to fire at which point the throttle can be released and the computer will return to normal fuel delivery. http://www.securitydriver.com/aic/stories/article-26.html If the engine should flood press the accelerator down all the way to the floor and hold it. On a fuel- injected car this sends a message to the computer that the car is flooded, and the computer in turn shuts off all fuel. On a carbureted car, pressing the accelerator all the way to the floor allows more air to pass through the manifold, evaporating the excess gas. Don't pump the accelerator while you crank the engine.

Thanks, I think I will add a wire from the negative terminal to the body. Good idea!

Yet again the blasted starter is acting up. Here's a lowdown on the history. Replaced battery - 6 months later starter doing the solenoid click then nothing, try it a few times then it starts. Replaced the contacts and cleaned up the plunger, everything back to normal. 6 months later starting to act up again, pulled starter and the contacts were minorly worn, cleaned up everything, and I mean everthing - all grounds, battery connections, bolts, battery terminals - all made shiny. The problem got much better. Two months later when the car is really cold, like 5F or lower the car takes minutes to start - unless in a slightly warmer garage - same symptoms - turn the key and nothing. I've tried jiggling the key while cranking, and there is no difference. So here is what I'm going to try. 1. Get the battery load tested just to make sure. 2. Swap the battery from my other car 3. Add an additional wire from the pos battery to the starter. So a few questions arise: 1. What is the recommended CCA for subie batteries - this one seems small, I'll check to see what it is rated at. 2. What power is required to throw the starter solenoid? It is very temperature dependant, leading me to believe there is a lack of power by the battery- however when the starter kicks it spins fine, and starts fine - weird. 3. Could other parts of the solenoid be on the fritz, causing the problem? 4. What gage wire should I run as an additional wire to the starter? - This will not be the sole wire to the starter. 5. Any additional insight-experience? Thanks for any comments

It is my understanding that with any car Fuel injected or Carburated in order to clear a flooded condition you hold the pedal to the floor (not pumping the gas) in order to fully open the intake and allow additional air into the system, and stop the choke condition. Anyone else hear this or am i crazy? By no means would I sit cranking a car for a minute like this, or try this repetedly, but it can get a flooded car started. You should find the source of the problem, and this would verify fuel delivery.

Whenever I get a problem I start by looking at what happened just before the problem - for you it was a battery change and tire rotation. I can't think of how the tire rotation could cause anything, however a battery swap could. Maybe a battery with plates that are shorting out when the cars momentum is forward. However your accessories continue to work....weird. Are you sure the accessories did not act weird at all? Make sure power cables are not pulled tight or pinched. Which leads me to some other weird conditions indicated by you - the problem only happens when gas is less than 1/2, perhaps weak fuel pump, loose wires, or something floating in your gas tank that gets drawn to the fuel intake when the gas slushes to the front of the tank, causing the car to die - maybe even setting a relay with the fuel pump to keep it from running while dry.......Water in the gas alone does not explain why the car does not crank after it dies. Something with the fuel pump is what is screaming at me now......tough one - good luck.

Josh Legacy777 has a MSD, you can click to his webpage by clicking Legacy777 at the top of the new gen page under moderators. I'm sure he will also chime in here.

Try pushing the gas to the floor and hold it there while cranking, if it does not start pull off the intake hose at the throttle body and smell for gas. Ditto check the fuses for critical items such as ecu, fuel pump, etc. Don't forget about timing. If you find spark and gas pull the timing belt covers and check to make sure the belt is in tact and the timing marks line up.

I agree, sounds like the wp. I had cam seal on the drivers side that was dripping on the passanger....weird. Where are you in Illinois? I'm in Mchenry - and a civil engineer - where are you going to school?

I'd try a full trans flush before looking for another trans. How's the fluid quality and level and when was it serviced last?

Like others said 3 mpg in the winter is not a big deal, however if you can change the plugs yourself - subies tend to like NGKs better. What MPGs are you getting? Have you been driving in different terrain or snow? Running a compression test can't hurt either.

My main concern is not that the oil is overfilled, but the differential is empty. Most people know that a 4 cylinder engine does not take 8 quarts of oil - leading me to think the diff was drained, then again most people should pull the dipstick and check the oil level after an oil change. I would demand to be in the bay when they look at your car. If the diff is dry - damage has been done and they shoud compensate you, and not just by refilling the fluid. Might not be a bad idea to bring your brother in law as a "witness". I wish you the best.