czny

The heater & a/c control has 2 screws under the buttons - one under top button, one under bottom button. You can reach the button rims with your nails to pull them off if ones next to them are pushed in/on. Be gentle with the screws when putting it all back together. The plasticizer in these plastic parts has cooked off with age making things brittle. Merry Christmas!

Been a really long time since this thread was updated. Had my share of local trouble with attempted theft and damages. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/186359-beware-of-mevotech-parts/ Decided to go with KYB 2wd struts(new old stock) and Lesjofors '94 Kia Sephia front springs(4044208 on RA), new KYB strut mounts(SM5364, IF you can find 'em). New KYB 4wd rear shocks with better looking, less rusty springs. Rear cross member with gaps in mounts filled with urethane. Superpro front strut rod bushings(SPF2534K). Superpro new moustache bar bushings(same as rear diff mount bushing). Rides much better without all the bounciness on highways. Combination of Sachs 4wd struts with those Lesjofors springs, they're about .040" thicker than stock, will get you another inch of lift in front. Combination of those and 2wd rear KYB shocks + stock rear springs OR 4wd rear shocks with Honda Accord front springs, Lesjofors 4135713, may ride even front to rear. Just a suggestion. KYB 2wd strut, Lesjofors spring, KYB mount, SJR 4" lift. For $86 shipped this McPherson spring compressor was worth it. MUCH safer to work around than those hook compressors that tend to slip and always at the wrong time. spring compressor Be sure to lube the threads and round part with gear oil.

My guess for that crack is that when the centers were formed, the stress from the deep backspacing puts extra leverage on the center. The original Scorpion wheels have spokes welded to the wheel centerline. The copies are built like a bowl with the edge of the bowl on the wheel centerline. The large "D" shaped holes add twisting around the center as the car rolls. Bad design. That is why I keep pushing the notion to get used 6 lug wheels and drill 2 holes for 4 bolt 4 x 140 pattern. 6 x 5.5 inch pattern is 6 x 139.7mm which is close enough. You'd be money ahead. el_freddo can't do this in Australia. We can if its done right. The new holes must be countersunk to match the lug nuts.

Another option for steel wheels to drill for 4 bolt pattern are 1991 Toyota 4X4 PU which have a flat center. Search the self serve yards in Spokane. then you could go to 205/70R15 radial M+S tires. Any flat center 6 lug with large center hole will do it for you too. Mazda B2200, Ford Courier, Chevy LUV, New 91 Toyota 4x4 wheels

You could have it TIG welded after blasting off the powder coat, BUT, to be sure there aren't any stress risers after welding it should be shotpeened., That crack has been working for quite awhile. Ask Bennie to put the word out for wheels, maybe(?)

Have that scorpion wheel abrasive blasted to remove powder coat, then have all weld beads TIG welded. If there's one crack there could be more developing. Then new powder coat, perhaps all of them(?)

Always wondered if it was that Subaru production kept using the drum brake wheels until ea81 production really got going by mounting only the solid rotor front disc brakes. In other words, lesser curve spokes until advent of vented front discs then sharper curve spokes. Do a search for the 6 lug conversions on Goggle OP. You might find more there in early discussions.

There are old threads on USMB for this problem. Early drum brake wheels just don't have the proper backspacing curve for disc brakes. Obviously. Hope you didn't pay much for those fb "bargains". Peugeot 505 wheels have the same bolt pattern as Subaru EA cars - 4x140 mm. New Peugot 505 alloys OR, you could do a jy search for Mazda B2200 six lug wheels, drill 2 more holes and open up the center hole with a die grinder & burr to fit. Both the Peugeot and Mazda wheels are 14 x 6 inch. AND, have the backspacing for disc brakes. Much easier to find tires for.

And here are the DEA/Marmon strut mounts, definitely made in CHINA! No stamping in outer shell, just painted PNs. Don't have any pics or pother info on Moog, Monroe or other mounts. Did finally buy a better spring compressor - it was needed for this. Will post up some pics later.

Yes, it was scary getting home. Glad it wasn't deep winter with black ice! This is how those mounts were packed, and here is the 6302RS ball brg. SMQ brand(Some Mediocre Quality, Suck My Quotas, Still making me Queazy???) Noticed that the recent Mevotech mounts I returned were stamped with the part number & TAIWAN in bold letters on the outer shell. KYBs had TAIWAN stamped in outer shells too, but the ball brgs are NSK Japan with single seal on bottom. KYB strut mount top view of stamping. OEM mounts like this one on an old 92 Loyale also have the open ball brgs but add a plug in mount top. If you every find a listing for genuine KYB SM5364 strut mounts, buy them quick 'cause they were discontinued a few years ago and won't be back! BUT, don't fall for some fake listing Like I did late one night!

Got my refund today but was unable to report this false listing on Ebay. Seems Ebay condones substituting one brand for another without sellers updating their descriptions! I'll be posting some pics of KYB, Mevotech and DEA/Marmont strut mounts for EA cars so the next buyer doesn't get stung.

I keep a bad ebay seller list on my laptop. All kinds of past misery in that list. That thread oughta be put in the off topic section.

I know of one criminal meth head and his moll who may have had something to do with this. Getting real tired of waiting for john law or karma to catch up with them... Mevotech boxes state made in Taiwan, but, those I had on hand may have been bulk China made. RA warehouses don't always ship in original boxes. Mine on the shelf were in bags with a long numbered label only. Buyer beware. BTW, don't buy from OEM Part Haus(oemparthaus) on fleabay. They listed KYB SM5364 strut mounts but shipped Mevotech ones. I am still waiting for my refund after shipping them back. Another lazy ebay seller who won't change their listings I suspect. Typical BAIT & SWITCH!

Just last month I had to replace my front springs, struts, ball joints and strut mounts. Just happened to have 2 Mevotech strut mounts on the shelf from Sept 2023. Was driving on 55_ mph highway here and the RH mount failed completely, losing control of the steering in LH turns and making a loud knocking noise throughout the car. None of this would've been done but some a-hole stole my 87 GL, czny, from where it was parked on my property, went on a "joy ride" thru my and my north neighbor's property, then left it kinda parked in another spot on my property after breaking L strut spring, ruining front whl brgs, front cv boot, ball joints, rear Sach shocks, rear springs, rear cross member mounts and more. They had hit the front skid plate & tires hard enough to compress the unibody sheet metal back enough to push the engine & trans back, taking all end play out of the driveshaft! It still drives after repairs, but trans brgs are noisier now. Things will have to wait until after winter to R&R the engine & trans package to correct this. I have a spare d/r 5mt trans. Just when I thought things were driveable, a strut mount breaks! Found 2, 2 only, KYB mounts on RA so those are going on in next couple days so at least I have wheels for the winter. Mevotech strut order You'd think someone here in rural Montana would realize they could get shot for stealing a car, but then there's meth heads around here too. Smoked out meth heads whose moral compass came out of a box of Crackerjacks.

Dirt or brake dust between caliper piston and seal. Small burrs on flared line ends(polish ends with fine scotchbrite in circular motion). Rearmost master cyl piston seal sucking air thru vac booster. Cracked line inside the unibody from a accident - a real stretch if this. Bad crimp on flex line end. Damaged or missing copper washer at caliper banjo bolt. That's all I got. Good luck and so long.

Sometimes, leaks are air only. Air molecules are smaller than brake fluid ones.

When you deleted the hill holder, did you use a 10x1.00 mm inverted flare union or a bubble flare one? Flared ends on Subies are inverted flare, like Toyota. You could be sucking air at the union(?)

Did you look up the ABS brake bleed procedure, IF that Forester has ABS? https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/abs-pump-activation-bleeding-brakes.502561/

I've used something similar to bleed - a small hose with a check valve at the end. Far cheaper than vacuum bleeders etc. They're called one man bleeders. In my experience with Subaru master cylinders, it takes 6-8 pumps before you need to refill. Press the pedal slowly down, then slowly up so you don't draw more air back in. After closing bleeder, check your pedal for firmness or sponginess & sinking. Rinse & repeat as needed until firm & holding well.

IF you are in an area with freezing winter fog, freezing rain or winter mix, you may not want LED headlights. They don't produce enough heat to keep them clear of ice, reducing light output. I used to have LED headlights until I discovered that problem and changed back to halogen.

I attempted to have Damitzon send correct parts twice only. Both times they screwed things up & there was a far too distant delivery date. Their search algorithms suck, plain and simple. Save yourself the headache and stress.

Mizumo sells Mitsuboshi timing belt kits on fleabay that include Aisin tensioners. Check the tensioner for hydraulic fluid loss around the lip seal on top of tensioner. Always a good idea to change belt, idlers & tensioner while there. Cheap insurance against bent valves! Save your money and just buy ATF Dexron/Mercon cheap at a local store like North 40 in 2 gal jugs. Do a flush by draining the fluid then refilling, drive for 100 miles then drain & refill again. Do this 3 times. Don't take it out of Park until you're sure it's refilled to cold low mark while idling. Get yourself 3 one gallon milk or juice jugs, cleaned and dried out. Pour the first draining into one jug to gauge how much to put into the second jug for refilling the trans before starting the engine to check oil level cold. Saves a lot of time filling, checking level, etc when flushing the trans. Any additive that causes seals to swell is a bad idea.

Search the Eastwood website for how to videos on prep & paint plus other info. https://www.eastwood.com/garage/ They should also have metalprep solution for bare metal. Check your VIN plate for a paint code or some other sticker with that code for color match. Take that code to a local auto body supply for mixing a quart if that's all you need. Learn by doing.

In the 70's we used Alumalead or Tigerhair fillers for that sort of rust repairs. Those fillers are long gone now but Eastwood does market some similar fillers for rusted panels, but it's all in the prep beforehand to make it last. Back up the larger holes with some fiberglass cloth & resin if needed to hold the filler, if you can get to it. Again, it's all in the prep just like painting. https://www.eastwood.com/ew-contour-alum-repair-compound-25-3-oz.html https://www.eastwood.com/usc-all-metal-2-1-lb.html