czny

There is no center differential - in 4 hi/lo its locked front & rear. You don't need 4wd on pavement or hard packed ground. It will torque bind then. Are you sure the rear diff is 3.90 ratio? Look for a decal on cover. Try shifting out of 4wd in 1st at slow speed.

Here are similar 4 ft'ers: https://www.ruralking.com/4-led-shop-light-5500-lumens?trk_msg=LOJC4K3P74RKJECJNG73V27R9S&trk_contact=E8JCHBIQHA1A29S9VMGK0VU9US&trk_sid=PLKD7MS0MULMETQIPDK531SOHO&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=27100054&utm_campaign=January+2019&utm_content=2019-01-26+Hardware

Look at page 10 in this pdf..........its been asked many many times. The info is out there in the ethernet. http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/mroseusa/EA2EJ.pdf

Get yourself a set of transfer punches - useful for hole alignment any time before drilling. https://www.amazon.com/HHIP-8600-0041-Piece-Transfer-Punch/dp/B01ADBNEJE/ref=asc_df_B01ADBNEJE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13749367472588581549&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031106&hvtargid=pla-451461872588&psc=1 Knock controls for drag racing can get pricey for knock retard. This one was about $600 in 2008: http://www.jandssafeguard.com/NewUniversal/UniversalVersion.html If you have an analog (needle) ohmmeter you could test your idea by waving that reluctor past the pickup to get an idea of where your 'sweet spot' is.

Carbide tipped drill bits are less money. Low RPM with lots of pressure & no cutting lube needed. There are spiral flute taps available for hard materials. https://www.mcmaster.com/carbide-tipped-drill-bits Because these are small diameter screws, you might get by with a cobalt bit on low rpm with a drill-tap fluid. Then work slowly with a hand tap keeping your hands as steady as you can, also with fluid like Tap Magic. It's only two holes...........

Naru, You're right about those distrib caps for Nissan. What a cluster F of coil buttons etc inside. 8 plugs to foul & wires to go bad on an L4. Was wasting my time waiting for freight delivery of a new hood & rear bumper for my 73 Chevy Nova. Steptoe, Might be easier to find a later distrib to mod for that EA81T knock control(?) Those Subaru modules might be NOS somewhere......only a maybe.

Show us all your documentation if you really want to help. I say to you Naru - prove it! Until then here's more info for you Jono: https://www.yoyopart.com/oem/11184923/airtex-6h1250.html#interchange

1982-83 Nissan 200SX, (maybe?): These cross over to 88921540 not 88921685. who knows but the pinout may be in different order(?) https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=49874&cc=1208562&jsn=942 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1983,200sx,2.2l+l4,1208573,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172 1984 & up NA & turbo Nissan 200sx is same module as optical EA82, Std Prod #LX653. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Control-Module-WVE-BY-NTK-6H1206-fits-83-85-Nissan-720-2-4L-L4-/123276988099?hash=item1cb3e18ec3 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Control-Module-WVE-BY-NTK-6H1217-fits-83-85-Nissan-720-2-0L-L4-/263839904510?hash=item3d6e1572fe Maybe go look into the NGK/NTK search for crossover to 88921653...

Fuel hose was a stop-gap until I could get to NAPA store 35 mi away for real coolant hose. Fuel hose was all the big-box auto store had in stock. Adding loops or coils of extra length to avoid cracking works for auto oil pressure lines, production machinery lubrication lines. I was being facetious with 1/4" copper line thing...........;)

Had the same thing happen here a couple times. While intake manifold was out last time I replaced tube in block with 1/8 pipe 45* fitting & 1/4" barbedX1/8" pipe fitting + 1/4" barbedX1/8 pipe fitting in thermostat housing in place of tube. Used 1/4" fuel injection hose with screw clamps. Search, this fix was documented with pics here at USMB. What's next to bullet-proof it? 1/4" copper tubing with compression nuts & ferrules?

Had same thing happen to my 4wd 87 GL. Pulled back all the RH side interior carpet & pad, drilled out the nut, ground the inside surface flat-ish, then tack welded a rectangle of 3/8 steel plate to inner well inside. Prepped that plate beforehand with a countersunk hole for a flat head allen bolt long enough to reach thru all shock brackets. Secured with self-locking nut from wheel side. Painted to stop rust inside & out of course. Idea is to sandwich fender well sheet metal for more shear strength. Sorry but didn't get any pics when I did that work.

Well its too late now......already mounted a light bar on my 87 GL. My decision was based on my on road experiences with whitetail deer, elk & bighorn sheep at twilight & night time. Not on how much I could blind the next guy. I have rarely used it but when I did it was a great help seeing far enough ahead & to the road sides to avoid an accident in NW Montana. Lighten up Dan.

Those were sold by Dorman under the Motormite label. Notice the outline "M" between TAIWAN & the part number? Not everything Dorman is quality.........

Bennie, my readings are with factory gauge & sending unit only. Idle drops down to 10-15 psi fully hot. Enough psi to sustain hydraulic lifters, rods & mains. Will do a mechanical OP gauge when EJ it finally. My 182K mile EA82 is still running without ticks or knocks so I'll just get all the goodness out of it until I can park it behind my gate again to do the EJ swap. If it ain't broke...... " Mine has doubled in the past week; something is going on " kayakertom, had you done a reseal on the engine recently using silicone somewhere near an oil passage? Could be that some debris is hanging up the pressure regulator in oil pump maybe(?)

1) these EA GL gauges aren't very accurate and 2) my 87 GL reads same high when cold pressures, 65-70 on startup Pressure drops to 45 in cruise and stays about 40 psi at 3-3.5K rpm full hot after 2 hrs hwy running. Yours readings seem to be just fine to me.

What bronze alloy did you use for those synchros, 932(SAE660) alloy? Did you do those in a CNC machine center or lathe?

After putting insulation & drywall up first. And an overhead space heater or two.....

I like them fine. Wasn't enough room at one lamp socket because of rolling door bracket but 3 lamps are just fine. Before with std LED bulbs. Yeah, cellphone didn't focus well. Vapor from my breath in sub-freezing air confuses camera autofocus After, notice shadows are sharper. Will be hanging 4ft LED lights over work areas too - when I get my benches, machinery, welders & rollaways in place.

Mount CV by axle stub in soft jaws in a bench vise with cup upward. Gently pivot on two opposite balls by tapping on opposite edge of cage with hammer & brass or aluminum drift until you can pop out balls with small screwdriver. Then back other way to get other two. Lastly, rock out cage with last two balls by twisting & pulling. Clean thoroughly & reassemble same way after lubing lightly with fresh grease. Or squeeze remainder of grease packet thru center hole of inner race after assembling joint. Take note of scratches in inner & outer races. If balls appear scratched & grayish it may be too late to save the joint. Find another.

Did you get just the banding tool or a kit including bands? Bands only on fleabay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CV-AXLE-HALF-SHAFT-BOOT-BAND-IT-STYLE-BANDING-CLAMPS-Kit-/132892170666?hash=item1ef0fd99aa https://www.ebay.com/itm/CV-AXLE-HALF-SHAFT-BOOT-BAND-IT-STYLE-BANDING-CLAMPS-/261979950896?hash=item3cff38cf30

Looked at RA but not listed. Brake caliper O/H kits are listed w/such mfrs as Raybestos, EIS, Bendix & Carlson. Ford Courier, Mazda B1800 & B2000, Subaru DL use same caliper kits as 1982 Brat. Might be a cross-over PN in there somewhere. Carlson comes up NLA for guide pin kits. Happy hunting!

Could be the stakes holding the ign sw insulator together have come undone. IF your 82 switch is built similarly then it could be an easy fix. Daub a little JB weld in 3 places around the outside when you get done re-staking the shell on so it doesn't happen again. Had the same thing happen to me in my 87 GL. Shoot some contact cleaner in the switch too. See here: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/167527-no-power-to-the-ignition/

More reading with coil & wire diameters, lengths, etc https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/160035-ea81-strut-springs-difinitive-answer/

IIRC Nissan Sentra about 88 yr are close to right OD & relaxed 14 inch length to give a boost in ride height too. Although one more coil will limit travel a little. Those cc222 & 225 springs are all wrong - I mis-remembered.

Sandpoint ain't that far from Troy MT. You might read here too: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/119031-suspension-questions/ Can't remember what the latest Moog spring I tried was but I think it was either a CC222 or CC225. I'll have to search some for that info.