czny

More reading with coil & wire diameters, lengths, etc https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/160035-ea81-strut-springs-difinitive-answer/

IIRC Nissan Sentra about 88 yr are close to right OD & relaxed 14 inch length to give a boost in ride height too. Although one more coil will limit travel a little. Those cc222 & 225 springs are all wrong - I mis-remembered.

Sandpoint ain't that far from Troy MT. You might read here too: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/119031-suspension-questions/ Can't remember what the latest Moog spring I tried was but I think it was either a CC222 or CC225. I'll have to search some for that info.

From bottom edge of top hat to bottom edge of strut spring perch is 7 inches on my 87 GL. These are Monroe 4WD EA82 struts. Springs are Moog and I don't recall the part number. Here's the list in pdf. moog-spring.pdf

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150805-ea82-front-struts-fit-ea81/ I have a L & R pair of good used KYB FWD ea82 struts complete with springs & mounts you can have for price of shipping. I cut the brake line tab to make removal easier - just bend it back. PM your address & I would prefer PayPal if you have an account. (Lower 48 US states only - in case someone here asks.)

Yeah, higher the lumens the higher the price too. "Diamond plate" shop lights of advertised 10k lumen 4 footers: https://www.ruralking.com/4-led-shop-light-10-000l-chrome?utm_medium=email&utm_source=2018-10-07+Whats+Hot&utm_campaign=27100044&utm_contnet=27100044&_bta_tid=32259870115476410414092769077956769598026446718742119450761235058598424239696786977331067106111512431209 And advertised 4500 lumen 4 footers: https://www.ruralking.com/4-led-shop-light-4500-lumens?utm_medium=email&utm_source=2018-10-07+Whats+Hot&utm_campaign=27100023&utm_contnet=27100023&_bta_tid=00379131375476410414092769077956769598026446718742119450761235058598424239697096462340888451180237212265 I'm betting I'll still need drop lights for under carriage work with these aging eyes. Ha ha!

Some comparative figures for you https://greatercea.org/lightbulb-efficiency-comparison-chart/

It'll be a couple weeks before I can try them out. I'll try to get before & after pics - if I still remember to.

Needed some better lighting for my new garage. As it yet only has 4 overhead screw-in lamps, opted to upgrade to these: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200679033_200679033?cm_mmc=Housefile-_-RECEIVED-_-707-_-CONF

Drum brakes should always be adjusted first before bleeding, as I surmise you just found out. Adjust & try again Dee. Tighten until they're locked up then back off until they drag lightly. By the time you get done here you'll qualify for your NIASE patch on your service jacket....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MXW2EM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 While you may not be seeing air when you get back to each wheel, air could be rising up the bleeder hose & remain trapped in caliper/whl cyl on last up stroke of brake pedal.

You did use a check valve type brake bleeder at the wheels, right? Try bleeding the MC this way then..with all MC lines tight but no too tight, crack one front line loose at the MC then allow it to gravity bleed until fluid is dripping. Then tighten that line. Go to one rear line, crack it loose at the MC & allow it to gravity bleed until it is dripping. Tighten all MC lines. Now go to each wheel in criss-cross pattern & bleed them. Do all your bleeding with the engine off - no booster so you can get a solid feeling pedal first. You must have a solid pedal with no vacuum boost first or its pointless. Other things to check: Pull down your lower kick panels & check out the clevis pin in brake pedal lever & the brake rod. Look for loose/worn parts. While you've got the dash panel down check out firewall to see if fluid had leaked down inside the cabin.

Worked for me. Used the free download with sign in. No problem. Some pics of your left thumb too And thank you for doing this.

Looks to be a common problem on those CRXs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/88-91-HONDA-CRX-Si-Driver-Left-Rear-Interior-Trim-Side-Panel-sms/132781334941?hash=item1eea62619d:g:pbIAAOSwDYBbnCcH $125! Ouch!

Might be able to reinforce the backside with some 1/4" or finer mesh screen then apply your bonding epoxy. Use some clips to hold everything in place then bond it. https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50139-Plastic-Adhesive/dp/B01IBOK7FE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538053852&sr=8-3&keywords=jb+weld+for+plastic

Not no, just undecided if........ How else are you gonna share this? Google drive? Dropbox? Etc? Dropbox free acct has a 2 GB limit.

This term, CVT, had me scratching my head so I searched: Now that I've seen it I can't help but think of old machinery vari-speed drives married with silent chain instead of a wide rubber v-belt. Twisting & bending torque on that CVT belt must mean its a wear service item along with those pulleys. Vari-speed has been around for decades. How do I know of variable speed drives - production metal turning & milling machines. http://www.lovejoy-inc.com/products/variable-speed-drives.aspx You'd think they could've put that internal filter element in a more convenient spot........

Glad you could make it back. Take good care of your Mom. Mine was bedridden from 2004 to 2011 when she passed.

Good day & welcome to USMB. Another, err, 'heavyweight of horror' saying "good evening".

Especially when old brake hoses skive layers internally leading to a bulge. Lose pedal firmness when this happens then later on they burst. Definitely helps speed things up with a pedal operator behind the wheel. Then can pump it up a few times, hold down pedal hard & blow last of air out at the bleeders.

Method 2 for bleeding: Install the M/C & connect all lines tight, but not too tight. Fill M/C resevoir to top line. Crack all connecting lines loose 1/4 turn. Go inside & pump the brakes slowly full strokes for 6-8 pumps. Go refill M/C & do it again until you can hear fluid squirting. Tighten up the lines then go thru bleeding at the wheels with a check valve bleeder tool into a soda bottle with some brake fluid in it. Fluid in bottle is to keep bleed tool from sucking air back up into system. LF whl 1st, RR whl 2nd, RF whl 3rd, LR whl 4th, until no more air. May take a big bottle of fluid to get it done. One man operation. Done it for years this way. Just for giggles, check your brake proportioning valve under the car for leaks. DS under the back seat area. My 87 GL valve leaked so had to improvise with aftermarket proportioning valves up front in engine compartment. See my czny member car build.

NAPA bench bleed video: Beck-Arnley products are generally good choice: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=485051&cc=1270055&jsn=372 Raybestos is usually my first choice: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=309748&cc=1270055&jsn=381 Get a bleeding kit from NAPA or HF with universal fittings x 2, cheap clip set & a cheap wire separator set & make your own bleeder setup.

Do 97 ej22 mechanical rocker assys use the same spring washers?

Yes, there's supposed to be a plug in there with a metal sealing washer. Look at your passenger side to give you an idea what it looks like, if its there.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/R-12-Refrigerant-3-National-R-12-Can-Usa-made-genuine-12oz-Can/222647142150?epid=0&hash=item33d6cdc706:g:l9oAAOSwj9dZvXqR If its all leaked out, find the leak with dye & a black light, fix it. Then remove the compressor, drain the mineral oil & refill it with fresh oil before you recharge it with R-12. Four Seasons website has fill capacities for oil & R12. Oils can hold contaminants in suspension for a long time.