czny

Clockwise one full turn looking from grill end at the engine. Running engine rotates clockwise looking from grill so tension on belt is from crank pulley to bottom of oil pump across idler to cam sprocket. Drivers side belt has slack top - tension bottom. Its talked about in this thread recently:

Google this: ultimatesubaru/frankenmotor Start reading then take two aspirin & call us in the morning....

Noticed that that crank angle sensor had such a wide range of makes & models for application when I hunted for a replacement too. Standard Motor Products #LX-653. http://ecatalog.smpcorp.com/STD/#/vehicles Looks like in a pinch a good used one could be found.

Get an Exedy or Luk clutch for 4wd, 225 mm dia., have the flywheel resurfaced & the FW register for the clutch cover cut so depth is 0.810 inch for lots of clutch pressure for those big tires. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4696989&cc=1270112&jsn=372 And while you're there replace the FW seal. Check your engine mounts too. Spongy mounts don't help. Just a thought....... are you sure you didn't overtighten the clutch cable? There should be about 1.5 inch freeplay at top of pedal travel.

That's what it sounds like to me also: " I’ve got an ‘87 Gl with a 4” lift and bigger tires. Ea81 and Webber carb. I’ve been having a hard time accelerating from a stop. It also looses all power going up hill, freeway and just in town. My rpms are there, but the car isn’t moving hardly at all. I believe this issue started just before I inherited it from my friend 6 months ago. Since then I have replaced the fuel filters, done an oil change, and that’s about it. Last week the bushings on my clutch cable disentigrated causing the cable to loosen. I didn’t replace the bushing but did tighten the cable back up with just the tensioning bolts. " 4" lift + bigger tires + clutch cable problem + feathering clutch a lot to get going might = slipping clutch later on.

Try pushing in the clutch pedal part way while accelerating. If you don't feel much difference the clutch disc may be worn so thin that the clutch doesn't engage/lock up fully.

Check your PM inbox Craigar. Oil pump is on its way - ETA Saturday. You may be pleasantly surprised at the extras. Good luck!

I'm in process of moving to Montana after living in Azusa CA area for 25+ yrs. A remote place isolated from main hwys & 16 miles from a small town. Nice people & nice area. I checked out eastern OR like around La Grande or Baker, rural farming communities. But I didn't like the direction OR is going - emissions wise, socially or 2nd amendment wise. Too much like Commiefornia. But then there is a meth problem everywhere these days......... Still tying up loose ends down here while wishing I was up there already. I keep a .68 cal C02 paintball pistol loaded with hard rubber balls, which may not keep me out of jail but being nonlethal may not get as much jail time in Cacafornica. As to disabling your car, look for that 12 volt guy circuit to stop car thieves. No blinking alarm light to alert the GTA wannabe. I added a glass breakage sound sensor to my DEI alarm for added warning. Tapping a key hard against the glass sets it off.

I already had an LSD diff under my GL(bought it from a member here) but some guy had stopped at my house & tried to con me out of it. He wanted it for his 510 Datsun sedan. Bad vibes from that guy. That made me nervous for awhile - that I'd find my car disabled one morning. Shortly thereafter found that GL in a PNP yard many miles away. Had time to recall that 88 GL, which was a blue metallic GL-10, car had the darker decals on lower part of the doors, etc. Found it at Pick-A-Part Ontario CA, but by the time I got there the rear diff cover was lying underneath the car & diff was missing. Found the diff housing & ring gear about 100 yds away stripped of the LSD. Like the guy was hunting for someone with an impact to remove the ring gear bolts. Deduced that 2 + 2 = LSD in a 510 Datsun.

Not all GL-10's. I searched for LSDs when i find them. Odd thing is, found one in a 88 GL with pushbutton FT 4WD once.

Not Superpro but some of us here used Toy leaf spring bushings like these cut down to fit the arms: https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-8-2105G-Spring-Bushing/dp/B000CNB3FQ You'd have to make steel sleeves with heavy wall tubing but its doable. Just split the difference in length for cutting bushings.

Well that would've been nice to know..........there's a rev sensor in the circuit for fuel pump & I don't know where that is. Search function does work tho.... I'm out.

IF yours is spfi it will be mounted on a bracket held with one screw to a dash support behind the instrument cluster. BUT you can get at it by removing the plastic panels on between steering wheel & foot pedals, then lowering your ECM(3 12 mm nuts hold this in place) to get at the screw. Fuel pump relay is the round one - Intermotor(SMP) part # RY51. Don't confuse that one with 4 relays on back of dash above fuse panel. They are interchangeable though. If yours is carbureted someone else will have to chime in.

" Lucky fella with photo allowance ! Thanks CZNY " Not a photo allowance here at USMB, jono........a photo allowance on host site. As to that cable in LHD cars, there has to be a huge "S" shape to it as installed to go from LH drivers side foot to clutch fork right?

MY 87 ea82 spfi fuel pump relay(Std Mtr Prod # RY51) is located above ECM alongside ignition relay(Std Mtr Prod # RY56). Both mounted to same bracket held with 1 screw after moving ECM out of way. Relay contacts can & do fry lowering voltage thru contacts.

'87 EA82 GL wagon clutch cable: 33 5/8 inches from clevis end to tip of threaded end.

Did you get your money back on that first "correct" compressor? Something wrong with the one I sent you Subarule? It felt like it would make pressure to me turning it over by hand.

Quick search didn't find the same ones I used. But maybe on Amazon or fleabay you might. Here's one result on fleabay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hella-008284811-FF75-Series-Driving-Fog-Light/231668201798 Gotta keep those mounted close in to body if under front bumper,......... PM sent.

Don't know if it makes any difference but when rebooting axles I make a mark on outside of outer CVJ where one of 6 balls are then align inner DOJ race same way before finishing assembly. Unless the axle shaft is too stubborn, I remove them from outer CVJ before clean & pack with fresh grease. Slip axle shaft into 4 ft of 1 1/4 inch pipe with end of pipe firmly against inner race then slam other end of pipe against solid ground or thick plywood. Just make sure c-ring on axle is OK before putting axle shaft back in. And you can go in too far if aggressive. Axles seem to run smother this way, at least they do for me.

Tucson AZ trip for weekend. Spent time with sister & brother in law from Friday to Tuesday early AM. Went to Kartchner Caverns AZ state park. We did tour of "Throne room" & "Rotunda room" - almost 100% humidity & approx 72*F. No cellphone nor cameras are allowed in caves. No multiple layers of clothing are needed to keep warm in that. They'll be changing over to LED lighting to help keep heat down. Bats were in another chamber. Neat stuff. https://azstateparks.com/kartchner/ Tried out 180W curved light bar in eastern Tucson. Outstanding. Rear 27W work light is just enough too.

That 'no it won't' wasn't directed at you jono. I was typing out while you were posting. It was purely timing coincidence.

Could be blower resistor triple in bottom of heater/AC blower on R side. Check bottom 2 15 amp fuses on LH side of fuse panel too. However, if its like my GL some contacts in fan speed switch have fried.

Nice roadside tech there jono.

No it won't. That 25 spline is for turbo EA82s like GL-10s. You need to find used OEM 95AC-23 axles & reboot them. Look for the 3 bands at outer end of axle shaft when hunting. And ribbed inner joint. Search PNW pick-n-pull yards for 86 to 94 NA GL or Loyale axles. There's a PNP in Salt Lake City if you're still in Utah. http://www.picknpull.com/locations.aspx http://row52.com/home My 87 GL wagon is a 5mt part time 4wd d/r like yours.

On my spfi 87 wagon, one by steering shaft below booster is evap, other two above to booster are supply & return.