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@DaveT: You mean NGK? https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=20678

For wires, United Motor Products 9427: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1110849&cc=1268478&jsn=2

If these videos are any help then good:

Been awhile since I had posted in this thread. Started another image hosting acct. to repair damage done by greedy Photobucket. Everywhere you go in internet auto land you'll see their wreckage. Added 32 inch light bar to roof because deer & elk happen fast in NW MT at night. Mounted light bar to roof with rivnuts & 1.5 inch aluminum angle to stiffen roof & add support for light bar. Light bar is advertised as 180 W & when on it drops charging voltage only 0.2V, so not too worried. Added a single round 27 W LED light to roof rack in rear for work light. Sand blasted aluminum angle & painted with OD green self etching primer. Allen bolt is 8 mm & philips screws are 1/4-20 for lots of shear in thin roof metal. Sealed to roof with Dow Corning 832 silicone adhesive sealant. Steel rivnuts set into roof beforehand, of course. Added spare tire mount, high lift jack & shovel mounts to roof rack too.

Diaphragm clutches sometimes crack radially - crack from center to outer edge of diaphragm spring. Over time the friction disc wears unevenly causing inconsistent disengagement - one time the clutch cover plate lines up parallel with friction disc & flywheel, another time it doesn't. A hit or miss alignment. Some import clutch mfrs are notorious for short lived clutches. Their diaphragm springs are not QC'ed well.

Well then early Porsche 356 engines are ridiculous too........ I seem to recall that oversize oil pumps were available for VW cases just to cure case leakage problems. I lost count of how many VW engines I built in the 70s & 80s. Lost a few gray cells too Of course air cooled VW engines had & still have a huge following so aftermarket products are/were in abundance. https://www.jbugs.com/product/5002.html Could a custom bridge puller be used ?

If removal of oil pump is anything like VW type1-3 engines, it really helps to loosen the case bolts near oil pump before removal. EA engines would be the same I think. Case halves pinch around body of the oil pump.

It would help us all if we knew what model '87', carb or spfi, EA81 or EA82 engine to understand what wiring harness it has.

Look into the ignition switch as well. Recently had the ignition switch stakes loosen causing switch to come apart slightly, separating start-run contacts inside switch. Symptoms were exactly what you described - fully charged battery, jump start battery, checked starter by jumping solenoid to pos term & engine turns over. But won't start with ign sw. Only a few clicks then nothing. And yes battery terminals/cables were clean. Gently hold it together with shop rag in a vise & punch the 3 stakes a little tighter. Operative word here is gently to not crack the plastic insulator. Easy peasy. Ignition switch is easy to get to. Only held into column lock assy with one screw. You can see how the brown switch insulator has moved away from the shell in this photo.

Been thinking about adding one to my 87 GL wagon but like all things sales on fleabay, the sales claims are fantastical. Stated another way they are fantasy to 'dazzle' the buyer. Pun intended. Here's a discussion link: https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2615725

Voltmeter in my 87GL has been 'off' for some time now & I know for a fact that the Nissan Maxima alternator is putting out between 13.9 & 14.5 V, depending on state of battery charge when engine starts. Decided to use the space occupied by a clock that wouldn't keep time for something useful. Found a digital surface mount voltmeter made by Stinger products & a cheap USB port online. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stinger-Pro-SVMB-12v-Voltmeter-3-Digit-Blue-LED-Voltage-Meter-Display-Gauge/142134595191?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Made a plate of 11 ga aluminum, painted with self-etching OD green primer & mounted to dash pad with 6-32 brass nut inserts & SS screws, coarse thread wood nut insert found at Ace hardware stores. May as well had an idiot light as this useless inaccurate voltmeter. Closeup of USB charging ports & voltmeter. Hard to capture voltmeter fluorescent display without flickering. Didn't quite get the plate in square but for now its OK. Have another dash pad in better condition that I'll use when I EJ it & add A/C. Used the old pigtail from digital clock to connect these into system. Ideal as there's all the circuits I need in clock branch of wiring - ignition on, battery hot & ground.

This may help with dizzy wiring

One edge of the belt could be slightly shorter than the other forming a taper. Might've been out of alignment when ends were bonded. "Might" just stretch to shape later. Mi(gh)te is a small irritating insect. ;^) +1 for what Dave T said.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-Standard-TH331-fits-88-92-Isuzu-Pickup-2-6L-L4/292661797038?fits=Year%3A1989|Make%3AIsuzu|Model%3ATrooper|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.6L&epid=693046037&hash=item442400a0ae:g:rDoAAOSwCpRbH4M4 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-Standard-TH333-fits-88-91-Isuzu-Trooper-2-6L-L4/292661797201?fits=Year%3A1989|Make%3AIsuzu|Model%3ATrooper|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.6L&epid=1623083097&hash=item442400a151:g:vVoAAOSwJqNbJOjO https://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-BECK-ARNLEY-158-0505-fits-88-92-Isuzu-Pickup-2-6L-L4/283073257056?fits=Year%3A1989|Make%3AIsuzu|Model%3ATrooper|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.6L&epid=76463845&hash=item41e87b1e60:g:aJ0AAOSw7m9bG2IT

Ya know, when stock on items RockAuto dwindles down because they are out of production, RockAuto jacks up the prices. I have seen it happen recently with Subaru efi fuel pumps. Bet you can find those Standard Prod or other brand TPSes elsewhere for less - like I did for the Subaru distributor optical pickups. Products may be plain boxed or unboxed bulk, but they are same stuff to the core.

Have you looked at some of late 80s Isuzu models like i-Mark or Trooper for TPSes? 1989 2.6L L4 Trooper https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1002856&cc=1177310&jsn=415 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/isuzu,1989,trooper,2.6l+l4,1177310,fuel+&+air,throttle+position+sensor+(tps),5136

spfi tps: Hitachi SERA484-2 1Z1_ , Can't read last digit on my old tps.

Here's some tips for rebuilding your EA82 optical distributor. I've had the optical pickup crap out causing bucking while accelerating before. Not fun when your far from home. And embarrassing cause you look like a stick shift NOOB. First remove 2 screws & dust cover for optical pickup. Then remove center screw. Remove upper retainer then disc being careful not to bend it. Remove locating tabbed disc & spring washer with "D" hole in it. "T" shaped optical disc retainer is a slip fit on shaft. Might have to use a very small 2 jaw puller if gummed up like mine was. Once "T" retainer is out of the way remove 3 screws retaining optical pickup. Note orientation of two tabs & alignment of hole in distrib driven gear. Hole must line up with nub on bottom of distrib + LH tab in uppermost pic pointing toward optical pickup. Note that there is a nub on side of distributor above mounting flanges & it aligns with nub at bottom. Alignment hole is to left of my thumb at right angle to pin punch. Remove bottom connector from distrib body(2 screws) & pry gently with screwdriver if needed. Remove 3 retaining screws from optical module & lift it out. Upper distrib shaft brg is retained with 2 screws with captive washers. Remove driven gear spring pin (be careful not to lose it - its odd sized metric) & pull gear off. Press shaft out from bottom. Had to retap mine to 6-32 thread because old hardware was pretty corroded & stripped the threads in aluminum distrib body. Bottom shaft brg is a bushing so just need a little oil. Upper brg is Nachi 6200-2NSE9: https://www.ebay.com/itm/6200-2NSE9-NACHI-bearing-6200-2NSE-seals-6200-2RS-bearings-6200-RS-Japan/131652289255?hash=item1ea71682e7:g:MpYAAOSwvt1WR23i Optical pickup is Standard Motor Products LX-653. Can be had here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-LX-653-Distributor-Ignition-Pickup-FITS-NISSAN-SUBARU-INFINITY-MERCURY/262568795460?fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item3d2251dd44:g:ObUAAOSww4NXqNFE "Exploded" hardware pic Tabbed drive disc, optical shutter disc only fit on one way so there's slim chance of misalignment. BUT distrib driven gear hole must be aligned with nub & LH tab in upper disc toward optical pickup head.

Scanned that from my Haynes book but Brother scanner has hinged lid to it. No choice in book orientation so just rotate it twice with view button at top of Adobe Reader. Referring to 1st Haynes tps adj page for US spfi: 4 pin tps - A & B conns are off-idle switch. C is wiper & D is V input. This I know from checking mine on spfi body.

Yeah, when something gets this complicated its easy to get confused as to where to go next. Because I was without wheels this had my full attention.

For the last 3 weeks I've been battling a cluster eff of symptoms most here would think are related to failing sensors, injection or other. And there were no CEL or codes stored(!!!) Things replaced or checked in order Replaced efi fuel pump & filter. Pump had died in mid July. Blew air thru suction line to clear any junk on fuel tank strainer - nothing Checked evap cannister & fuel tank purge lines - good. Checked evap sol valve - good. Replaced plugs, cap & rotor, spark plug wires, coil. Replaced optical sensor in distrib & upper 6200 sealed ball brg. Needed optical sensor as there was corrosion inside distrib. Brg was 'crunchy' Replaced MAF sensor - twice. Once with unknown used one & once with "reman" Cardone MAF. Waiting for known good genuine Hitachi MAF to arrive. Then will put "Car-do-nay" on shelf as spare Checked CTS - good. Pulled apart air cleaner & snorkel under fender to check for obstruction - good Rebuilt SPFI throttle body & checked TPS for dead spots - good Checked front cat, rear cat & muffler for obstructions. Replaced rear cat for general principle as it was a 8 yr old aftermarket Magnaflow CA legal cat. Added an O2 sensor bung ahead of new cat for 96 EJ efi conversion. My 87 4wd GL was bucking-cutting out randomly. Stalling after starting. Losing power at top end in any gear. Got to point of being undriveable. I have no room in driveway right now(of course) to Ej it otherwise I would have. Will have to wait until I have space to work. Car is registered in MT so it is exempt. Yay! After replacing the rear cat & getting no where I stopped for the night to test drive again in morning. Glad I did. Started with difficulty. stalling a few times until it ran with coaxing from me using throttle pedal - a lot of coaxing. As I was getting in driver's seat, I hit the lower dash panel. Then it died. AHA!!!!! Pulled down panels. Started digging into the wiring to look for loose connections but found none. Pulled down ECM & swapped in my backup ECM. Replaced ignition & fuel pump relays above ECM mount while I was there(had ordered them a week before just in case). Started engine with no problem & no stalling. IAC behaved normally raising idle to warm up. As I was lifting ECM back in place the engine died again. Hmmm. Started checking further into wiring. Found that there was corrosion in sensor connector - the translucent white connector with all the shielded sensor wiring. All sensor wires go thru there. Cleaned the contacts.Then repeatedly put conn together & pulled it apart a few times to 'wipe away' the corrosion. Put ECM back in mount bracket. Went for test drive. Runs better than it has in months. I can recall some hesitation, loss of power & etc when I came back from MT. This must've been it all along. Anyone else mystified by a long long list of things checked or replaced with no positive result ought to look under the dash at sensor connector(its next to rectangular gray diode to left of ECM) & ECM connector corrosion. Look to the engine bay harness for corrosion too. Any intermittent connection in harness would replicate the symptoms we associate with clogged cats, failing ignition, failing injector, failing MAF, etc. Enough to drive you nuts............. Happy hunting!

MPFI throttle sw from Haynes manual........ MPFI throttle sw.pdf

Here's an old thread that has some pinout info: I seem to remember another thread suggesting a Isuzu i-Mark TPS as a substitute but has to be hard-wired in. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10064896&cc=1176049&jsn=542 Looks like AutoZone carries that sensor in Wells TPS4085: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-WELLS-TPS4085-fits-1989-Isuzu-I-Mark-1-5L-L4/272695884528 My Calif 87 GL is 3 plug ECM with 4 pin TPS, just like the jpg I posted in this thread linked here: Good luck jono!

Subarule & all, Compressor & brackets with hardware bubble/peanut packed in a Large USPS flat rate box weighs 26lbs 8 oz. Measured at the post office with their scales. Everything fits in that large box if disassembled.