czny

Does anyone here have the dealer installed EA82 A/C? The install with compressor outboard of the alternator? Some closeup pics might help differentiate between edge discharge port & rear discharge port units. Cleaned up the MJS compressor in a water based solvent tank - with ports plugged of course. Pulled the plugs, turned it over by hand a few times & its making compression OK. Inverted it & some dark oil(Suniso R12 oil) came out so Subarule may want to drain all oil & refill with fresh mineral oil. It may be cheaper to go back to R12 than convert everything to R134. Or one of the hydrocarbon R12 substitutes. Turn compressor upside down with discharge port lowest & turn over by hand until all old oil is pushed out. Turn right side up, insert small funnel in suction port & add measured amount of oil, turning over by hand again. 4.00 oz of mineral oil for R12. 28.0 oz of R12. Read here: https://www.aa1car.com/library/retrofit.htm and here: https://www.aa1car.com/library/tr497.htm

Dan, it looks just like the lower used one with brackets attached in your picture. If you still have that one you could maybe unbolt the rear cover & turn the discharge port to up position where it belongs(?) If you don't want to void the warranty then tell the rebuilder what orientation the ports must be in.

Corner marker lights with pigtails, headlight buckets, headlight retainers & hardware, grill, lower headlight valance pieces & valance. Relays plus 4 headlight connectors. Some wire of course. Suppose you could get the complete front harness & do it that way. Wired mine so LED low beam is outers only, LED high beam is outers & halogen inners, fog lights are halogen inner low beam + fogs with separate switch. Was lucky enough to find an OEM fog light switch at a PNP yard. Headlight switch in turn signal assembly activates relays that are powered directly from fused battery source under hood.

Here's all the USUAL flat rate envelopes & boxes: https://www.usps.com/ship/priority-mail.htm There some other sizes behind the counters if these don't work for you. You must ask for them. If you want the one I have I can clean it up & packed in that same medium flat rate box you see in the above pics. It'll survive with some reinforced tape etc. If you wish, PM me your address & we'll figure out the money for shipping. That MJS compressor I have here does have a working clutch(energized it several times) & turns over freely with clutch engaged. Suction & discharge ports were plugged all the time I've had it. May still have some Suniso oil for R12 still in it too.

Please stop helping my effort to help the OP. .....lol Here's a pic or two of that MJS compressor in a MEDIUM flat rate box. You can clearly see the model number in first pic. You also see the box isn't distorted in the second pic. Sorry guys & gals. Needed more attachment space here for future post(s). But it is true - MJS compressor will fit in medium USPS flat rate box. Compressor & all brackets will fit in large flat rate box.

The comp I have here is a MJS170 6DP, 2 groove pulley. 5 sided(pentagonal) rear discharge cover. Minus the pulse pickup & bracket. Tested the clutch & its good. Let me know & if not I'll put it up for adoption in the parts section. Matsushita = Panasonic.

Let's see if I can fit it in a large flat rate USPS Priority box. I'll have to disassemble the brackets but bubble wrap the A/C compressor.

Here's some more part numbers for future reference: https://www.gates.com/us/en/ymm/search/vehicle/result?equipment-clazz=Passenger+Cars+%26+Light+Trucks&vehicle-type=Passenger+Cars&year=1987&make=Subaru&model=GL&engine=4-Cyl.+1.8+L BTW, found a 86 GL A/C compressor , dual pulley clutch, with bracket & idler pulley in my storage shed. Forgot that that was in there. Anyone's for price of shipping from my old address in zip 91010. PM me if interested.

No. I meant a basin wrench like you use to tighten/loosen undersink water lines for a sink faucet like these: https://www.google.com/search?q=basin+wrench&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=Rxdvy-isn1leKM%3A%2C1gC7kxgA4VaVxM%2C_&usg=AFrqEzcSjNyYUP9HHoOieYx1O8iTOXvkJA&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=2ahUKEwjpyP3S1tzcAhWGQ5AKHSHsB6IQ9QEwEnoECAMQCg#imgrc=Rxdvy-isn1leKM: Any Ace or TrueValue hardware stores would have them. Or Homeless Depot, etc. These wrenches allow you to turn nuts at right angles from a distance. Like up underneath a bathroom or kitchen sink. Also handy for twisting a stubborn hose loose deep in a mess of hoses etc. where your hands don't fit.

If you can borrow or have one, a plumbers basin wrench could give you enough grip & leverage to twist that dipstick loose. Long reach too. I too can empathize with the arthritis handicap. On generic celebrex &/or Alleve for it myself.

Found this while reading today:

If by air sensor you mean the MAF sensor attached to the air cleaner, then yes it could cause stalling, engine starts-revs-to-2000-then-dies, bucking while driving. My 87 is doing that right now. Waiting on a reman MAF sensor as I've already done or checked everything else. MAF was original - 32 yrs.

Companies like that don't like it when the feds are called about consumer complaints, but hey, that's what the FTC is there for: https://www.ftc.gov/ There's a time limit I believe so don't let it pass you by.

Likewise here & my 87 GL sees long stretches of hwys thru current 100+ temps in desert areas. Running a dual brass core radiator & mindful of those pesky faults of an EA82. Such as the small bypass hoses & heater hoses that are often overlooked. Another is thoroughly purging the air out of the system. A must for any liquid cooled engine. Any of those quick cures like Alumaseal can spell the end of a radiator when tubes get clogged with that junk. For my rig the temp gauge stays just below center of range most of the time.

http://offroadingsubarus.com/headlight-relay-modification/ Daniel Stern Lighting.pdf Binder1.pdf

Here's one I made from tool steel yrs ago. Make handle approx 16" OAL with 3" dia. head, 1" wide handle, 1/2" flat stock with 1.375" hole thru round head of handle. Turn round stock to 2.437 OD x 2.062 ID x .250 depth, drill 1.062 hole thru center then mill 4 'teeth' to .250 width, hair over .750" apart to fit nut. Weld this hub to handle. Weld the 2 pieces together with 'teeth' at approx 20* angle to handle. Fit over axle stub engaging nut & apply BFH to loosen nut. Subaru rear axle brg wrench.pdf

Wouldn't cost you much to add that belt then try it again. Maybe A/C stopped cooling because the old belt left the scene on the road somewhere in the past. Inner belt may be a Continental 17386 or Dayco 17385. Outer belt may be a Continental 17450 or Dayco 17451. O'Reilly has similar part numbers.

I noticed from your 1st & 3rd pics that you're not running the 2nd belt on A/C compressor. If you're trying to get work out of that compressor it has to have the 2nd belt driving it. Or is that compressor seized so you left the belt off?

I've bought 3 rebuilt compressors from this outfit for 3 different auto brands all with good results. They may have what you need. Either Matsushita or Hitachi, they have a lot of cores. https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Compressor-1988-1989-Subaru-Dl-Gl-Gl10-1-8l-Used-57496-/381569928173?vxp=mtr&hash=item58d7570bed https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Compressor-1988-1989-Subaru-GL-DL-GL10-1-8L-1year-Warranty-R57496-/380351355955?vxp=mtr&hash=item588eb51c33 https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Compressor-Subaru-Brat-DL-GL-GL-10-Loyale-1-year-Warranty-R57453-/380476766163?vxp=mtr&hash=item58962eb7d3

McMaster-Carr part number: 4936K408 https://www.mcmaster.com/#bspt-to-npt-pipe-fitting-adapters/=1dyf6ni

Only aftermarket TPS by Standard Motor Products is P/N TH281, which is being sold on fleabay for wallet gouging prices. Well over the $300 mark. Except this seller: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-94360849-0-Throttle-Position-Sensor-TH281-fits-Subaru-DL-GL-GL10-RX-1987/112369023682?epid=756695432&hash=item1a29b73ac2%3Ag%3ALZsAAOSwls5Y7uJ8&_sacat=0&_nkw=TH281+&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

IF this is a EA82 SOHC then starter solenoid contacts are same as for 20R & 22R Toyota truck starter. Starter rotation direction is difference between the two brands Subaru & Toyota. https://www.ebay.com/itm/STARTER-REPAIR-KIT-TOYOTA-CRESSIDA-4RUNNER-CELICA-PICKUP-20R-22R-22RE/162732627329?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Checking for power in & out at ign sw is easy with a test light. Just need to remove bottom column cover. What model is this 86 Sube?

Just had a similar intermittent no start on my 87 GL yesterday. Odd because batt is fully charged & starter works when jumped from sol conn to positive. Pulled steering column bottom cover to look at ign sw & behold if the stakes holding sw together had loosened. Removed sw from column lock, gently squeezed it together in a vise with leather glove to protect wires & solder joints. Staked sw back together with small chisel & light hammer. Put column back together after testing & all was good. Back in business!

If all else fails, disconnect the engine harness on DS, clean it & re-connect. Sometimes oxides can cause problems in pin & sleeve connectors.

Bad things come in threes. Dam that Murphy........................! Pres reg on my 87 Gl wagon (also EA82 SPFI, Dave) failed causing stumbling/dying immediately after startup. Luckily right in my driveway. I had already done the fuel pump a week before. Had some spare TBI bodies to rob a reg from.