czny

Was thinking something similar. Cut pres reg can off mounting plate, weld/silver solder fpt fitting to plate & screw in 5/16" hose barb. Insert external pres reg in return line.

Only difference is high pres fitting & resevoir between the years 83 & 87. Change fitting on later pump & you should be golden. Look at the pics on RockAuto for 83 & 87 gls for differences. I'd have to dig for it but I may have the late resevoir & a core pump.

Mine is also an 87 SPFI GL for comparison. Few yrs ago had the crank angle sensor in distributor start giving out. Car would cut out under lighter loads as things got worse. Swapped distrib & all was good then. Crank angle sensor was failing. ECU codes 11 & 13.

Did the same thing a few yrs ago - clears SPFI intake manifold just fine with hose barb.

Just experienced a FP failure 2 days ago, fortunately right in my driveway. Week & half before was first instance but didn't think of a pump at first as the starter wasn't engaging to restart engine. Cranked the cold engine over, engine would rev up to about 2K rpm then die. One cell in battery was a little low so I thought maybe my 10mo old battery had a shorted cell perhaps. Charged the battery after topping up the cells, load test showed battery good. Hmmm........on a hunch looked to FP & sure enough pressure was much lower than 50psi with return line pinched off. Didn't bother testing running fuel pressure - went right to replace FP. And filter. Wix 33471. Vaguely recall that FP was replaced some 6-7 yrs ago(this is my 87 EA82 SPFI car BTW). Replaced the Airtex E8312 with a Carter P70304(made in USA) that I had squirreled away in the garage. BTW. Driving down 15 fwy last month noticed intermittent power loss on steep uphills & reduced power as well before this complete FP failure.

Too bad McMaster-Carr doesn't ship to Aus. https://www.mcmaster.com/#lapping-compounds/=1dgxn9k $16.44 is a lot more bearable. Then there's this gouging https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CLOVER-VALVE-GRINDING-PASTE-Lapping-Compound-Coarse-120-Grit-2oz-Fine-280-2-oz-/291731991773 Edit: there must be industrial or auto sources for valve lapping pastes over there.

Nice! Glad to have helped!

Page 1575 of 25th edition of Machinery Handbook states that: "the general rule is to use dowel-pins of the same size as the screws for fastening the work. The length of the dowel-pin should be about one and one-half to two times its diameter in each plate or part to be doweled." What dia. is that dowel? 5 or 6 mm? From the pic I'm guessing 6 mm. Common lengths at McMaster-Carr are here:https://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-dowel-pins/=1dfabqo Try feeling for the dowel end with a strong pickup magnet thru the brg web perhaps? Only has to be light enough press fit to hold it firmly & this should allow air or grease/hydraulic action to push it out. Edit: Is it the pic or is there a small flat on that dowel? If so, air or grease won't get it. Back to your leverage ideas.

If its a blind hole drill a tiny hole at right angle to it approx where the bottom would be then use a rubber tipped airgun to blow it out. If air doesn't move it then hydraulic pressure with a grease gun could. Did this to remove a broken cross pin bolt stub in a Chevy diff yrs ago - it works.

No disrespect to the OP, but you're all over the place with this diagnosis stuff, kmpdx. And so are we in a way. When you finally do get some solid info, come back & post it for us to help you if you still need it.

http://www.walkerexhaust.com/support/diagnosing-converter-issues/check-converter-temperature You find cheap infrared temperature guns at Harbor Freight.

Look at his avatar - 1991 Loyale. More likely SPFI.

How many miles on this engine? Weak or broken valve springs will limit engine performance. If it were a broken spring you'd notice a sudden performance change. Weak springs develop over time.

Yeah, that thermo bulb is meant to be stuffed into the evap coils to compensate for changing temps. OK, so you don't know if the evaporator or condenser coils are clean & free flowing. The filter should be somewhere near the inlet line to the condenser, sometimes in front of the radiator if small enough. Some filters have a view window built into the top. Others have ports for the high-low pressure switches. Changing the high side filter when replacing the compressor is a MUST. So is flushing the coils & lines to rid the system of contaminated oils & particulates. Most parts store carry system flush in aerosol cans for $15-20. After flushing blow out all parts with dry compressed air. AND, evacuating the system then charging with a little R134 to test for leaks before fully charging the system. Also, did you drain the compressor oil then refill it with recommended oil? Likewise with the filter & condenser. There has to a certain total amount of oil in the system to survive. Otherwise you'll be lunching the compressor again & again, contaminating the lines, condenser, evaporator etc again & again. Here's a 99 Lego drier-accumulator-filter: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2195678&cc=1389405&jsn=351 More reading: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/163981-98-outback-ac-work-compressor-dryer-and-evaporator/?hl=%2Bconditioning+%2Bcompressor&do=findComment&comment=1363158

I meant to say "replaced the compressor(comma) expansion valve & still" etc. Does that expansion valve have a pilot tube connected to the system - in other words there are three connections to it? Did you replace the inline filter when you did the compressor too? A clogged filter would affect the pressures. Did you flush the evaporator & condenser coils? Another thing often overlooked are the rubber lines themselves. Inner linings have been known to collapse, blocking flow.

"I replaced the expansion valve in the AC system and there is still no pressure difference between high and low side with the compressor running. Could this be caused by insufficient oil? Or should I get a different compressor?" From what I've read, you've replaced the compressor expansion valve & still the compressor doesn't cycle. Are you sure the A/C clutch is engaging to drive the compressor? Unless the clutch is engaged the pump won't rotate. Very simple to power that clutch with a hot wire to test the clutch with engine running & gauges connected. Have you checked the pressure high-low switch, thermal overload in compressor or anything else in A/C clutch control circuits? I don't have a diagram here for your vehicle.

Found your moose-ns t-shirt: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rocky-and-Bullwinkle-Wossamotta-U-T-Shirt-New/162118335368?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=461080256650&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rocky-Bullwinkle-Wossamotta-U-WU-Tee-Adult-T-Shirt/111102044166?hash=item19de32a806:m:mwNRhdundLUetOLLVUGXF5w The whole car-not-done, etc skit has probably been "done" worldwide to everyone's amusement.

If its reman parts for a Fix-It-Again-Tony, I'd say the first way Cardone is about 20 miles east of me here. We say car done. Sad part is, sometimes car isn't done with those products. Good luck with your recon dizzy.

We just had that same question 3 pages back here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/165565-looking-for-options-for-slipping-clutch-on-ej-swap/ Have the FW step machined to the .810 to .815 inch depth after cleaning up the clutch face of FW. More holding power for hills, larger tires/wheels, etc with that Exedy 15008 clutch.

When you do get a high lift farm jack, do yourself a favor & get some accessories for lifting. Its always easier to lift a corner with the wheel & suspension already compressed. This add-on puts 2 hooks around the wheel spokes to lift from car by the wheel & has a padded face to protect things. If you keep driving off road you may want to get some steel wheels so they don't get scarfed up from rocks etc. https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Lift-Wheel-3-Tons-6000lbs-Lift-Mate-Jack-Mate-for-Farm-Jack/351988414170?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Make a steel plate about a foot square(0.3 m x 0.3 m) with 3 holes drilled in same pattern as foot of high lift jack to bolt on. Having a bigger footprint for jack helps keep it from sinking. I have used this many times when stuck in soft sand in the desert - it really does help & saves time looking for flat rocks, etc for a jacking base.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#urethane/=1b3078z

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47526-subaru-ecu-codes-for-1983-1988/

Agreed. Ring terminal goes on the short passenger side intake bolt with 12 mm head. That is the main engine harness ground.

Bought a couple kits from these ebay stores for my wiring needs: http://stores.ebay.com/mjmnationalinc/ http://stores.ebay.com/customconnectorkits/