czny

Yup, that's why I have an extra EA flywheel too. Now that my days in Commiefornia are numbered(because the place in Troy MT is becoming a reality) I can change over to an EJ too. At last! Having less torque with an EA it was necessary for me to shift more often in the hills on trip to MT. Edit: Go with what the others have told you for step depth on your flywheel - .810 to .815 inch. Exedy 15008 clutch kit. I know I will. Have a brand new Sachs clutch kit for the convert too. Unobtainium.

While I can appreciate your enthusiasm to upgrade - hop up - hot rod your Brat, know that no vehicles 76 & newer can be altered in any way & still pass the new smog requirements. California really, really sucks when it comes to building up an engine horsepower wise. My 87 TBI Subaru GL wagon passed with no problem but only because it is still running an under powered EA82 in near stock form. They almost didn't allow the 2nd cat conv because they said it wasn't on the accepted list - a list that had been changed 3 yrs ago after I had already replaced that cat conv! And had passed smog with it 2 yrs ago! Ridiculous smog laws. Stupid Schwarzenegger signed a freeze to the rolling 25 yr exemptions while he was in office. Now Brown is stirring the emissions pot for more changes. Yet another reason I'm moving out of Commiefornia. End of rant.

If they don't know what a step in a flywheel is, don't take it to them. Had mine cut but mach shop wouldn't go less than .827", 21 mm. When the mach shop second guesses you, its time to find another shop. Clutch is still holding up well now for 8 yrs.

Glad to have been of service in this case. Be sure to let them know their past caught up with them. It takes a thousand attaboys to make up for one awsh*t.

Found some stuff for Lokka Matt. "You sent a payment of $396.00 USD to Super Benefit Pty Ltd ATF the Gear to Goannawhere Trust (isales@lokka.com)" After re-reading my emails, actual start of all this slow-motion email ripoff started in late 2014 & ended in April 2016 when they wouldn't respond any longer. The main character I dealt with by email was going by "JD", the "boss" never got involved with the whole thing. Gear to Goannawhere: https://www.4wdsystems.com.au/ https://www.4wdsystems.com.au/index.php?id=125 http://abncheck.com.au/abn/30991504889 http://www.statsinfinity.com/domain/rGTxW5qAzpGTwjeiZY2hxQ.._info.html Looks like things changed in 2014 then again in 2016, so somewhere in between all these changes they dropped the ball & never followed up on my order at all. I'll just have to get $400 satisfaction dissing them at any opportunity on here, Pirate4x4, Ih8mud, etc.

A pulley tap has a reduced shank just for that purpose. https://www.mcmaster.com/#pulley-taps/=1alewv7

I'd rather not log onto my PayPal account to search history while I'm on the road like this. That acct was on a yahoo address that I since closed because of all the trouble yahoo accts getting hacked in 2014 & later. IIRC that super benefit was out of taiwan or hong kong for Lokka. When I get home I'll see if I can find more info for you Matt. I think I'd rather deal with the makers of Spartan lockers.

As I recall it was someone with initials instead of a name like that RJ, JT or some such. I may have saved the emails on my desktop - can't recall right now & I'm on my laptop hundreds of miles from home in Baker City OR as I type this. Another fact: I repeatedly requested a refund by email & then by letter when things went sour. NOTHING! I suspect the salesmen use initials to hide just as others use usernames on the forums to protect themselves. Google 'Super Benefit Party Ltd' & see what you get Matt.

I for one would NEVER deal with those thieves again. 4 yrs ago paid $399 thru PayPal to "SuperBenefitParty.com", Lokka's PayPal address for a R180 lunchbox locker to fit a 1986 Nissan 200SX open diff. They requested pics, drawings, dimensions & finally my carrier with internals. Had to ship my stuff thru Parcel Monkey for best rate to Australia. NEVER saw anything from it. Their response time & follow-up for emails was terrible. Be forewarned - I was burned for the money because length of time for transaction exceeded PayPal's overseas policies. And had to find another 200sx diff which aren't easily found at the self-serve yards anymore. F''k Lokka!!!!!!!!!!!!

DL headlight buckets aren't quite deep enough for these LED lamps so replaced the trim ring screws with longer allens & backed those up with nuts behind the bucket flanges to keep all from vibrating loose. Helps keep pressure down on plastic the lenses so they don't crack later on. Can't recall the thread pitch of those screws but found them at a Home Depot locally.

Installed 4x6 LED headlights outboard on my GL before house hunting trip to Montana. This trip would've been better with an EJ engine but this the last hurrah for this EA82. Its a dog but a dependable one. 1380 miles in 3 days of rowing the stick on hills.Had to strike while the iron was hot. Pic is along the 28N in Idaho approaching the 93N then thru the Bitterroot Mtns. on way to Hamilton MT. https://www.google.com/maps/place/Bitterroot+Mountains/@45.8001599,-114.4418378,9z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x535915a184e5f8c5:0xfba63605bbcae42b!8m2!3d45.8076982!4d-113.9389673 Saw a herd of pronghorn antelope along the way.

Drove 1500 miles already & nobody has flashed their beams yet. Mine have top row & center rows of LEDs for low beams. SAE print goes to top of lamp. Low beams following another car I just keep back far enough that beams don't meet back window of car ahead. Tractor-trailer rigs around here have them too.

I replaced my outer pair of 4 x 6 lights with these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4X6-LED-Cree-Headlights-Sealed-Beam-Hi-Lo-Bulbs-White-6000K-Head-Lamps/252638282642?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Low current & very bright.

You're probably better off doing an H4 dual headlight conversion with low & high beam relays wired directly to fused battery connections. Buy 4 9003/H4 headlight connectors, some colored wire, 4 pin relays & sockets & go to town. https://www.google.com/search?q=dual+h4+headlight+schematics&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=0d2NTE8Pvu-scM%253A%252CgCpuDJ6wHe1seM%252C_&usg=__PBiHrNfoiqVII9pGIYk1rh95bVY%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiNtpuWluXXAhWh5IMKHbM8BusQ9QEIKzAA#imgrc=11W7UL5r5X02EM: I did this but added a center pair/fog light switch in dash.

IIRC there were 2 designs of rear roller brg for 4wd Subies. One 3 piece: outer race; 2 inner cones with inner race touching when assembled. Other was 4 piece(?) with spacer in between brg cones. If mach shop didn't clean trailing arm housing thoroughly that brg might not be seated fully in. Not likely but CV end of stub axle has a seal washer that goes on before the CV. Inside diameter of that washer is smaller than the brg journals of the stub axle so unless mach shop used a HD press to force it, not likely. Edit: if this has drum rear brakes, lip of drum might be dragging on backing plate if brg wasn't seated - or very close to it. If disc brk, rotor wouldn't be centered in caliper pad bracket.

trailing arm & stub axle: https://www.subarupartsamerica.com/parts/1990/SUBARU/Loyale/RS%20Turbo?siteid=216122&vehicleid=45480&diagram=7525380 No spacers or slingers to put in wrong order - so maybe mach shop put a spacer in that doesn't belong there(???)

They are a sealed brg like on water pumps. Chances are the grease had dried out which then took out the balls then the cage then the seal. All it would take is one ball seizing to start the snowball rolling. Easier to get a reman pump than find a kit for them.

Just a note: this tool is currently unavailable thru Amazon but others list it as drop ship. OTC 7535 This is what it really looks like: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OTC-7535-Subaru-Front-Axle-Shaft-Installer-Tool-/142541775573 https://www.jbtoolsales.com/otc-tools-equipment-7535-subaru-front-axle-shaft-installer/ I have one & its the only way I'll re-install axles in front anymore.

No, still live in Azusa CA but travel to my sister's place in E Tucson. Usually stop in Tonopah for lunch.

"czny - you might investigate axles from HERI, they have more extension." Thanks 1 Lucky Texan, but axle angles are better, ride is better, ride height is even ft & rr now. Will try 1/8 inch toe out like has worked for me in the past. I get a little wandering at 0 toe in. My same axles made it to Tucson & back before the 1 inch drop mod so they'll likely live longer now.

Leave that lever all the way back for 2wd on the street. No 4wd Hi or Lo lights in dash cluster should be lit.

Could the little rubber mount for shift lever plates behind trans be broken? Not allowing 4wd lever to go all the way back into 2wd? 88wagon, the mount is bolted to top of driveshaft tunnel underneath just behind the trans. Make sure none of the linkages are loose, bushings all tight too.

Already moved inner axle boot clamps in for 4 inch lift & while this helped prolong boot life, more improvements were still needed. Found suggestions here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146933-2-lift-shredded-cvs-whats-the-solution/page-2?hl=%2Bea82+%2Blift+%2Bwith+%2Bbetter+%2Bangles&do=findComment&comment=1233972 Dropped engine & trans crossmembers 1 inch to improve front axle angles, modded intake air boot for 1 inch drop, modded skid plate for 1 inch drop, replaced PS pump & high pres hose(leaking from shaft seal), helicoiled adj ear of alternator(stripping), replaced upper & lower radiator hoses modded for 1 inch drop, reworked steering shaft coupler for 1 inch drop(longer). Replaced rad cooling fan(blades were crumbling to dust), LOF too. More yet to do: F&R brakes(rotors & pads), R&R WW motor, replace htr resistor(not all spds), change lube in trans & read diff. Its a long trip to MT & back again, so..........

Tried that a few years ago. Back then dealers carried spare parts. Recently tried again and dealer wants to take the ratchet in for repairs, but tells me these are not made anymore. Wanted to sell a fatter ratchet to me. Ever try to work in a tight spot with a fat ratchet in your hand? BOOO! Now I use palm ratchets for this - round, knurled & compact enough to twirl with two fingers. http://toolguyd.com/sk-thumbwheel-ratchet-review/

Those look like the ratchets marketed in the 70s & 80s by Proto & S-K. Good luck finding a rebuild kit for it. I can't even get ratchet internals for my "baby 3/8" Snapon that I've had since the 70's. Essentially it was a 1/4 drive ratchet body with 3/8 drive guts & great for tight spaces. Similar ratchets https://sktools.com/shop/3770-10-8-3-8-drive-flex-ratchet.html Edit: sorry turbosubarubrat, didn't check your S-K link. They are the same. And I've had that same Snapon flex-head since the 80's. Pawl & ratchet are just starting to fail now. http://www.autotoolworld.com/Stanley-Proto-34947B-38-Drive-Bent-Handle-Flex-Head-Ratchet_p_198750.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwgb3OBRDNARIsAOyZbxCyplYPq4moz_KERExILgBSCADbJp2-v3zJr1s6LsoUG-FAgl4VeMoaAoe3EALw_wcB