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If its a d/r trans then take it out of 4wd - its torque locking. No center differential in a 5MT D/R trans.

You'll wanna keep it high & tight to underside. This round Magnaflow fits very nice.............. Don't remember what model muffler but good tone & not very loud. Edit - page 54 of Magnaflow catalog, model 12634 SS 6 inch round by 14 inch case. 2 inch in & out offset

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47201-bad-fuel-temp-sensor/?hl=%2Bfuel+%2Btemp+%2Bsensor+%2Bresistor That's first result a search found - there might be more.

Some of us aren't so lucky. Last time I went for smog the SOB broke the radiator cooling fan switch causing it to overheat on the rack. WTF he was doing with his hands in there I'll never know. Real nice!

How are you getting around the smog inspection? I intend to EJ my 87 GL after registration/smog in September when tags come due. https://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/Industry/Engine_Change_Guidelines.html

Are you sure you didn't pinch the throttle body gasket, that is if you removed it to change the IAC? You might clean the temp sensor, IAC, engine harness(main harness connections below the coil) & ECM connectors. I had an intermittent CEL on my 87 GL recently that was caused by bad connections - the ECM connections under the dash had dust in them. Use contact cleaner. And yes, this did affect startup & cold idle. What made no sense was that it ran so well without any apparent errors until after a long trip to AZ & back. I kept getting temp sensor, IAC, crank angle sensor & speed sensor codes that would never clear, yet all sensors, etc. tested good.

Here's pics of the cheezy China pump. Flex line has metric straight threads on connecting end so........

2 months ago I needed to top off my old 20 gal. solvent parts washer, but since the local Ace Hardware had closed wasn't able to special order mineral spirits in 5 gal cans anymore. Looked for mineral spirits at all the big box stores but none to be found here in Commiefornia. Bought some 1 gal cans of "paint thinner" - which what we used to call mineral spirits - at a Home Depot only to find out it strips in interior paint of my parts washer, melts nylon parts brushes & more. No warning about this on the cans either! Decide to convert the old one to a water based washer & buy a new one strictly for solvent. More about the old washer later. http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Gallon-Mobile-Parts-Washer-Cart-Electric-Solvent-Pump-Drying-Shelves-Cleaning/231810887958?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Unfortunately, these have pumps in them that won't tolerate solvent so I found a Little Giant pump to fit the purpose: model # PE-2YA http://www.ebay.com/itm/LITTLE-GIANT-PE-2YSA-Pump-Parts-Washer/221568121193?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Miniature strainer for pump are available at McMaster-Carr website. A 60 mesh, 3/4 pipe female thread was chosen for this pump. https://www.mcmaster.com/#9877k815/=18br9so Took about 8 days for solvent to arrive at TSC for local pick up. Much cheaper than store branded mineral spirits, but it is mineral spirits. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/crown-psc-1000-parts-cleaner-5-gal?cm_vc=-10005 Notice TSC sells that same parts washer...........convenient. Replaced the cheezy China pump, plumbed with 3/8 pipe & 3/8 fuel hose & barbed fittings. Ball valve added to stop syphoning while changing filter. Filter is standard PH8A Ford screw-on filter with remote filter base available for $15-20. Tapped drain plug boss for 1/4 NPT. Secured 1/4 street elbow & close nipple to boss with JB Weld. Added 1/4 NPT ball valve & plumbing for easy draining. Fabbed a simple retainer for pump of 1 inch wide sheet metal to hold pump in place, a rectangle of rubber pad underneath to quiet pump noise. 3/4 NPT strainer on inlet of pump is to keep the big chunks out. Used old flex line from original parts washer & a bell reducer to 3/8 pipe plumbing. Flex line is 1/4 NPT male thread on those older import parts washers. This Little Giant pump works really well - plenty of pressure through the filter. Parts washer instructions say 6 gal capacity but its more like 7 gal with the filter setup. So 2 5 gal cans of the Crown solvent are good to start with. This will be my final assembly cleaning washer for engine & transmission stuff - no grungy parts allowed. This parts washer comes with, 4 caster wheels, a drain shelf, catch tray for solvent & bottom shelf. 2 hooks on left side for hanging parts brushes too. Plans for old parts washer are to convert it to a heated water based washer for really dirty stuff. Graymills Aquilene 330 is good for this. Will post on that one later when done.

Many years ago before I knew any better, I put a heavier viscosity hypoid lube in my 67 Beetle trans. Until the ambient temperature rose to the 90's F +, the heavy weight hypoid lube made shifting difficult as if the synchros didn't even exist. Got so bad I was double clutching to shift. Changed it back to 90W hypoid rather quickly as it was worse in the winter. Synchro cones brake the gears to match speed with clutch hubs for smooth shifting, so if the brass synchros are locked to corresponding gears by heavy lube, shifting would be sluggish. Unless WA state has a region like the Great Victorian, Mojave or Kalahari deserts, I would say its a bad idea.

Exactly. I have no experience with OZ wheels, so you'll have to measure hole diameter & match up the lugnuts & washers(if needed) to fit. Look at Dorman chart 281-286, page 282. Your wheel guy should be able to help here. Wherever you bought your wheels ought to have 12-1.50 nuts to match. Toyota & others use that thread pitch. It is very common thread size. Subaru & Nissan use 12-1.25 mm thread studs.

Those are 12-1.50 thread studs. He'll have to get lug nuts to suit the studs & wheels. More Dorman charts including applications..........

Here's some pages from Dorman hardware catalog including application chart for 12-1.25mm studs. Stud profiles include knurling diameters/length & etc. Complete catalogs can be found at: dormanproducts.com

Same size as the old air cooled VW axle nuts - 36 mm, or if you're having trouble finding a 36, 1 7/16 inch works in a pinch. Bring a long prybar to lock the hub from moving by placing it across 2 wheel studs, one top, one bottom side of studs.

Sure it isn't an exhaust leak? Get a piece of heater hose or garden hose & use it as a stethoscope to listen with. If internal, a long large screwdriver with the handle pressed to your ear helps. Touch the blade to cylinder head, exhaust flange, etc to pinpoint the noise.

Decided to go for aftermarket Wildwood 260-8419 proportioning valves - 2 of them to keep the divided brake system( Frt left & Rt rear + Frt right & Lft rear) Bought some Edelmann fittings: 4 ea inline tube conns, # 274000(10 x 1.0 mm Invert flare): 4 ea 3/16 invert flare x 1/8 NPTM 90* elbows,#122320: 4 ea 3/16 tube nuts, parts tore only had the long 3/8-24 nuts, # 121030, 1 ea 3/16" x 51" L metric line with 10 x 1.0 mm nuts. Removed orig prop valve & replaced with 2 tube unions, 3/16 tube clamps. Replumbed DS & PS brake tubing from firewall unions & added Wildwood prop valves on top where space saver spare used to reside. Brake line from top of hill holder was removed & replaced with new line to prop valve. See diagonal line in front of booster. Yes, some here disagree with using pipe threads in a braking system, but if you use a high pres sealant such as Leak Lock it will be fine. I've used this stuff for years for steam, hi pres hydraulic & other demanding applications & it will be fine. These Wildwood valves are 1/8 NPTF in & out ports. There are metric valves available but these are EU bubble flare only. Test drove wagon after bleeding with initial valve adj at 4 turns in. Gave both valves one turn more & will see if more is needed. But for now the braking is back where it began after the rear disc conversion.

Hadn't done much with this wagon for some time. Drove down to Tucson AZ (7 1/2 hrs) to visit my sister on Cinco de Mayo weekend. What a traffic disaster on a Friday at evening rush hour on the 5th! PS inner CV boot had a small tear in it, throwing grease everywhere on the trip there. Cleaned up mess then gooped some red silicone on hole for trip home. It held long enough to make it home. One week later the CEL comes on while cruising at 2500-3300 Rs full hot & then goes out(!??!) CEL codes 11, 13, 24 & 33. Checked distrib - OK. Ck'd & cleaned IAC - OK. Ck'd speedo reed switch at low speed - OK. Ck'd all harness connections for loose wire crimps - good. Ck'd DS engine connectors - good. Ck'd ECM conns under dash - some bad crimps & dirty ECM pins. Reset ECM to clear codes. No more CEL! Next to foul up was the brakes. Brake light came on telling me fluid was low, but why. Found rear brake proportioning valve in back underneath had been leaking. Knew braking wasn't near as good as 4 whl disc should be. Notice stain on crosstube - must've been an emergency hard stop that burst the seals. Now how to fix with no compatible Subies left at local PNP(?)

IIRC, some one on this board "talked well" of Fenco axles long ago: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fenco-CV2531-reman-CV-Axle-Assembly-85-94-Subaru-GSP-Powerline-CV66011-/291618631556?fits=Year%3A1989%7CMake%3ASubaru%7CModel%3AGL%7CSubmodel%3ATurbo%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A1.8L&hash=item43e5d32f84:g:~t4AAOSwXeJXfWp8&vxp=mtr#shpCntId Edit: also made in China.....oooppss!

It's really not that complicated. Looking for a short between circuits or to ground directly you move the meter along the harness until the meter stops. Putting the flasher/lamp assembly in the powered circuit allows you to see the meter swing when the circuit makes & breaks. Its figuring which circuit wiring to open up for the flasher/lamp. Having worked with old British & American wiring when the insulation becomes faulty causing shorts is where I learned this trick. Included some diagrams to help you grossgary. Here's a vintage meter for you........http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-Vintag-Sears-Starter-Current-DC-Amperes-Meter-Guage-Nice-Condition-Original-/152213203453?hash=item23709d29fd:g:ugAAAOSwIgNXuQeE&vxp=mtr Here's the new version of that tester: http://www.gearwrench.com/auto-specialty/battery-ignition-electrical/gearwrench-2524d-short-circuit-detector.html Alternate product: https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-25300-Circuit-Detector/dp/B000RFOP1I/ref=cm_cr_dp_asin_lnk/161-9069080-3861028 Short tester.pdf

If its a short in the circuit buried in a taped loom an ammeter like this together with a signal flasher & small lamp in series works for finding the short between wires. The meter needle will stop swinging back & forth when you've passed the short in the wire pair. Interrupt the circuit between the control switch(reverse light switch for instance) with the flasher relay/lamp then move the ammeter along the harness until you find the short. http://www.ebay.com/itm/321985103947?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Helps diagnose a failing starter too.

If you wait for the discounts you could get that 20 ton for $160 & use the difference toward some nice press plates like from SWAG offroad: http://www.swagoffroad.com/ARBOR-PRESS-PLATES_p_7.html Those arbor plates supplied with HF presses just aren't what I would call safe at any speed. And for fabbing brackets & skid plates: http://www.swagoffroad.com/20-TON-Press-Brake-DIY-Builder-Kit_p_40.html

Here's your hood ornament: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Texas-Bull-Horn-Truck-Hood-Ornament-Bullhorn/121093244190?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D34883%26meid%3De540d2a68dae465fa54f7684d832b86a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D121817739034 Just add some chrome airhorns to the roof & call it done.

Scott, I RE-read your post. Seems you already have everything you need.

They sold you turbo axles. Return them for the correct ones. If reman they should have 3 bands in the outer end next to the CV boot & 23 splines in the female inner end. Read...... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/73071-ed-rachs-axle-replacement-for-ea-series-cars/

Had an issue with my 87 spfi bogging about 6 months ago. No codes at all. Went from slight to cutting out under any load but would rev freely in neutral. Got so bad that I had to rev the engine while slipping the clutch to move. Limped home that way. The ignition module had failed in the distributor. Replaced the crank angle distributor with a used one. Later on this killed my cat converter so that had to be replaced too before I could pass smog. Here's the TPS switch adj procedure from the Haynes manual.