czny

Could hybrid axles be built using OB inner cups & SVX axles to work with the OB 4.44 rear diff? I'm asking this as a courtesy to the buyer of my 4.44 VLSD, who also has an SVX.

5628K332 is a tougher material & $10.91/ft.

Did you look at the duct hoses? May be something there less pricey. http://www.mcmaster.com/#duct-hose/=z9lgrc http://www.mcmaster.com/#duct-hose/=z9ljt4

"Anyone know where to get long, large diameter shock / driveshaft boots? It looks like there are about a half dozen brands, none have sizes listed, and the ones I've tried are too small for these struts. Something at least 2.5" inside diameter and 12" long would be nice." http://www.mcmaster.com/#protective-bellows/=z9kbsa "Anybody know where to get M12x1.25, M14x1.5, and M16x1.5 castle nuts?" McMaster-Carr has nyloc nuts in metric fine thread, don't know if they can special order fine castle nuts(slotted nuts).

Stumbled on this pic of the VIN plate of the 4.44 VLSD donor. It was a wrecked 2000 OB with a EJ251 engine rather than the H6! Perhaps there's some clue to this option on the VIN plate that would help the LSD hunters?

Its been at least 2 yrs since I pulled that VLSD so perhaps it was a 2000 OB. Diffs & axles will swap as needed.

No. I have 2 4.44 ratio R160 diffs from Lego OBs & only one has the VLSD inside. The VLSD came out of an H6 engine OB, the open diff came out of an EJ H4 engine OB. Both were 4EAT trans of course.

I have a 99 lego OB 4.44 R160 VLSD here I'd like to sell. My zip is 91010. PM if interested. Edit 10.05.15: Sorry gang. This VLSD has sold!

tanner93loyale I have a slightly used 90 loyale radiator to sell. PM sent. For anyone else, here's some pics. Bottom mounting pins are 22 inches apart. It is a brass single core radiator.

Yup. The dash wiring harness has more connectors proprietary to the digidash cluster & trip computer, etc. You'd have to kluge two harnesses together to include heater/fan, lights & dimmer, etc to function. I sure wasn't going to tear apart my only econo car dash just to make up a harness for someone else. Too much like work.....think I'll watch the show.

Translation: Hi, I'm a Chilean & I would like it very much if someone could help me with green digidash electrical schematics & the 1993 Loyale analog electrical schematic. (Eyesroll) If you really want help start your own thread.........sans sarcasm. Then again there's this gem from Marlin Crawler for the newbies.......... http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=6112.0 Have a NICE day.

Karhu, Your digidash is at the shipping company & you have a PM. czny

Sorry Crazyeights. Many unfortunate things have happened since I last posted in this thread. I have boxed up the digidash & harness for shipping to Karhu. I won't unpack it, sorry. Its gone as far as I'm concerned. There is another new member from Chile asking questions on this conversion, but I just don't have time for it now. Good luck to you all.

I've got a pair off my 87 EA82 I'd be willing to let go of. PM your mailing address & I'll figure out the shipping. Make an offer for them in the PM too.

Did you check out your kitchen for a new cutting board. Like under the toaster oven maybe?

If you had them they should look like these. They are 15.3mm ID x 33.7 mm OD x 3.0 mm thick. Find some hardened washers and open up the ID to 15.3 mm if you can't find them. These washers must be in between the top hat & the strut mount otherwise the steering will bind up. After you get your caster & struts figured out, the toe-in ought to be about 1/8-3/16"(3 to 5 mm) toe out. At least that was what worked best for my 87 GL wagon.

Max temperature for HDPE is 180*F: http://www.mcmaster.com/#hdpe/=tvp66t You might find something better at McMaster-Carr for material. Multipurpose Garolite(G-10) is expensive but has the tensile strength & impact resistance you'd want. Glass-filled plastics have the impact resistance but you have to machine them with carbide tools, adding to the expense.

Here's a link to a sale on a Launchtech CRP129: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5H11SD3994 This ends tomorrow, 9/25.

You beat me to it.....would have said an M60 with a pintle mount. This rig is really coming along nicely. Any plans for aux. lighting? Rock lights?

"is there a cat in the y pipe, im pretty sure there is but i cannot remember.. anyways i want to gut mine if there is one anyone have any ideas on how to go about it?" Remove front Y-pipe from car. Cut rear pipe to get at catalyst bed. Drill thru with long twist drill bit, then punch thru remainder with a pipe & hammer. Empty out pieces. Weld rear pipe back in place. PM'd you about those new OEM pipes for the Y but you aren't interested it seems. Guess they'll go on fleabay now.

Here's a link to year models & ratios for donors: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html Look for 81-83 turbo 280zx for the 3.545 R200. Companion flange would be smaller I believe. Some of the earlier Z car diffs were bolt-in stubs with 4 bolt flanges. Later diffs were mostly snap-in but as the years progressed the spline count/diameter increased. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50499-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount-faq/ Happy hunting.

Here's some info about int manifold leaks: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/coolant-leaking-from-intake-manifold-gaskets And while your in there check the FI spider as they are known to leak & dilute the engine oil: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/testing-the-spider-fuel-injector-1

On top of the control arm between 2 & 3. Just visible in your pic.

You're video doesn't play ystrdyisgone - it is marked private.

Given what we know about the failure, the ideal would be to keep matched sets of input & output gears in the modified trans, right? What I'm proposing would be to cut & shut the D/R end of the input shaft forward of the 1st gear & 1st bearing onto a EJ input shaft. NOT butt welded but cut & turn down the EJ input shaft to a step. Bore the other piece for a press fit of .001-.0015". Key to this is ratio of male shaft diameter to bored female donor piece to maintain best strength. Chill the input shaft & heat the donor piece from the D/R, slip the pieces together, then 4 small plug welds between the bearing & the 4 high gear. All machine work would have be as concentric as possible to keep run-out to minimum. Lathe work with dead center, drive dog, steady rest & checking with indicators should do fine. Would still need a bell adapter but I already have one for the EJ swap.