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czny

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Everything posted by czny

  1. czny
    On top of the control arm between 2 & 3. Just visible in your pic.
  2. czny
    You're video doesn't play ystrdyisgone - it is marked private.
  3. czny
    Given what we know about the failure, the ideal would be to keep matched sets of input & output gears in the modified trans, right? What I'm proposing would be to cut & shut the D/R end of the input shaft forward of the 1st gear & 1st bearing onto a EJ input shaft. NOT butt welded but cut & turn down the EJ input shaft to a step. Bore the other piece for a press fit of .001-.0015". Key to this is ratio of male shaft diameter to bored female donor piece to maintain best strength. Chill the input shaft & heat the donor piece from the D/R, slip the pieces together, then 4 small plug welds between the bearing & the 4 high gear. All machine work would have be as concentric as possible to keep run-out to minimum. Lathe work with dead center, drive dog, steady rest & checking with indicators should do fine. Would still need a bell adapter but I already have one for the EJ swap.
  4. czny
    Transmissions on hand: 99 Lego OB, 8 bolt bell, 4.11 R&P 96 Imp, 4 bolt bell, 3.90 R&P 88 PT D/R(besides the one still in use) 90 FT S/R, 3.90 88 FT S/R, 3.70 I've read all of the still existing threads including yours. Let me at least try out some other ideas. I have here at my disposal a vertical mill, lathe, tool & cutter grinder, tool post grinder & a TIG welder. If not feasible at least I can build a fresh D/R for the EJ swap. Need one anyway. One in the car is growling with bad bearings.
  5. czny
    "Can the cable TO brg fork be used in this later hydra clutch trans?" The answer is yes. Checked the clutch lever arm & bell housing on a 98 Lego OB and found one of the slave cyl holes being used for the hill holder bracket. Scored another center diff & tail housing assembly from this same OB. Same bolt pattern as the 99 OB trans, just different mounting point for shift linkage.
  6. czny
    And of course I know the front & rear ratios must match. Already have the rear 4.11 diff here. Edit:Went back and retrieved the TY754VCACB trans today, 6/14. Will start trans gear swapping when another vehicle is gone from my driveway. Any input from those who've done the gear swaps would be helpful.
  7. czny
    Can the cable TO brg fork be used in this later hydra clutch trans? Has anyone here done the ej R&P swap to a EA d/r trans using the late 99 up 8 bolt bell housing 5 mt trans? Replacing the d/r 3.90 R&P with a 4.11 R&P from a 99 Lego OB & adding the viscous center diff for AWD. Here are links to similar threads about this; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129898-4444-x-1592-x-3545-251/?hl=transmission http://www.offroadingsubarus.com/outbacklowrange_part1.html Thanks!
  8. czny
    Removing the residual oil & contaminants is a good idea if you want the conversion to last. Access to an air compressor to blow out the remaining solvents is a must. Here's some reading: http://www.e38.org/pparish/flushing.htm and http://www.aa1car.com/library/retrofit.htm http://www.4s.com/Upload/Four%20Seasons/documents/Tech%20Tips/English/4S%20324%20AC%20SYSTEM%20FLUSHING.PDF And here's some shameless product promotion for ester oils, dyes, etc by Car Quest : http://www.carquestprofessionals.com/catalogs/servicelines/P_AIR_CONDITIONING.PDF
  9. czny
    What does all this patchwork remind me of.........oh yeah> Just kidding! Keep up the good fight, er, work.
  10. czny
    No. http://www.crawlpedia.com/bolt_patterns.htm
  11. czny
    You're welcome. Pays to go thru the procedures just to certain that there are no nagging doubts if nothing else. Edit: Looks like I chopped the 'h' in 'sluggish'.
  12. czny
    Not MacPherson but you'll get the idea of arm & steering geometry: https://www.google.com/search?q=MacPherson+suspension+with+rack+%26+pinion+steering+animated&client=firefox-a&hs=gfX&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=np&tbm=isch&imgil=SKXi2HtTHPHM3M%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcQb-nMBu-qxkm62IVqOoWOQG-V7pHFQVJigfitNDWMjljDJhzH5%253B407%253B291%253Bbt34G0QfkUBCmM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.dwightsautorepair.com%25252Fsteering-suspension.html&source=iu&usg=__6sRcgab577Q6Nli53A45pKpurk8%3D&sa=X&ei=nPiTU_X9KIPeoATty4DoBw&ved=0CCgQ9QEwAQ&biw=1440&bih=707#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=av0hNKNvFP39WM%253A%3B5ArEvs-OSfGnyM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.technicopedia.com%252Ffund%252Fackerman.gif%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.technicopedia.com%252Ffundamentals.html%3B400%3B225
  13. czny
    Filter/dryer.
  14. czny
    Yesterday I had posted in the 'What have you done today thread.' All I had done was to replace the upper body complete with injector, throttle return spring & FPR without removing the lower throttle body from the intake manifold. Didn't have to disturb the coolant gasket nor the TPS this way. Problem was throttle response was feeling like the car was bogging similar to a too rich jetted carb. And the telltale smell of fuel out the tale pipe when engine was cold! Not good for the cat converter. Fuel injector was supposedly a 'rebuilt' unit in the SPFI body I had bought from a seller. The Air Control was new, but a used TPS & "rebuilt" injector. Had bought another throttle body complete on a PNP 50% off day almost year ago. Why not try it? Easy experiment. Timing set at 20*, TPS adjusted correctly, good plugs & wires, distributor checked out OK, fuel pressure OK. Etc. Here's some info from the 87 FSM for anyone who needs it.
  15. czny
    I'll post a new thread about what I'd done so anyone who searches doesn't have to have a tough time in this long, long, long thread.
  16. czny
    Replaced a supposedly 'rebuilt' SPFI injector with a good used one. Just exchanged the IAC onto another TBI upper body after a good cleaning. Symptom was sluggish response from low RPM with all other things being equal - like timing at 20*, etc. Made a BIG difference in throttle response. Next will be a new PCV - oil consumption is high & get the morning start up smoke cloud sometimes.
  17. czny
    There are at least two other threads in the '80s part of this forum asking much the same questions. And links to other reading. Big green button in right hand corner top of page........
  18. czny
    Yeah, sounds like its low on freon. Low side pressure falls below the set point of the triple switch cutting out the compressor. Switch is in the line from the condenser to filter/dryer bottle.
  19. czny
    Likewise here......its the option I chose. Tire shops here would tell you to buy another rim.
  20. czny
    35/64" bit works for stock studs. Makes for a good press fit. No black magic to it really......
  21. czny
    Someone else will have to chime in here. I do not have parts catalogs for any Subaru models. Sorry.
  22. czny
    Karhu, This seller ships worldwide. Try contacting him through Ebay to see what he has to offer. Please.
  23. czny
    Not Subaru but here's some reading material for anyone helping Subarule: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=45126.0 My arms aren't long enough.
  24. czny
    You're a clever guy - those Chinese gauges are crap. If it was me I would have made a 'T' fitting to go in the block for idiot light switch & mechanical gauge tap. Mount a panel with a 270* sweep oil pres gauge & an idiot light in place of the clock.
  25. czny
    A'. Who needs a wheel to torque the axle nut? Put on two lug nuts one stud apart & lock the hub against the ground with a long bar riding on the nuts. B'. Thumbs up. C'. You're welcome!
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