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czny

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Everything posted by czny

  1. czny
    Sure. I'll have to move the digidash project - working in direct sun is just not much fun. When I get it set up again I'll shoot some more pics & post.
  2. czny
    Karhu was just here today....if he's sincere I wish he'd speak up.
  3. czny
    If everything else for that 88 GL-10 digidash is there, he might be interested. Karhu is not a frequent visitor to USMB from what I've seen.
  4. czny
    Orange digidash in 85-86 & green digidash 87 - up to 89(?) Karhu has some Subarus which he'd like to convert to digidashes. He's also wanting the fuel senders & other parts for these. In order to make the conversion complete he needs ALL the digidash accessories including instrument cluster harness, trip computers, outside temp senders, etc. The one in these pics was being tested for one of his cars. I'm repairing a 86 GL-10 digidash instrument cluster harness for this same cluster. When done, the whole set of parts are being shipped through a broker in Los Angeles to Finland. I will not be involved with the US customs aspect of it. Don't want to either. Once delivered to the broker, I'm done with it.
  5. czny
    HF Tools has both walnut & soda for blasting now. And the small bottles, but replace the cheezy hand valve with a deadman, which they also sell, very conveniently. Ummm, nevermind the deadman. Read the reviews on HF. No so good. Handheld spotblaster looks promising for detail work.
  6. czny
    Yeah, found them last week looking for GM TBI injector connectors. Are you going to blast the sill pocket, or ??? A small blasting bottle with crushed walnut shell would clean that up. Put tarps all around.Wear eye protection & a cap. Or a cheap hood.
  7. czny
    Karhu, I have searched & there are just no 85-86 gl-10 wagons in this area for donors. Here's a listing on Ebay that might be the one, but I can't & won't guarantee it for the seller, or buyer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-85111GA145-GENUINE-OEM-FACTORY-ORIGINAL-FUEL-GAUGE-SENDING-UNIT-/181117077947?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1986|Make%3ASubaru|Model%3AGL-10&hash=item2a2b6b49bb&vxp=mtr
  8. czny
    IIRC, normal R12 pressures (low/high) about 20/150-180 @ 85*F. With a correct charge that is.
  9. czny
    Rule of thumb when testing high/low side pressures & charging is to raise engine RPM to 1500-1800. Block the airflow to the condenser & see if the high side pressure rises. Remove block & let system stabilize. Your pressures are too low. Read this, it may help: http://www.vintageair.com/DownloadsSection/Documents/Troubleshooting%20guide.pdf
  10. czny
    And there are some here that will advise to use Enviro-Safe refrigerants: http://www.es-refrigerants.com/resources/faq/w/id/14/default.asp I may try this stuff out myself because the hfc134 just doesn't get cold enough.
  11. czny
    From my experience converting my 73 chevy 4x4 to HFC134 last year, you need to find a cross-flow condenser to replace the old R12 end-to-end flow unit in your car. You might find a 94 & up foreign car condenser & hard lines at the salvage yard to fit your front end. Take along a tape measure & dimensions of your system. Lines can be made custom for the change at a radiator-A/C service shop. Definitely replace the filter-dryer. Maybe replace the expansion valve. Definitely flush out the evaporator with a power flush such as some auto parts stores sell. The oil in the compressor will have to be flushed out & replaced with ester oil, some available with UV dye. You need to get as much of the old oils out of the system as possible - it can come back to bite you. A quick search found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139525-r12-to-r124a/
  12. czny
    "When I have to service the rear brakes again, I'll really try for rear discs. It's just yeah, I've been looking for a year. I never see turbos in the junkyard, and when I do, I don't have the money for 'em. Or someone had pulled the rear discs already. And buying rear discs from someone else is hard to find, and they usually ask a much higher selling price than I can afford." LKQs prices at the salvage yards are going up again. Just wait and see. Ever since the old man (owner) passed away the corporate office has been seeking more ways to clean out their patrons wallets. Tax on admission. BS environ-"mental" fees. Ad nauseum. End of rant.
  13. czny
    You're welcome. I tried the manual swap & the brakes were better. But not near as good as the rear disc swap!
  14. czny
    Yeah, those are the auto adjusting brakes. I have the manual adjuster backing plates & hardware here you can have free just for the shipping(before I throw them out.) The wheel cylinders look good - no corrosion. Plus another pair of whl cylinders. PM if interested.
  15. czny
    Cut a cross in the top of the bolt head with a 3" cutoff wheel in the die grinder, then break the head off with a BFH & chisel.
  16. czny
    Looks great John! Guess I missed it, but are you going with a light blue colored dash too? Edit: now I see. Black, gray & blue color scheme. NICE!
  17. czny
    Yep!
  18. czny
    Uploading hiccups? They've happened to me too.
  19. czny
    MPFI = Multi Port Fuel Injection, dual port heads. SPFI & carbed are single port heads, here anyway.
  20. czny
    IF you can get at the nut with a grinding stone & die grinder, you could weld a piece of 1/4-5/16" round or square stock to the nut to stop it from spinning. Two beads on two sides of the metal rod may do. Put the ground clamp on the metal rod to weld it to the nut. Tack it, wire brush the nut, crank up the amps, then burn it in good. The heat may then break the rust bonding the threads & while its still hot back the bolt out.
  21. czny
    Not the FSM but a Haynes book fuel system procedure, for anyone who needs it:
  22. czny
    Same here - local Pick Your Part rarely has any Subarus. Already walked through the yard yesterday, some sections twice, & found one 93 Imp.
  23. czny
    Sometimes a bit of dirt or carbon gets into the Schraeder valve of compression tester resulting in inconsistent numbers. There is a way to check for a bad valve seal, like if the seat has come loose in the cylinder head, or a bad valve. If your tester is the screw-in type, remove the Schraeder valve, test the cylinder in question again cranking with starter. Pressure ought to be consistent with each compression stroke(squeeze). If not, squirt a little engine oil down the spark plug hole, crank & repeat the test. Rings - pressures will rise. Valves - same inconsistent pressures. Just my $.02
  24. czny
    You state that the EJ came out a known running car. Do the cam/crank sprockets match the FI system? In other words, does everything match - ECU/harness/engine sensors/sprockets?
  25. czny
    Mounted mine below the bumper to the front valance/air entrance. Screwed the 'L' shaped brackets directly to top inside surface.
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