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czny

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Everything posted by czny

  1. czny
    Mounted mine below the bumper to the front valance/air entrance. Screwed the 'L' shaped brackets directly to top inside surface.
  2. czny
    Sure would. Imagine the whole assembly, clutch cover & disc, oscillating in & out against the TO bearing. The friction disc being flexed on the input shaft splines while the pilot bearing is struggling to keeps things aligned. Mike the friction disc all around to see if the lining is still even. If its thinner toward the outside than the center then pressure wasn't applied evenly - un-square flywheel.
  3. czny
    Once had a 67 VW Beetle. Back in the early 70s even those were required to retrofit a 'smog device' - a STP branded abortion that choked up the heat risers under the carburetor. One early morning in January driving the Angeles Crest Hwy the throttle iced up! Not fun on a mountain road. Killed the ignition & coasted to a stop. Need heat under that carb. Now! Hooked a 1157 tail light bulb to the choke wire & ground, wrapped the thing up with aluminum foil around the manifold base. Voila! Preheat!
  4. czny
    Check the flywheel depth all around especially comparing the darker areas to the lighter. Straight edge and dial calipers would do. It looks to me like the flywheel wasn't surfaced parallel to clutch cover surface. Ask me how I know....had the same kind of chatter a few years ago after a rebuild & it was a badly ground flywheel.
  5. czny
    And its happening here at the Pick Your Parts too! These used to be Pick-A-Part, renamed after LKQ bought up EVERYBODY!
  6. czny

    Trooparu

    czny replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    The lapidary tumbles his precious stones in the rock tumbler to reveal where to cut them. Watching this one.....
  7. czny
    IIRC there is also some discussion about the flywheel depth dimension being essential to clutch grip pressure. Something about 21mm, 0,821 inch, depth from clutch cover mounting face to friction disc recess face. Some have had their EA82 FWs machined & then running a standard 225mm 4WD clutch with good results. EDIT: here ya go... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/111488-the-strongest-ea-clutch-setup/?hl=%2Bea82+%2Bflywheel+%2Bdepth&do=findComment&comment=935988
  8. czny
    No, I meant a return line for fuel. Carbed cars do not have this - FI cars do. Its needed to releave the excess pressure/fuel from the FI plumbing up front at the intake manifold. Several others have already done this before - search & you'll find. EDIT: Seems I mis-spoke about the return line. Scanned some pages from the 87 FSM: I was thinking of my carbed 73Chevy 4x4 conversion to TBI. Ooops!
  9. czny
    The larger end(12mm) of pump is supply from the tank. The 90* small end(8mm) goes forward to injectors. You'll need to run a 5/16" line for fuel return to tank, all the way. Here's bulk steel tubing:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220156 and here:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Brake-Fuel-Line-Tubing-Coil-Kit-5-16-OD-x-25-foot-Roll-W-10-Tube-Nuts/281275783888?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222008%26algo%3DSIC.MOTORS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D22769%26meid%3D6970802115268159710%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D9826%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D390825921683&rt=nc
  10. czny
    "Czny, thanks for the tip, I'll do that. I'm thinking I should jack up the tranny too when it comes time to pull the engine?" Yeah, raising the trans enough that the engine mounts studs just clear the crossmember works.
  11. czny
    Be sure to pull the radiator before tugging on the engine. Just disconnect the harness connector(s) below/behind the battery - you're not gonna use it for the EJ.
  12. czny
    I don't see why not. Already has the plugs & thermo-switch in it. There is nothing wrong with this radiator....I luckily found a PNP dual row brass & had it cleaned for myself because I intend to add A/C & perhaps tow with my GL wagon.
  13. czny
    The 90ish Nissan Pathfinder wheels have better back set for our purposes. And these were stock Nissan wheels for those years. I didn't pay any $60 apiece for these. Grungy used wheels at a PNP were $15 apiece. Those are Hankook 215/75/15 MTs on the Nissan wheel.
  14. czny
    The radiators for that year all have the same overall dimensions to fit the front end. If you have a manual transmission & no A/C, then a single row is just fine. If you have a manual transmission & A/C, then a single row is probably enough unless you're towing in a desert or up hills. If you have an automatic transmission & A/C then a dual row radiator might be needed. Just my $.02
  15. czny
    The one I have listed is all brass. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/145725-ea82-spring-clean/
  16. czny
    A radiator shop might be able to solder in a new bung. I have a barely used one for a Loyale(22" between the bottom pins) in Subaru Parts. Where is Slt, CA?
  17. czny
    Agreed. If it has plastic tanks there isn't much can be done to repair it either. JB Weld but that's a maybe.
  18. czny
    Is your radiator plastic with brass or aluminum, or all brass? Is it similar to this?
  19. czny
    Here's a diagram from a 96 Lego for the vacuum & cannister:
  20. czny
    Shoot me a PM about disc backing plates.
  21. czny
    IIRC there are some undersized aftermarket replacement rear main seals out there. Something about the brown seals being the best if you search.
  22. czny
    Yeah, you look at that Die #222 pic & the revision states rivet position moved 6/2007. Don't know if it'll make any difference in their ability to hear, but some feedback from my friend Mike is definitely going to the office.
  23. czny
    "I don't know how my car is when it dose.........I have never put LSD in the gas tank." Far out man. Trails man. Trails.....
  24. czny
    Be sure to specify loud & clear how you want them shipped. They expedited my order after procrastinating since February - at a cost of $50 UPS Blue to me!!
  25. czny
    More pics of Cometic gasket on a EJ22 cyl heads .........................
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