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What are your plans for rear brakes? I looked back 2 pages & noticed stock drum brakes. Just a suggestion, Isuzu Trooper rear discs with Sube 6 lug hubs & modded backing plate. Or is this 'too soon for television' ?

Thanks! There are some defects in the paint job that will be addressed after the drivetrain, etc are back in place. Already found some bad prep in places that were just careless. This is what happens to the industry when insurance adjusters get priority over body shops - always in a rush.

I've had this truck since Jan. 1991 when I bought from two guys who had dragged it out of a horse corral in Chino, CA where it had been buried up to its axles in horse tockey. Since that time I have replaced the 327 SBC engine with a 350, replaced the TH350 with a TH400, upgraded the brakes to disc front & later drums rear, power steering. Everything but bodywork & paint. Now its time to replace the old cancerous sheet metal with refurbished stuff. Found a cab up in Lucerne Valley, bed, fenders, bumper, grill & other parts locally. Because I just don't have the space nor the spray booth I opted to hand the work over to a local smaller body shop with a good reputation. Now that the old girl is back home, I get to replace all the wiring, brake & other lines, etc. It won't be a frame up restoration, but it will be a custom with a old school look. A 383 SBC making 440 ft-lbs(it was dyno'ed), 700R4 with HD parts & manual 4th switch, 72 C10 tilt column steering with a sport steering wheel, Auto Meter classic gauges in a custom dash panel. White oak bed wood with satin black bed strips & unpolished stainless hardware. Bed interior painted with black splattercoat trunk liner. This is why I haven't been posting much in the Subaru forum for awhile. ;D More will be revealed later.

This one has the speed MPH - km/h switch on the cluster & it works. Will test the other functions today. Tested turbo & auto range functions: There is no 'ride height' wire in the connector for that function. Electronics may be there on the cluster circuit board, but without dissection I would not know. This 'gift horse' sure has had a lot of oral examination.

All functions test good with this 85/86 GL-10 digidash. Pin 25(black/white) to +12v & pin 26(black) to ground[RH sector of connector,clockwise, 26,25,19]: Pins 25 & 19(white) to +12v & pin 26 to ground: Kahru, if you're reading this, all functions are OK.

Perfect! Thanks! Will do some tests & post the pics of the cluster today. Just by luck tried +12v to the black/white & tied all the blacks of the center pigtail to -12v & all the display gauges/numerals lit up but dimly. Will try the 'all lit' pin 19 in your PM.

Great! Thanks! Here's a couple of pics of the cluster. PN 85015GA641 is printed on the bottom.

Gloyale, Do you happen to have the FSM page for testing the 85-86 digidash? Please. Thanks! Kahru, There are likely more parts sources for digidash stuff in the PNW & Colorado for your project than here in So. Cal. I haven't even seen an 80s Subaru in 6 months at the serve yourself yards. And most of those get horked by the careless right away.

I have an orange digidash cluster with the entire dash wiring loom, temp sensor, trip computer, other modules, trip display to replace the dash clock. Plus a few other looms. Don't have a fuel sender though. Yours for the price of shipping because I need to clean the garage. All from a 85/86 GL-10 turbo, awd, auto IIRC. Same as your first Googled picture. Shipping from zip code 91010. The MPH-km/h switch is in the cluster of this one. L/H drive of course. PM your email address if interested & I'll send some photos.

I agree with Gloyale on this. You need a charge light in the circuit. Here's an inexpensive lamp you can put in your dash, or under the hood even. Just as long as its in the circuit: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102790

I see a leak down test in your future. There are kits for testing CO in the coolant available as well. Either way it appears the culprit is internal.

Any particular reason for the 'sharks fin' gusset? Or was that a handy scrap piece? As to your extended travel rear shocks, the rears from a Nissan 300zx might be useful. Least that what I may try whenever my GL gets lifted higher. About 8" travel too.

If its not in either of the 'easy' places to get to, there is a 3 wire junction wrapped in tape next to the trans tunnel. The wires are held together with a rivet. These can become corroded when the carpets are repeatedly soaked. And the control module on right hand side of PS floor under the plastic trims.

Replaced the evap can on the 87 gl 4wd wagon. Just trying a cheap fix to a CEL that's bugging me. Intermittent CEL only on during hwy cruising speeds. No codes except in history(34 - VSS but reed switch is OK). Fuel trap in back is OK too. New gas cap. Searched the local PAP for evap cans. Found that '97 Nissan Altima evap can is same diameter & length, same 4 connections(including bottom) as for EA82 SPFI NA setup. Didn't fix the CEL. Black electricians tape time until I can do an EJ swap.

Only suggestion I'd make is either shave some of the foam around the rectangular hole, or, make a small block of wood the size of the plastic bezel & compress the vinyl so the bezel fits better. Had a time getting the bezels in place on my 87 GL after the upper panels were redone. Caused the electric door locks to hang up a little too because the bezels were in the way of the rods. Too much foam behind the vinyl. Just a suggestion.

Here's a simple test(c/p) for clogged exhaust system courtesy of(& to) Shawn: ShawnW Posted 10 September 2005 - 11:50 AM You can put a vac gauge on the engine to verify clogged exhaust. 1. Put the gauge on an intake manifold vac source. 2. Allow engine to reach full operating temp. (fans cycle on/off) 3. From idle (700-850 RPM) rev up engine to 2000 RPM. (Vac level on gauge should remain the same) 4. Quickly release throttle and watch gauge. Reading should slowly rise then smoothly return to normal reading you were getting at idle. If it rises or does not quickly return to normal the exhaust is likely restricted. This can be the cat or the muffler even if the muffler is clogged with cat material from a previous cat failure. 5. Disconnect exhaust and test if car fails test.

"but to comment on the info: I believe my rear cat is failing too, that or the guard is rattling as many have said on here that is the more probable case. Thing is, I had my car up on a lift and my mechanic buddy gave it some knocks and said it sounds like the mesh is caking and crumbling if that makes sense." Had a rear cat come apart inside. The biscuit was turning around inside & rattling like h3ll. Never buy Eastern Cat products. Poorly made.

Rather than replace the front cat I added a galvanized sheet metal heat shield to the cross member on P/S. Just big enough to protect the DOJ boot. A band aid until I do my EJ swap. But the rear cat failed first. Cat temps should be higher at the rear of the cats. If the cats run hotter at the entrance, they are failing.

I'm going thru much the same thing. 87 GL 4wd front & rear cats are failing. Last year had P/S intake gasket start leaking both into the intake & on top of the block. Replaced the leaking gaskets & some hoses. Months later now the CEL comes on just before everything is fully warm at cruising speeds on the fwy. Then goes out later. No codes while running. Tried everything else. If you can borrow an infrared temp gun you could check the cat(s) for failure. Or a vacuum gauge test. Search the old threads here. Watch this: Read here starting post 21: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87359-loyale-lacking-power/?hl=%2Bplugged+%2Bcats&do=findComment&comment=739770 Edit: Could be too rich. Like carb float level is too high causing percolation. Or choke stuck on. Excess fuel can cause converter meltdown. Some late 70's domestic vehicles used to catch the interior carpet on fire when running rich.

Here ya go, Chevy Vega oil pressure switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Motor-Products-PS64-Oil-Pressure-Sender-or-Switch-For-Light-/141086607398?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AChevrolet|Model%3AVega&hash=item20d96ac826&vxp=mtr There's also these Hobbs switches: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Three-3-New-Hobbs-Pressure-Switches-76575-4-also-Replaces-M4006-4-Switch-/230736088050?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item35b8f14bf2

As it is now with stock rate springs, 3" cross member lift & the 4" strut lift, the camber is about 1* positive. With just a little toe-out(.18" or 4.6mm). If done over I would cut up 2 pair of lower arms, overlap an extra length of inner section to make them length needed. Rosette weld the pieces together & add gussets. Then fine tune with the Miata camber bolts.

I drilled the cross member on my 87 wagon, posts 5, 6 & 11 relate to this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131364-87-gl-4wd-wagon-czny/ Credit to the originator of the bushing idea. Can't recall the member. I had thought to use Mazda Miata rear camber bolts & mod the cross member for camber adjustment. The tricky part would be getting the eccentric on line with the lower arm & picking a effective center for the eccentric adjuster. I don't know if this could get you your 10mm.

Could be the tiny bypass hose from block to t-stat housing, or the steel tube in the block rotted out. Or, P/S intake gasket leaking. If its leaking outside then could be leaking into the intake too.

Does this "beeping" sound like a chime? Does it start only with the door open and the key removed? Could then be the cylinder key switch. Two wire connector above the ECU access panel. Just unplug it. The switch in my 87 wouldn't reset every time so I just disconnected it. And I also have two vehicles with the Sony stereos that "beep" after turning off the ignition.

Just ordered a set for my '87 wagon. Thanks Gloyale for posting. Will return to lifted height & comfort of stock rate springs. My kidneys thank you!