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Early VW bug or bus? 15x5 IIRC. I had a 67 Bug. Very nice product addition. Keep 'em coming.

If its any help I just pulled a 22611ac431 ECU, with 7P on center from a 96 Lego OB, EJ22, 5mt, no egr, Calif. OBD2.

22611AA563 has a 32 pin blue ROM board socket next to the ROM. "ROM board" is printed on pcb next to skt. Noticed the ROM designation MECF-M04 is same as on outside tag. Hmm. 22611AA560 has blue skt also. ROM is MECF-M01, same as outside tag. 22611AA381 (AT) has none of these features. Must be the "dumb" 89-90 ECU. The 563 has this on the ROM: MECF-M04 H4BLAP3 A Socket pin 1 is next to ROM, RH corner. All pcb traces go directly from socket to ROM. Must be the one. BTW, these AA560 & AA563 ECUs are Hitachi. Looked at your ECU presslab & noticed a very different layout.

I have on hand 3 ECUs so far: 90 Lego AT, 22611AA381(donor ej22 engine) 90 Lego OB MT, 22611AA560(donor ej22 wiring looms including to ECU) 90-91 Lego OB MT, 22611AA563 The last one is E7, not the F9 designation. I did figure that the Frankenmotor as built would fail smog without remapping. Will have to read further & learn more about the opensource tools.:cool:

To presslab: I've read & re-read these a few times. Great topics. Just asking questions before I do the build & meld the wiring in my 87 gl. To Gloyale: I've been combing the serve yourself yards for intact 92s like your suggesting, but, most of the time essential items already have been removed, or destroyed. Thanks to both of you!

Some days it pays to be patient....to say to yourself "I'll wait for something better."

Found more info about IACs at NASIOC: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1752404&highlight=92+lego+iac Found a complete 92 Lego intake w throttle body, injectors, loom, etc for less than local PAP prices. My question is: Would a 92 Lego intake manifold with throttle body have better IAC adjustment than the 90 Lego OB manifold? Some insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

Here's my list of building blocks: 90 Lego OB ej22e heads Delta RV cams 99 Lego OB ej25 block 90-91 Lego 22611AA563 ecu, MT 99 Lego OB y-pipe or OBX UEL SS headers 90 Lego OB eng wiring loom & interior loom Granted OBD 2 is now the preferred system to harvest for this, I'm attempting to stay within the 5 yr span according to Calif ARB guidelines to make my swap smog legal. My 87 gl can have up to 92 OBD 1 without the arbitrators/inspectors throwing a hissy fit. My question is would a 92 Lego intake manifold with throttle body have better IAC adjustment than the 90 Lego OB manifold? Just in case I need to bump up the idle speed to compensate for higher compression & RV cams. Edit: read mellow65's post, Swapping a phase 2 ej25 in an older legacy or impreza, in USRM, Engine And fairtax4me's post, IAC and TPS explanation, in Engine electrical

Thanks!! I try to maintain some kind of standards.Ha ha ha ha. I had done the rear arm bushings in 2008. Lost the bookmark for that source 2-3 pcs ago. Somewhere in Michigan IIRC. Yep, that's my 65 Chevy....1/2 ton fleetside. Came out of a horse corral in Chino, CA.

After you get done with the engine upgrade, are you going to put your tube bender to work upgrading the bumpers?

Scored a spare 5mt d/r trans w linkages, 2 pc driveshaft, starter, ignition coil w module, all 4 power window switches & vinyl cargo cover(window blind) from a '88 gl wagon today. All at 50% off at the local PAP. This car was not on the list of cars to be put out on Saturday. .......................................................................

Very nice work - as usual. Are you using flux core wire with that Lincoln 125 MIG welder? I didn't see a bottle anywhere in the pics.

I wouldn't know. Need to ask the OP to measure his regrinds. Or contact Delta Cams. Or wait for Doug.

So, stock cam base diameter minus reground cam base diameter divided by 2 equals amount needed to be cut from cam carriers. Just measured 2 stock 86 EA82 cams. Base diameter is 1.339"(34.01 mm). Hope this doesn't advance the cam timing by too much.

Did you have a valve regrind done on these heads? Once had a shop cut the stems too short leaving too much clearance. 3 of 4 cyls wouldn't make enough compression to run. Had to pull eng & tear down for cyl heads fix, again. If not maybe there's enough gap @ valve stems for lash caps? Not really good practice to sink the valves deeper.

Went to local PAP Sunday & found the elusive 99 Lego OB EJ25D for Frankenmotor. Seems appropriate for October - another Frankenmotor. :cool: Went back today & stripped engine down to shortblock. $125 for shortblock including $25 core. Longblock would have been $202 before the extra charges. Timing belt, PS cam sprockets were gone - broken pieces. Toothed idler brgs were seized - & a few BBs missing. No damages to cyl heads nor the piston crowns. Head gaskets looked good. Really have to believe that if more maintenance had been done this Lego OB would still be on the road. ................................................................. Already have a 90 Lego EJ22 complete for heads, cams, manifold, eng wiring loom, interior loom & ECU. Bores of EJ25 still have good crosshatch marks, no step in bores from rings at all. Just a slight amount of glaze. Will split the cases for light hone & re-ring, new rod & main brgs, polish the crank. .................................................................. Lucky the guys doing pre-lot work didn't hork the header pipe. $10.

Here's the radius rods for comparison. Top is stock, 1.25" longer then .75" longer. Chopped the rods in half, added 1"x .090" wall Cr-Mo DOM tubing & welded the ends. Then drilled .375" holes thru tube just into the rod material @ 8 places for each rod. Plug welded the holes for extra strength. ................................................... Installed rod: ................................................... Hard take-off in 1st still had wheel hop so checked all the engine & trans mounts. Engine mounts were fine but the trans mounts may as well been made of artists' gum rubber erasers. The mounts were allowing the drivetrain to shift forward when the tires bit hard & the torque went way up, pushing the DS axle into the engine cross-member & making a grinding sound. ................................................... So for stop-gap I added pieces of steel to the mounts to limit travel. Left 3/16" gaps for mount flex up, down & forward, back. They clatter when starting the engine but thereafter are OK. Big improvement. ................................................... Found some Energy Suspension bushings 9.9107 to fit inside 1.50"x.120" wall DOM tubing. Will fab these mounts later when doing my EJ engine swap. ...................................................

Tearing down the LSD carrier to remove the nut buttons from inside. Cutting grooves for the slip-in sub axles. Clean up & reassembling the LSD. Trial assembly & checking the fit. Agreed - a lot of extra work for hybrid axles.

Don't forget to measure your bearing preloads(turning torque) of your ej r160 at the pinion fully assembled with a inch-pound torque wrench(about 27-35 in-lb). Then measure the pinion preload with the carrier out(about 12-15 in-lb). You don't need to remove the pinion from the ej case - just change the companion flange & tighten to correct preload. You'll want to duplicate these figures for long brg life. Keep R&P backlash at .004-.008"(measured with dial indicator at outside teeth of ring gear). Measure the shim packs from both diffs to determine which way you need to shift the ring gear. Find some Prussian Blue paste at the auto parts & run your contact patterns. You want an elongated olive shape - most of that contact toward the toe(inner diameter) of the ring gear.

That's a timing hole plug for an EA82. Nice color choices - not too 'loud'. Very good work you got going there. Congrats!

When I used to have stock sized wheels on my 87 gl I would drive around curves faster - there's a similar one to yours here @ the 605 s to 60 e fwys. Sweeping rt hand curve filled the left VC with oil then once on the fwy again would show bluish smoke under hard acceleration. Closed throttle - high manifold vacuum pulling oil into chambers through pcv system &/or valve guides(worn guide seals). Had the heads chk'd for the un-usual chamber cracks - pressure tested by a shop. Negative on coolant leaks. Valve guide seals were worn. Plus PO had submerged the car sucking water into #4 scoring the cyl walls. Compression/leakdown tests found that.

I purposely drilled & tapped the zerk fittings higher than some have - but this creates a tight spot when greasing the bushings. Found a tight spot 90* "special" access grease coupler, Lincoln model 5883. Mcmaster-Carr # 1091K61, $7.99. Slick little coupler slips on sideways with a urethane seal. For all you vintage Saturday Night Live watchers: "Now isn't that special."

Reset the toe to .13" toe-out & drove for 30 mi. today Seems better with a little less toe-out. Tracks straight with hands off at fwy speeds for a count of 5. Trimmed the fenders ahead of the front tire - they were rubbing on downhill dips. Replaced the ignition cyl with one keyed alike to the doors. Old cyl was worn out & difficult to operate. Replaced the rt side instrument cluster(speedo/voltmeter/fuel) - odometer working properly now. Still have to replace the trans speedo seal.

Great attention to detail. Keep up the fine work!

Yup......same noise you're describing. Could feel vibration in the resevoir while running. It was more expedient just to replace it with a reman pump. Some seller on fleabay had them for $46 shipped.