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OK. Let's ask this in a different way. Does anyone here, possibly with engine machinist experience, think the valve angles of all SOHC heads of these MYs, Ej259 included, are the same? I know the valve sizes are the same in these SOHC heads for these years, 2000 to 2005, so interference would be fine there.

This winter has been cold enough to kill batteries and my neighbor's 2004 OB, cold weather model by the VIN, didn't have a block heater. One day he contacts me about his car 'cause it wouldn't start - just cranks & cranks with no sound of compression. No huffing noises. 140k miles on it with no apparent service history. I pulled the engine to determine if it has a broken or stretched timing belt & bent valves. Pulled it down to short block today & indeed it had bent valves in both heads AND a stretched timing belt with cracks on the outside and a leaking tensioner. Someone had changed the head gaskets only, Felpro MLS Permatorques. 3 of the cylinder bores appeared very dry while L rear cyl had been burning oil. Yes, this has the early PZEV pistons with the horseshoe shaped trench in them. Has anyone here used ej pistons such as these in an ej259 block with 259 heads? https://www.ebay.com/itm/373015758427 My neighbor foolishly used diesel 15w-40 oil in his engine last year - hope the R&M brgs didn't suffer for it.I'll check out the rods while the oil pan is off for resealing. Found this old thread while searching for an answer: Help! EJ251 heads on EH259? - 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX - Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Work up to the needed drill size in steps from smaller to required size. Use drill & tap fluid. Find a friend with a steady hand to do the drilling if you think you can;t hold the drill steady. You may be able to find thick-walled steel bushings at McMaster to hold against the case surface for a drill guide. Some are available at bigger Ace Hardware stores too. Take your time. Don't rush it.

Drill & tap hole for new insert. Screw insert in with another bolt, short piece of tube backed with a nut. Drive in stakes until flush. Choose your inserts carefully because some sections on front of engine have limited metal to anchor into

For less money https://www.mcmaster.com/93715A630/ insert tool https://www.mcmaster.com/94010A330/ You can also find taps and drill bits there at McMaster-Carr I had to do the helicoil repairs on all timing idler & tensioner holes on a 2003 Forester engine in 2021. Take your time when tapping holes and clean out chips with compressed air frequently as you go.

Yeah, everything I have here in Troy that doesn't run is buried in snow too. When I asked Chris about it he said that it was a single range pushbutton manual car. He may have access to a tractor but then you'd have to sling it thru the door openings with a big tie down strap to the loader bucket. Shovel snow, sling bucket to roof, pick it, drive back the quarter mile and set it on your trailer. I thought about getting it last winter this way but other things became priorities.

Those OBX fixit "kits" were parts sourced from McMaster-Carr IIRC. I may still have the PNs for those on another computer but I'll have to search. Nothing but metric allen bolts and Belleville washers! And I'll leave this here for reading: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/46877-front-diff-interchangeability-the-true-answer/

Looks like you've got an OBX Torsen front diff in there Bennie. Nice! Bringing this back up: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/121582-transmission-reseal-new-bearing-with-pics/ And this for an '89 DL/GL: https://www.scribd.com/document/49628667/Subaru-EA-82-Service-Manual-Part-1 And this for someday in the future: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142019-dual-range-swap-into-loyale/

Contact Chris in Libby. Ask him when it could be convenient to get the whole car. Go there with truck and trailer to bring it home. Push the rollovered donor into the garage and pull engine & trans. Push the donor out to some safe, as in not in the way, place. Tarp the donor until spring so people with nose problems don't complain. This will get you some time to fix your trans or find a good 5mt d/r trans you wish you had instead AND spare axles, rear diff, etc.

Hope your garage is heated. It's -25*F here in NW Montana this morning & you're weather is likewise cold. NOAA states for Spokane Valley a balmy -8*F. 🥶 Correction, the low here was -35F. I trust my old time u shaped Taylor mercury thermometer more than the digital one.

Good luck finding spare single range 5 spd trans at the local PNP yards around Spokane - this one may not be available later given that you didn't get it now. Snooze you lose. PM was sent about this deal earlier but I guess you didn't get around to reading it(?)

Don't forget the brake proportioning valve is also back there. I had one leak fluid from the end seal but only on hard braking only.

Did you check out the rear rubber brake lines between the cross member and the swing arms for cracks or splits at the ends? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1991,loyale,1.8l+h4,1270112,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+hose,1792

silverbullet, If you need another trans like yours contact Chris at NAPA in Libby MT, 406-293-3743. He has a Loyale that was rolled he'd like to get rid of. That is the store phone number. He needs the entire car gone, not just parts. All or none.

Only one more little thing to do when pulling the engine for a clutch job. Pilot brg usually comes with a clutch kit.

If the PO didn't replace the pilot brg when they did the clutch, the input shaft could still be turning the worn input shaft brg at the back of the trans,thus making that noise(?) Just a guess.

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/121582-transmission-reseal-new-bearing-with-pics/ Read this old thread. Might give you some insight as to noises. IIRC, there's an old thread by Gloyale & others from 2000 decade with similar noises. Didn't find it yet.

Have you checked the fuel vent pipe and hoses for kinks or dents. All this stuff is behind the passenger side wheel and metal shield. Could be rock/ice damage to fill neck vent tube. If the fuel tank can't vent it won't fill.

This pdf only covers Subaru to 1980 but there were a lot of Hitachi carbs using the same solenoids. http://tomco-inc.com/Catalog/idlesolenoids.pdf http://tomco-inc.com/CarbCatalog.htm

You may have to buy the whole replacement solenoid then. Or cut the end cap off with a cutoff wheel & die grinder, put a contact, brush and end gasket on it (?) Is it a cast solenoid body? I did a search for solenoid contacts on fleabay and there just weren't as many valid results that I remember in 2018. Maybe a search for Toyota forklift starter parts too? https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1311&_nkw=denso+starter+rebuild+kit&_sacat=0

The solenoid contacts are the same as Toyota 20 & 22R starter solenoids. It's the bendix gear and motor that are different in rotation. Somewhere in USMB history I made a post about this same subject. There it is! https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/167347-86soob-wont-start/?do=findComment&comment=1387840

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-14151-Master-Cylinder-Bleeding/dp/B08M4D9HSB/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2KWX4S30D88K6&keywords=brake+master+cylinder+bench+bleeder+kit&qid=1701377743&sprefix=master+cylinder+bench+bleeder+kit%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-5

Just had to replace both front calipers, pads & rotors(F&R) on my 87 GL this summer. R front piston had seized so I only had half braking, pads were dragging. At the time, could only find a Nugeon R caliper and a Cardone L caliper. Replaced the M/C, and hillholder too. I had a donor vehicle here for that. Might have to make brake parts corrosion an annual thing with the road salts here... It took 2 big bottles of brake fluid to do the job front & rear (did rear disc conversion long ago). After all that, discovered the LH parking brake cable wasn't returning correctly. Had to pull off that Cardone L caliper only to find the caliper parking brake lever wasn't returning - Cardone in Ontario Calif had left the return spring out! 🤬 Haynes manual shows how to make & use a special tool to compress the spring washers to get at the return spring and fulcrum. Robbed one from my old caliper to get that done. Then after yet another 2 bottles of brake fluid later I was done! If you have to replace front calipers , do it in L&R pairs, make sure the caliper pins get brake lube or antiseize with new or good pin boots, and don't buy Cardone calipers! Rockauto lists Raybestos and Nugeon again, thankfully!

You need to bleed the lines closest to the master cylinder first(front calipers), then the rear. If you do the opposite you may siphon air from the short un-bled lines where the lines connect at tees, hill holder, etc. Bleed M/C with lines just loosened a little until fluid pushes out, then tighten them up. Put an oil pan underneath to catch the mess. Hose it down with brake cleaner afterward. Bleed order is Left front, then right rear. Right front, then left rear. Get a one man bleeder kit with a check valve in it. Put the valve end in a small plastic bottle with a little brake fluid in it to stop air from going back up the bleeder hose. Pump slowly with full strokes of the pedal 6 to 8 times at each wheel then check the reservoir after closing the bleeder. Not trying to discount what you know of bleeding brakes, just repeating what has worked for me since the 70's when working alone. Used to be a NIASE dealer mechanic. Good luck!

Bennie, that carb kit # 254556737560, is on sale right now out of Ontario Calif. for $33.99 USD and ships for $23.40 USD. MUCH less than $200 AU. Even if it isn't the quality kit you get over there, at least you'd have something to work with if needed.