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Definitely interested in one. Weighing the costs of rebuilding a r160 plate lsd against buying the locker, I think I'd rather buy the locker.

Do your folks know an attorney? Maybe get a referral through the attorney for patent help.

Very nice work! Let the chips fly!

Precisely. It is an auot-unlocker. I ran a Lock-Right for 16 yrs in my old Chevy PU. Now running a Spartan which is stronger. These have their driving quirks when things get loose on wet pavement, but they're fine for light offroading(in a heavier vehicle).

The heater blower not working in 1 & 2 could be the blower fan resistor in the fan housing behind the glovebox. My 87 gl had the same problem with vent/heat/defrost. Turned out to be the black plastic had cracked where it mounts to the switch/control body with screws. Bought one from a fleabay seller in S. Dakota - it was fubar too:mad: Direct sun is brutal on these plastic parts. Finally found a good one at the local PAP. Replaced that & the resistor then everything worked correctly. Just remember to mark the hoses on the back &/or do them one at a time.

I was combing the local PAP today & noticed Nissan Maxima rear calipers look similar to the 200SX ones. Checked rockauto for years & rear brake parts - 200SX have 30mm bores while 90-94 Maxima(3.0L V6) have 34mm bores. Same parking brake cable brackets & levers. Didn't check the pin spacing while there.

Lookin' good there! Did you copy the dimensions for the side gear splines(length of splines & chamfers), undercut(?) corner radius on the outside, etc from the R160 in this rendering? It may be possible to use the old 'nut buttons' from the R160 for the stubs(?) Good job!

Vacuum leaks? If your brake booster hose check valve isn't seating that could be one source. The check valve is just above the crimped band on the booster hose. Or the booster itself, maybe.

You are welcome. I really want to see you succeed. They're more than a few that want to see you succeed. And then there's.....do we really have to say.:-p

The center gap is at minimum .015-.020" with the clutches disengaged on both sides. That's another way to look at it. prwa: "Now on another note. Should I be worried about someone stealing this idea? Since I'm putting up photos and things?" Just don't show your hand while playing poker. "Keep it close to the vest.":)

You know the assembled gap between the center chunks only has to be 2x the depth of the clutch teeth + say .015-.020" for lubrication/safety. If that helps gain you some needed space then good. After all, you're designing the prototype & changes can be made as needed later. If it was me I'd use something like 4142 or 4340 steel unhardened for the first one, run it, tear it down & inspect for problems. Can always go for tougher, easy to machine steel alloys afterward. Chop, cut & rehash.

The nuts for the splined stubs have to be clear of the cross-pin so they can rotate freely with the outer clutches. Cylindrical with a obtuse tapered end to mate with tapered reliefs inside the outer pieces using friction would be an easy way. :DJust a suggestion. Wait until it comes time to build the tooling for this project!

Yes, those are what I was referring to. The bores for pins are cross-drilled thru the outside of the clutch center body. One to use a wire to hold the load pins in for assembly, drilled in line with the groove in the pin with the pin fully compressed flush with the face. Another hole from the outside for lubrication near the bottom of the pin bore. The hollow thru the middle of the "center chunk" was for a cup shaped c-clip retainer for the c-clip on chevy PU axles. Not needed for an R160. The wide groove in the clutch face of the "center chunk" isn't needed for the R160 either. That was to permit loading the c-clip into the groove on the axles with all the pieces inside the carrier. You could run clutch teeth all the way around for the R160. More clutch engagement = more strength.

Question #2: enco.com. Use their 'find it' search for tools, etc. Very easy. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=891-4976&PMPXNO=3904809 They ship quickly.

Found the Dorman(Motormite) equivalent washers: 618-066. They're thicker than stock. Bought mine from RockAuto.

I've used these & like the quality, plus you buy replacement keys direct from factory: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-71923/?rtype=10

Do I see a winch mounted on that push bar? 2000 or 4000 lbs?

When you get to the design of the springs & pins to hold the clutch faces to the side pieces(the parts the splined axles stubs mate to) I'd suggest taking a page from the Spartan lockers - they're much stronger. This lock-wrong allowed the c-clip axles to move inward hitting the cross-pin thru the carrier. Didn't like that feature much. For the R160 with stubs could make 2 tapered nuts to fit inside the side clutches, interference taper fit to the inside so as not to spin when tightening the stubs. The assembly check for the space between the center clutches I believe was .140-.170" on the lock-wrong, IIRC. Carry the same ideas over to the front diff, allowing either 23 or 25 spline stubs - or stubbed axles.

You're welcome! That locker is pretty well worn. Hint: You could get the tooth angle for the clutches if you have access to an optical comparator.

Naw, this one's on the house. I'll be listing some other parts in the classified & hopefully what I've done here will convince some of my good intentions.

That Powertrax should be there in 2 days....it was cheaper to squeeze it into a priority mail small flat rate box for $5.35. Counter woman said otherwise it would have been $19.90 because of the weight!

It'll be in the mail tomorrow.

Here's my 87 with b2300 mazda wheels. One with the wheel fully stuffed - mounted everything but the spring & jacked up until it lifted both wheels. 4" SJR lift, 27x8.50x14s OOPS! No pics!

While cleaning out the garage I found a very used Powertrax locker for a C10 Chevy PU. If you're interested I'll mail it to you - send a PM with your name & address.

Remove the tank, drain it & take it to a radiator shop to be boiled out & soldered if there are any pinholes. Surest way other than a new tank to get rid of rust & scale. And have them pressure test it.