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Replaced all 3 door cylinders on my 87 GL wagon.

Sets from 1/2 to 1" are also available like Model #831-0102 from enco.com, for $47.

Sounds like you've got a cracked distributor cap & it's cross-firing some cylinders. Check the inside of the cap & rotor for tracks.

Don't know what manufacturer you prefer but here's a link to the Empi site for catalogs & silicone vs neoprene boots: http://www.empius.com/2004_ab_joints_rpcomp/2004_ab_joints_rpcomp.html

Yeah, even replaced the brake booster hose & cleaned the 'peanut' check valve. Was contemplating replacing the brake booster next. T/S intermittent electrical probs can be such a PITA.

87 GL wagon spfi ea82 with intermittent stalling when you come to a stop. Replaced vacuum lines, breather lines, cleaned the maf, checked timing & idle adj. Still there. Today while cleaning out the idle air valve found insulation on one of the solenoid wires was cracked shorting to the little clamp on the solenoid - just bare enough to short when braking hard so the connector pulled on the wires. Wouldn't have noticed it if I hadn't been checking the solenoid resistance to make sure the coil was OK.

Had a spare ignition & rear cylinders re-keyed to my new L&R door cylinders today for my 87 GL wagon. Will replace all cylinders in car tomorrow. Street trolls have ruined the locks.

Currently there are some street trolls testing car alarms around my area.....hitting cars to test the motion detectors. Common trick to keep wearing down the victim so the alarm stays off. And then..... Granted some lurkers will be reading this thread...... Infrared camera(s) pointed & ready......

Proximity switch & a relay also works for fuel pump/starter defeat. Epoxy a large steel wash to the back of the plastic dashboard & the proximity switch in the middle of the washer hole. Position your favorite fridge magnet to start & run the car. A few washers in other places might help confuse the uninitiated.

Real random question. At some points along the line it looks like the Dual range trans reduction gear ratios changed. Some were 1:59 some were like 1:19 or something? When was/were the changes? Any way to tell from the outside which gear set it will have? (in case someone did a swap) From my copy of 87 FSM it appears the d/r turbos had different gear sets & reduction gears. Begs the question if the lower ratio gearsets could be combined with the 1.59 reduction set? Anybody else? http://s1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii590/kazinski5/?action=view&current=87MTtransspecs001.jpg Edit: Sorry for the small pic but when will it be possible to upload pdfs?

I opted for the 14x6 Mazda truck wheels which have a smaller center hole(hub centric). Mounted the hubs on outer axle stubs & turned down the 4 nubs to fit on my bench lathe. Drilled starter pilots with a 9/16" bit from the wheel lug holes then drilled 3/8" pilots thru. Machined flats from the other side with a 7/8" counterbore & 3/8" pilot(enco.com). Then increased the hole to 35/64" in steps. Built up 3 short beads of weld around the hole with a MIG then cleaned up with angle grinder & die grinder. The hubs are steel & weld easily(Just not too much heat to warp them.) Used 610-322 Dorman wheelstuds(rockauto). Pressed studs almost to bottom of knurl & let torqued lugnuts square the studs to the hub. 87 GL wagon with 4" SJR lift, 27x8.5x14 Grabbers on Mazda PU whls.

I had the same code on my 87 GL TBI when I first bought it in 2007 - 34 with intermittent CEL. Found the solenoid coil had infinite resistance when the CEL went continuous. Dealer wanted $150:eek: Found one @ local PAP for $5:banana:

My EA82 engine had a small leak from this "bypass" before I rebuilt it. Replaced the swaged tube with a 1/8" NPT 45*elbow & barbed fitting. The Edelmann # is for the elbow. Gotta be careful when you drill & tap the hole - keep the same angle as original & put a piece of hose over the drill bit for a stop to limit the depth. Maybe the purpose of this is to vent air from the coolant passages at the top of the block so there won't be any hot spots in the cylinder jackets.

x3....Monroe 71876 front R & 71877 front L.

Did you check some of the grounding points at the back of the car to see if they were corroded or loose? As long as you leave enough wire to service the fuel pump & the ground you add won't catch on anything. Be careful where you put your ground connection if you use a sheet metal screw to secure the ground to chassis.

On my 87 GL wagon the fuel pump & ignition relays are mounted to a bracket directly above the ECU. The small light blue w black stripe wire on the fuel pump relay goes to pin 47 of the ECU. Just to test the relay & pump take a 12v test light & ground the clip then touch the probe to the LB/Blk relay connector with the ignition on. You should hear the relay click & fuel pump running. I was under the dash to wire in driving lights anyway so I tested this - it works. Grounding this wire might be the solution for the ECU problem 86gl-10trbosdn mentioned. Hope this helps.

Just another thought - if the fuel lines are backward it won't start. Just tripped myself up on that one.;) The line from the fuel pump thru the fuel filter goes to fitting on the side of the throttle body. The return line goes to the pressure regulator. Hooked up backward & you won't have any fuel pressure to the injector. All this in the FSM under SPFI fuel injection(2-7, pg. 8, fig.10).

I have 2 vehicles both running just fine with coolant stains in the cylinder walls - my 87 GL(EA82) & my 65 chevy p/u(sbc 350). I was told by my auto machinist that the etching effect of coolant is OK as long as there is no pitting. He told me that even after reboring cast iron blocks stains can still be seen. What matters is the piston to cylinder wall clearance & if high mileage that the piston skirts haven't collapsed. Scuffing up the stain with scotchbrite is OK - honing just to remove the stain is unnecessary. Always put a shop rag on top of piston before cleaning the bore. Have a great day!

'87 GL wagon(same one) Replaced rt inner & outer tie rod ends & bellows. Replaced L&R ball joints. Knocked out ft knuckle brgs, washed & painted knuckles. Checked out ft axles - found my clicking cv(rt side - of course!)

My 87 GL: Last Wednesday - rear diff LSD install, breather line in diff cover, modded hubs for 6 lug, rear disc convert w/SS braided lines, rear 4" SJR lift, Mazda PU wheels w/General 27x8.50x14s. Friday - pulled EA82 engine, took FW in for resurface. Replaced FW seal. Saturday - removed wheels, disc brakes, axles, struts. control arms, fender well plastic, spare tire rod. Installed EA81 washer bottle in engine compartment. Replaced left side inner & outer tie rod ends & boot.

No, didn't get a chance to shoot some pics of the 'operation' when the shop tore down the engine. Stuck around just long enough after setting them up to see one pin pulled - this is a racing engine shop & they're quite busy. Thought I should get out of the way - or they might put me to work.

I was at a friends auto machine shop last week. Some young guy had dropped his ej20t engine off for repair because it had developed a "ticking noise". The engine had been torn down to the short block with nothing apparent to cause the "ticking noise" - until they pulled the oil pan. #4 rod bearing had been destroyed - there were all kinds of metal flakes in the oil filter when they cut it open. So I get asked for a 14mm allen wrench & a piston pin puller for Subaru. Didn't expect that the turbo pins would be so heavy with small through holes like this one. The holes are about 8mm leaving little to grip because of the taper on in insides. Somewhere I seem to remembered reading about using concrete anchors with a slide hammer to pull the pins. Home Depot carries Hilti 5/16" x 3 1/2" anchors with 1/4-20 threaded studs in the center. Body dent slide hammer tool from local auto parts had a 1/4-20 adapter in the package. Had to grind down the head of the center stud to slip freely though the piston pin & thin the expanding shell to get a snug fit inside. Gently tap the modified anchor into the piston pin, grab the anchor shell with pliers, tighten down the 1/4-20 nut until about 1/4" of thread is exposed, screw on the slide hammer & a few light taps pull the piston pin. The piston pins had been hammering the pin clips, raising a ridge inside the piston pin bores. A bag of five 5/16 Hilti anchors - $3.56 w/tax.

Master cylinders will wear a bell shape in the area of highest pressure as the piston moves over time. More so with an aluminum m/c than cast iron m/c. This allows fluid to bleed around the piston diminishing the hydraulic advantage so that it becomes harder to stop. Never rebuild an aluminum m/c, always replace it. Brake hoses skive(pare thin layers) from fluid eroding the rubber lining & weakening the hose over time. Your floaties in the brake fluid are likely bits of rubber, plus worn metal/piston cups from the m/c . Like others have said this allows the hoses to expand reducing the effective braking force. Change all your brake hoses & replace the m/c if it's the original. Overhaul your calipers & wheel cylinders. You need a good seal to get maximum force. Check your rotors & drums for hard, discolored spots too since they've been so hot - glazed surfaces on the linings too. I've been doing auto repair since '72. What good is going fast if you can't stop:eek:

This 87 California SPFI EA82 GL d/r has TWO cats, one at the Y behind the engine & a 2nd cat just behind the trans. It also has the "light truck" category emissions sticker under the hood - a term rendered meaningless by the newest emissions laws here.

Replaced the rear cat converter on my 87 GL 4WD wagon today. It had developed a really annoying rattle in the exhaust, especially when just warming up, that would quiet down when exhaust was hot. Pulled the rear pipe with cat, shook it hard & the biscuit came loose inside. Cheaply made cats just don't last. The biscuit was so loose it turned sideways inside the body. Chopped it out right next to the cat body. Replaced it with a Magnaflow 91004 (same length+width+depth as original but 2" in & out). The 91004 has only one heat shield so I liberated one from the old cat, tack welded that to the new cat. Aligned everything in the exhaust, tacked it together then removed the assembly for final welding. Put assembly back in, checked alignment so nothing hits & cinched down the hardware. Found out later that the Magnaflow 38104 will also work for this application. No more noises like chicken bones in the garbage disposal.