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Been a long time. Had to replace speedo head in the cluster as oil from the trans moved up the speedo cable & into the drive & driven speedo cups. Erratic speed reading & always when most inconvenient, of course. It's talked about here: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/93332-speedometer-intermittantly-goes-crazy/ Pulled speedo cable, flushed out inside & cable with brake cleaner then blew out with air. Ordered a new cable, Pioneer # CA-3108 & they're available from Summit, 48.75 " length so that will accommodate higher lifts . My original cable worked just fine with 4 inch lift. Brother P-Touch mileage labels to satisfy my insurance Co when comes time to renew. Cleaned the heater fan switch contacts & greased them with electronics anti-oxidizer grease. Inside stationary contacts were green with oxides. No fan action at all. Also deleted the 60k mile EGR switch while I had the cluster apart. Frankenmotor to be installed has no EGR. Why have another light to worry about? Right turn arrow in cluster points at EGR trip switch. 2 screws & its gone. EGR trip switch below...another Cacafornia smog relic, https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/79307-egr-light/ Decision to replace the whole speedo head was because of cracked drive gear in head input. Might affect odometer readings if it shattered, eh? Use electronics contact cleaner only - white body is styrene plastic & melts if you use anything else.

This came back to bite you eh? " #1) upon test assembly of the trans, it seems there is something amiss in the way either 1st or 2nd gear sets mesh. Something in the profile of the teeth, not any visible diffeerence though. It's a mismatch set. This is why you should never mismatch gearsets. There is a rythmic roughness felt when input shaft is turned. I disassembled, counted teeth, measured gear diameters, all seems to match up. Donor shaft came from an identical D/R 3.9 4wd 5-spd. IDK, It's my on;y option for now. I went ahead and put it together, and I will run it for a bit to test the suspension, and I'll prepared another good D/R for when this one inevitablely craps out. " Was going to build a D/R trans for myself so now I know not to mix gearsets. Although not a happy outcome, thanks for sharing this.

Yeah, think that those EMPI axles work best within the normal angles of an un-lifted Subie. But the inner races are not the best steels nor hardened well against wear. Maybe my one EMPI is just "finding its groove". Maybe your axles will too. Had a pic on here of high angle wear on those but Fotosuckit sucked the air out of that room.

If it has power steering it could be shaft seal leaking in the pump. And/or the pressure side fitting on the pump is loose & leaking. Had each of those happen. Oil on underside of the hood each time. Like others have implied, you'll constantly be fixing things as they fail. Parts are becoming scarce.

What did you do about the nasty front end vibrations? Change back to your modded inner DOJs? Or was that the rear tires rubbing?

My guess would be WWII pill boxes for coastal defense.

I'm been running an EMPI front axle on pass side of my GL wagon for 2 yrs, one that I had re-booted already because boot cooked & tore above the cat conv. I think I reversed the inner race for more reach inside the cup. It vibrates some still but not as bad as when new. Adding to X-member with a 1 inch spacer under 3 inch lift block helped CV angles too. 4 inch lift kit plus 1 inch spacer to help angles. Still carry a rebooted OEM axle on long trips though. Like from LA to Tucson & back for 1 k miles last weekend.

P40 warhawk tiger shark nose art....if the eyes were more forward. https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=d3dpXffLNIrb-gTT0aqAAQ&q=WWII+tiger+shark+nose+art&oq=WWII+tiger+shark+nose+art&gs_l=img.3...87909.97825..99824...0.0..0.216.2210.24j0j1......0....1..gws-wiz-img.......35i39j0i30j0i67j0j0i8i30j0i24.dxRKKmOC7F0&ved=0ahUKEwi348LZqKvkAhWKrZ4KHdOoChAQ4dUDCAY&uact=5

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/95237-how-do-i-mimic-a-vss/ Post a pic of back of your 88 GL cluster so we helpers can compare them.

Notice the other hole in back of speedo with one angled & one straight barrier around it? Maybe Zippy needs to look for a threaded hole connection in there - then bridge that to the nearest screw on pc board with some 16-22 ga wire. Then ohmmeter test for VSS by slowly spinning the speedo again .

How about rolling a piece of pipe or round bar stock through the gap again & again until you have the clearance you want? Increase size of round stock in increments of course.

I have an OEM axle here with new outer CVJ that may fit your DL. New boots & grease on inner joint. Look it over to see if its a match. PM me if interested. $25 plus shipping. Grinding while driving could be brakes too, especially if wheel brgs have been failing for awhile or hub splines are loose on CVJ. Causes pads to wear unevenly. Look at your front tire to see if it looks tipped in at the top vs the other side. Jack up the car, grab tire then check for play. 6 & 12 o'clock then 3 & 9 o'clock.

Valve height must be checked whenever a valve grind is done. That margin of stem height ensures lifters are operating within internal limits. Sink the valves too deep & you must replace valve seats. Grind too much off the faces & then must replace the valves. If cams were reground to smaller base circle then the stem heights could be more to compensate. Theoretically, by rocker ratio times difference in base circles radii - stock to reground. Probably could be checked in the car with a straightedge & calipers as long as you already knew dimension from gasket surface to spring pockets. Just do it right the first time. YMMV.

IF the valve stem heights are too high hydraulic lifters won't have any travel left to cushion cam profile. This could lead to valves not seating 100% of the time & warping the valve heads. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131629-ea82-valve-train-question/?tab=comments#comment-1121659 Have machine shop double check your valve stem heights to be sure. Machine shop that did my work never had to replace or ream guides but did overlook valve stem heights. See attachments for specs.

You know I'm taking notes Dan. Already have rear cradle, R180 diff & 2005 sti axles plus more. http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-Plasma-Circle-Cutter-_p_45.html

+1 https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/tinnitus/symptoms-causes/syc-20350156

https://www.proformance.com.au/single-post/2014/08/15/COAST-TO-COAST-RUNNING-DIFFS-BACKWARDS-OR-UPSIDE-DOWN

Well then, wouldn't it be wiser to invest in a heavier duty auto transaxle such as Porche 911 Cayenne or a HD race 4 spd manual transaxle? https://ranchotransaxles.com/pbs-transaxles/ Scroll down - they manufacture transaxles with Subaru bellhousings. Monies invested in special purpose R&P for 4EAT could be spent on HD race transaxle already available. As has already been stated in this thread, reverse driving a FWD R&P doesn't last.

https://www.kennedyeng.com/subaru-vanagon Scroll down to automatic adapters. Anything wrong with auto trans as supplied for newer VW vehicle(s) to also transplant in your bus?

4th picture in this listing for Dorman 'tailshaft': https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Driveshaft-Assembly-for-Subaru-1994-85-Dorman-936-934-STD-Trans/401257355418?epid=203116132&hash=item5d6ccd589a:g:PnsAAOSwFMdaU~6j https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-68555-936-934.aspx?year=1987&make=Subaru&model=GL&parttype=Drive%20Shaft&origin=YMM

Yeah, it is one piece but if a one piece center brg isn't readily available then perhaps you could take yours apart. Then replace the rubber 'doughnut' & brg with something similar from a Nissan product for instance. Then tack the steel 'girdle' back together - slowly - small tack weld at a time so as not to cook the rubber doughnut. My plate is full with putting a 73 Chevy K20 truck back together for tow vehicle to move. IF you find a genuine one, let us know where.

Ball bearing, shielded that is, could be had if you take apart tailshaft first. Just match up to 620x brg. But without the rubber doughnut to know shape, OD, thickness etc in hand to compare to some other make, I don't know. Looked at some late 70's early 80's Nissan center supports which are either 30 mm or 35 mm ID. Subaru center brg has that steel mount girdle around it. You'd have to drill out all the spot welds, split it apart to dissect it.

Yeah, fuel recovery system operates at a partial vacuum IIRC. Depends on fuel purge solenoid valve to either vent positive pressure to charcan or vent fumes to intake with vac. That plastic bladder is for fumes to condense then drain back to tank. Otherwise liquid fuel could get sucked into intake. Emission vacuum hose stock should do you well. Don't forget the little lines connected at tank.

There's a plastic tank behind rear panel near tank that can develop cracks & leaks, BUT, I would check out the small vacuum hoses connecting things together back there first. When you get that tank out pull a partial vacuum with a hand held pump vacuum test to see if it holds vacuum well for 5-10 minutes. Mine held for hours without leaking. Had that fuel smell 3 yrs ago inside the car & it was the little hoses that had rotted in LA smog. Mityvac is what I used.

1991 Pontiac Sunfire Quad 4 drivetrain would be more than enough: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quad_4_engine#LD2