czny

Yeah, fuel recovery system operates at a partial vacuum IIRC. Depends on fuel purge solenoid valve to either vent positive pressure to charcan or vent fumes to intake with vac. That plastic bladder is for fumes to condense then drain back to tank. Otherwise liquid fuel could get sucked into intake. Emission vacuum hose stock should do you well. Don't forget the little lines connected at tank.

There's a plastic tank behind rear panel near tank that can develop cracks & leaks, BUT, I would check out the small vacuum hoses connecting things together back there first. When you get that tank out pull a partial vacuum with a hand held pump vacuum test to see if it holds vacuum well for 5-10 minutes. Mine held for hours without leaking. Had that fuel smell 3 yrs ago inside the car & it was the little hoses that had rotted in LA smog. Mityvac is what I used.

1991 Pontiac Sunfire Quad 4 drivetrain would be more than enough: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quad_4_engine#LD2

Marvel Mystery oil in fuel tank & crankcase with fresh fuel in tank. Helps a gummy engine with top end lubrication. After draining old fuel tank & lines first of course.

Give Photobucket none of your monies. They held thousands of enthusiasts hostage for their own picture files across many websites. These days its about paying for a photo hosting site if you want to share your stuff. Flickr, imgur, imageshack, etc. Search & find one you like, or one that is popular here at USMB.

Nice try but those are for FWD - 2WD only vehicles. Big difference in spring perch height between them.

Strip down the distrib to a bare shaft, fill stripped hole with silver braze on low flame. MAPP gas works best. https://www.amazon.com/Harris-Safety-Silv-Silver-Solder-Brazing/dp/B0713Y6V2F/ref=pd_cp_469_1?pd_rd_w=dDcKR&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=PG9KRVHQ4X65KNR3N839&pd_rd_r=78b87253-97b1-11e9-9c69-1d3c8f2acdb3&pd_rd_wg=iyhgk&pd_rd_i=B0713Y6V2F&psc=1&refRID=PG9KRVHQ4X65KNR3N839 Drill & tap new threads in a drill press to make sure hole is square to shaft & where you want it.

Splined hubs & stubs are always counted on the major diameters.

Yeah, they were originators of the "original" Aussie locker. https://www.torqmasters.com/ Have a TorqMaster lunchbox locker for my 83 Chevy Dana 60 1ton front axle. Will have to check the box & instruction sheet for country of origin & manufacturer. Somewhere out there in the world of off road there's a video showing the turning radius difference of open rear diff VS rear locker on tight trails. Tight turns are a strong reason for turning brake steering.

Here's that thread Dan...Lokka Lockers were the ones that took the money and ran. **&%$$!!! https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/165393-lokka-r160-locker-interest-need-50-guys-300-a-piece/

NO. Ring & pinion are a matched set.

Buy or rent a two wheel tow dolly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKWIKwgSk1U Used ones from U-Haul, etc may still be serviceable after a little maintenance.

This^^^ Bottom of mine was cracked in places as you can see. From Nov 2017. 4 inch lift caused too much strain on intake boot.

Right. Two each trailing arm, #9 in link & two each for the slotted toe-in plate mounted outboard on the cross member, #8 in link. https://www.subarupartsamerica.com/parts/1989/SUBARU/GL/Turbo/?siteid=216122&vehicleid=45477&diagram=758260 Four bushing halves & two tubes per side.

http://www.superprousa.com/where-to-buy/

Front bushings https://www.ebay.com/itm/SuperPro-Control-Arm-Lower-Inner-Bushing-Kit-Front-for-1981-1986-Subaru-Brumby/264304776028?hash=item3d89cad35c:g:Vt0AAOSwaANcyNN8 https://www.ebay.com/itm/SuperPro-Control-Arm-Lower-Inner-Bushing-Kit-Front-for-1981-1986-Subaru-Brumby/283468751142?hash=item42000de126:g:U9oAAOSwEZdcyNK1 Rear bushings https://www.ebay.com/itm/SuperPro-Axle-Alignment-Trailing-Arm-Bushing-Kit-Rear-for-1979-1994-Subaru-Leone/283468762117?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D57921%26meid%3Dd5984c730b32448385cc2bb4439a6a57%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D173716101380%26itm%3D283468762117&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134590-diy-bushing-replacement/ There are Superpro bushings still available but you must be patient for them from Aus. Search for Superpro in this forum. Look here too. 5th post first page. Energy Suspension bushings. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131364-87-gl-4wd-wagon-czny/

Yes, just cut it out, lube new hose end with some silicone spray & insert it to same depth. Check that it relieves out away from booster first by blowing through it. Don't want to put it in backward & again have no boost.

When you go to replace that vacuum booster line, be sure to save the check valve inserted in hose near booster. Put it in same place in new hose. Feel the hose for a hard lump - you'll find it.

How did you install these 7207s, face to face with thrust sides pointed into the hubs?

Must've been fuel varnish from sitting so long.

Is the throttle return spring intact & in its place? Something allowing the throttle butterfly to move freely?

" I was able to get the old axle off the diff very easily, and using the BFH and wooden block method I got the stub shaft driven back out through the hub. " Have a set of these & they are better quality than most available locally: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Drive-E10-Deep-E-Torx-Socket-Trident-T120610-Free-P-P/122072255192?epid=11017011463&hash=item1c6c12cad8:g:2TAAAOSwARZXo2We

"Still have to cut the remains of the bearings off. I am a bit stuck, pardon the pun, on now removing the stub shaft from the axle since after 30 years together they seem well accustomed to staying that way. Any ideas? I have thought about cutting the axle where it bells out but I don't know if that would give me the access I want to then press the stub out? " https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/168762-saving-rust-seized-ea-rear-axle-stubs-cvs/?tab=comments#comment-1398686

Agreed. Stopping combustion gasses is the job of the fire ring on the head gasket. Once that is compromised its all downhill.