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https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47562-fix-for-worn-and-sloppy-shifter-linkage/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/86472-short-shifter-donepicture-added/ Somewhere there's a pic of how to shorten the shift, adding to lower rod length below the pivot.

Yes it is a 5 spd dual range, but, oil dipstick & speedo drive are missing. Because of the grassy debris on it & in it(stuff in speedo drive hole), I'd be a little skeptical about condition of gearsets inside. Better drain the oil into a clean pan & see what comes out.

Check out MJM National for terminals. May have something close to what you need: http://www.ebaystores.com/MJM-National-Inc/Metri-pack-480-/_i.html?_fsub=4139725013&_sid=3624523&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 If not check out Newark, Mouser or Allied Electronics, just be aware they have minimum orders.

Everything looks great! Get some wiring harness spiral wrap at Homeless Despot or auto parts store & wrap those brake lines to protect against flying rocks.

I have the SJR 4 inch lift picture instructions on DVD. These were for the older all folded steel lift components but should be what you need. I'll make you a copy & send it if you PM your mailing address.

https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-A0910AS100-Engine-Block-Heater/dp/B00IGZQU1E Get the 35*F porcelain t-stat adapter there too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006U2HD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Agreed. Since dropping front crossmember another 1" on my 4" SJR lift I've had zero front axle problems with torn boots or hitting axles. Moving OEM axle small end boot clamps to position closer to inner DOJ helps too. YMMV.

That may be true for 2wd rear shocks on a 4wd GL, but my experience with 2wd front struts on my 87 4wd GL with correct 4wd rear shocks was to lower the front end. Already made that mistake a few yrs ago. Wasn't paying close enough attention to the 'fine detail' in RockAuto descriptions when ordering KYB front struts. That was just before KYB 4wd struts dried up. Chose to order Monroe 4wd front struts when I added 4 inch SJR lift.

Subarule might try contacting a warehouse like Hanson Distributing: http://www.hansondistributing.com/ Or another like it nearer to home in WA state. Find an independent parts store to do business with, not an O'Reilly's or other big box store. Someone with a paper catalog - not an e-catalog. Hanson supplied for a few of the independent auto parts stores in SoCal that I've dealt with for many years. Ernie's Auto Parts, which used to be in another location, is within the same warehouse, but since the experienced senior parts manager retired it's just not the same.

Is this the seller on Ebay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Subaru-DL-GL-GL-10-Loyale-New-Pair-Front-KYB-Excel-G-Shocks-Struts/323681662310?hash=item4b5cee3566:g:HikAAOSwYwZcWWU~ Another seller, bapperformance(wonder if seller 'borrowed' from old BAP-Geon name): https://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-Shocks-Struts-Strut-233022/163577113805?epid=75415354&hash=item2615f4accd:g:RlwAAOSwOzBcfF6p https://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-Shocks-Struts-Strut-233023/173820709585?epid=74420540&hash=item2878858ad1:g:SJYAAOSwyQJcfF3U If so, these are for 2wd cars, not 4wd. You'll lose ride height with 2wd struts. Search for Monroe or Sachs front struts.

Unfortunately, no longer listed in current online KYB catalog. Not even the 2wd struts for 1986 GL. https://showmetheparts.com/kyb/

Take joint pin out from diff end & see if you can pull the joint off the diff stub. You'll have to collapse the drive axle some & it may take some hammering on the joint cup to free it. Don't worry about hammering on the joint cups. Those cups are really tough steel alloy. They have to be to survive all the action going on while propelling the car. Once you get axle off at diff end, remove boot cover, band clamps & boot then fish for wire retainer at top edge of cup. Pry it loose with small screwdriver then innards with come free. Tapping the stub out won't take too much hammering if you use that square head sledge but protect the stub end with a block of wood.

Found a way to save these hard-to-come-by pieces from death by rust. Start by removing rear axle & seized stub axle as a unit from rear trailing arm. Hammer out with block of wood & BFH or dead blow hammer Or my favorite though some will object - a ball peen in stub end & 4 lb drilling hammer. Next remove axle shaft from inner CV/DOJ cup. DOJs are easiest. Boot, outer lock ring, then pull everything else as one. Swab out old grease with rags. CVs require a few more steps, like rocking inner race & cage to one side, removing 2 balls, back the other way then last 2. Then work cage & inner race out - they do come out. Notice hammer marks on CV. Futile attempts to get the bugger off the stub. Note difference in how cup plugs are installed. CVs - plug hollow side up. DOJs - hollow side down. Use an awl to punch a starter hole in cup plug then screw a 1 inch or longer #10 sheet metal screw in which will lift the plug out of the recess. This exposes the end of stub axle. You might have to give seized parts a good soaking overnight with Kroil or other penetrating spray before press work. Install bearing clamshell around DOJ/CV just above dust shield, then place this in between heavy duty plates in 20 ton press. Use 4-6 inch piece of 5/8-3/4 inch round stock with ends squared up on end of stub to press with. Not too long or it may become angled & then bend easily. Plug for swagoffroad products: http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-MACHINED-ARBOR-PRESS-PLATES-PAIR_p_7.html Pump press until either stub starts moving or feels like all 20T pressure is there. Rap on outside of cup a little with hammer to jar it. Helps align things for removal. Relieve pressure & turn cup some. Rinse & repeat until stub comes loose. Did this for alexbuoy & one of his took everything my old Enco press could muster. Finally came loose with a loud bang causing everything on press to jump. Bead blast or wire brush stubs. Hammer holes in cup plugs flat then soft solder holes shut. Clean up flux on plugs. Install with Permatex No. 1 or similar. Remember DOJs - cup plugs down. CVs - cup plugs up Apply anti-seize to splines after re-installing in rear arms. Both ends. Don't forget the rubber washers on short ends of stub axles. Hope this helps save a few axles & stubs in the future. Parts for EA cars are getting scarce.

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/168698-rear-wheel-bearings-ring-nut-tool/ IF the outer CV cup is stuck on the stub axle, there is a way to get it loose without destroying the CV. You'll need access to a 20 ton hydraulic press with stout press plates & a large clamshell bearing separator. Wait a bit & I'll get a 'How-To" post up. Here ya go... https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/168762-saving-rust-seized-ea-rear-axle-stubs-cvs/

Disconnect your MAF, clean contacts like I meantioned above then gently bend open side of each contact a little with toothpick or other small pointed tool. Idea is to make sure all contacts are clean & tight. Do the same with TPS connector. Do not clean MAF with MAF cleaner, it may cause more problems. Just inspect it for broken sensors or corrosion. Clean IAC valve connector well. Pull hose off IAC valve & spray some Seafoam in open tube of valve. Start engine & give it a few revs. Check & clean your engine main connector(s) at DS near DS valve cover. Same thing as others - no green corrosion, scale or dirt. Your ECM is working with a meager 5V at best from these sensors, some much less. Any corrosion will add resistance causing false sensor readings.

Yes, coolant will drain from there. Drain some coolant from radiator, catching it in a pan. Use Permatex No.2 non-hardening sealant on the threads. There should be a sealing washer on the old one so just clean that & manifold surface well, flip washer over, add sealant & install. If you still have running problems, get a can of contact cleaner, disconnect all sensors & clean the connectors well. I've had trouble with road salt & water causing poor connection on my 87 GL since driving thru PNW. You could be chasing your tail throwing parts at it if there are poor connections. Ask me how I know....

Looked at his webpage 2 days ago & it appears he still is making adapters, just don't know if its Subaru EJ-Toyota W56 trans adapters. https://www.billsautofab.com/ Contact him?

Anyone else here remember Bill Hincher?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Handle-Lubricator-Lubricating-Lubrication-Oil-Pump-Punching-Milling-Machine/113644515858?hash=item1a75bdb212:g:F4cAAOSwJp1cQBkA Pull handle before driving ....plumb 1/4" tubing to top & mount on side of tunnel

https://www.autopartsearch.com/catalog-6/vehicle/nissan-datsun/1986/nissan-pickup/transfer-case-assembly Yeah, I know how rare as hens teeth those are now. BUT, just last week when I posted that row52 there was one in Phoenix AZ. Gone now. Actually there are some out there but you may have to go out of state for Nissan Xfer cases. Don't overlook Nissan D10, 620 trucks.

Silver polishing creams & pastes work well on plastics also, without buying the kits. https://www.amazon.com/Wrights-Silver-Cleaner-Polish-Aluminum/dp/B000KKIKOS I've used Wrights cream polish after successively finer grits of sandpaper to resurface plexiglass after cutting to shape.

You might even find a 4 cyl 94 Chevy S10 truck one barrel throttle body & make an adapter plate, use a mag pickup EA distributor & lock the advance, TBI harness & 7747 ECM from a small block V8 90-91 Chevy truck. Add a 4 wire heated O2 sensor in exhaust wired to relay power/ign started. Get map sensor, ignition module & coil, etc from the 94 S10. Strip down harness to basics, tie both injector pigtails in parallel. Single barrel, single injector. https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/432269-working-stock-tbi-harness-conversions-picture-intensive.html There is far more support for modding GM V8 ECMs on forums like Gearhead EFI for remapping the prom. Its been done many times. Data logging first after you get it running: http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?7559-1991-chevy-dually-chip http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/forumdisplay.php?25-Old-School-EFI http://www.gearhead-efi.com/gm-ecm-pcm-conversion/tbi-efi-conversion.html Example, a TBI converted Toyota 4X4: https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/895975-22r-tbi.html And on Binder planet: http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/toyota-22r-gm-tbi.116623/

Suzuki Samurai, 1984-88 Nissan720 PU King Cab, etc 4x4. Yup, solid mounts from center section of rear mustache bar of an older 240Z, 200sx, front mounts AND save front R180 diff + axles from 720 PU in flavor of your choice like 3.90 R&P or 4.11 R&P. Or fab your own solid mount. Just a plate with 2 holes welded to lower X-member at the right height. On 720 Nissan PUs VIN plate is on passenger side of engine compartment. Lower RH corner has diff info. RB39 or RB41 is what you're looking for Nissan used RC for R200 diffs & RB for R180 diffs in most '80s-'90s vehicles. https://row52.com/home

Likewise, I made my own tool for the job. All tool steel, 2 pieces welded together. Big wrench handle to apply a BFH to when needed.

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/20721-solid-axle-lifted-subaru/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/135063-2nd-transfercase-rigs/ There's other on here looking to do the same thing bratman18, like alexbuoy. And myself later after EJ conversion is finally done. Already have a Nissan Xfer case & driveshafts. There's a thread somewhere here in past that talks about moving lower x-member forward 2 inches.