6 Star

You're saying it won't turn over at all now? If that is the case check the battery power and connections at the battery and ground connections. Sometimes bad Ground and/or bad Battery Connections are the demon... Put the correct size socket on the crank pulley bolt and spin the engine over with a big ratchet or cheater bar to see that nothing has locked up or started to stick in the rotating assembly of the engine. I know its metric, but 7/8 fits well. Once the car is turning over and or starting again: Check that you are getting spark at all 4 ends of the spark plug wires, and that they are in the right order as el_freddo says. If that all checks out; maybe you still have a problem with dirty fuel? How old is the gas in the tank? Sometimes a dose of Stabil, Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner, Heat, and/or all of the above work. Also, on 3rd gens (EA82s) there are TWO fuel filters... you only mention replacing one.

You talkin' 'bout the Mustache Bar or the Torsion Bar? Have seen the Mustache Bar Bushings repaired/replaced with re-purposed strips of thick rubber, with a hole cut through the middle of them. Edit: ...there isn't a torsion bar in EA82s, D'oh... You're talking about part # 9, rear trailing arm? https://www.subaruparts.com/v-1992-subaru-loyale--base--1-8l-h4-gas/rear-suspension--rear-suspension

Makes Sense... Will have to look at some wiring diagrams, and just look at the two vehicle's setups side by side. For this purely aesthetic mod, it will have to be off in the future when more important tasks have been completed. However it is nice to get the thought-train going on these fun projects.

Anybody have any experience converting the EA81 Quad Headlight setup over to the EA81 Single Headlights with Cyclops? Or know of a writeup? Believe that I have everything needed: Single Headlight Core Support Single Headlight Buckets/Bulbs Single Headlight Bezels with Turn Signals and Pigtails Third Eye (Cyclops) Full Assembly with Pigtail Third Eye Grill Relays that sit on the passenger side (RH) strut tower Third Eye Switch from factory that's used with the HighBeams on. Part that's confusing me is how the wiring goes from twin lights, one for low and one for high beam, to single units that do both functions. Guessing that the turn signal wiring that goes to the front bumper will have to be rerouted so they will go to the corner flashers of the Single Headlight Style. And then there is adding the Third Eye to the equation... The easiest method in my head; Take the entire front harness from an '82. Place that harness in the body of the '86. (thats the year of the EA81 chassis its going into.) Not sure if the connectors between those years are the same or if they were changed? I have an '82 that is badly rusted and is more like a donor vehicle. Ideally would take the cyclops light setup from it and put it on the '86 which is still structurally sound.

Some photos: Fun Fact: Usually you have to remove these with an Impact Screwdriver, just like a Door Catch.

I kindly ask that you make sure the headlights are positioned correctly after this mod... Its bad enough that modern cars are legally running around now with LED, Halogen, BeDazzling Blinding Bling lights. Its great, you can see where you are going... just don't blind me in the process... P.S. Added photos to my first post

Screws came in... The threaded section of the screw is about .5" long, and under 1/8" wide. The cap of the screw is 1/8" deep, and .5" wide at the top. The Phillips head pattern is of the slightly larger variety. Larger than a #2 but not the giant Phillips... Off the top of my head, remember that Subaru likes to use 1.25 thread pitch on their fine-threaded stuff like this. Not sure what the other metric dimension is... something like M10 but that would be larger width... hopefully someone better versed in the metric bolt sizes chimes in.

Was only a matter of time before the internet-article-makers put that baby in the limelight.

Ordered a Qty. of eight of the screws through Subaru this morning. They will be in by tomorrow, and cost a little over a dollar total after tax. The washers are on back order and won't be available until June.

Glad to post this sort of info if it can help people keep these classic Subaru's on the road. They are like energizer bunnies as long as they are maintained. My dad got me started on cars at a young age. We both figured out that we just couldn't trust other people (shops) working on our cars. You go in for one thing and then they either fix it and sabotage something else so you return quickly or they don't fix it right. Or they take your vehicle on a joyride and beat on it... crashing it in one of my friend's experiences. Needless to say now anything that needs fixing gets fixed by myself or my family. If we don't already know how we learn.

Thanks moosens. Thinking back, these screws that I ordered previously for the Brat, they came with the "star" variety of lock washer. Probably the only type of lock washer that would work with the chamfer. Let's see if Subaru can still provide for us here...

Yup, still humbly in need of the numbers for those cap screw/bolts that are countersunk. Lots of knowledge in those articles posted on that page... like those screws that hold the stays need to be tightened to 9-17 ft. lbs. of torque. But no part numbers. It may be folly, but if they are still available that would be great. All I need is a part number... otherwise the people behind the counter will wonder what kind of a rock I crawled out from... what decade I'm stuck in... trying to tell them about some part for some car that they have no memory of... but chances are the same screw is used somewhere else on their shiny new 2021 Subaru Space Shuttle... at least it is in comparison to our old relics... Its a '85 Brat GL. Tailgate Stay hardware. Should be 8 of those cap screws that hold the stays.

Thank you. Lets see if those elusive part numbers I'm searching for are between those pages...

Factory Fuel Door on the 2nd gen Brat was in need of "tuning". Oiled the hinge, as it was binding and wanting to bend the door itself. Once the door was open, oiled the spring etc that controls the turn-knob-handle. Noticed that the catch on the knob wouldn't seat behind the catch of the "jam". The catch by the Spring was bent, so used a combo of pliers to hold the unit still and smaller pliers to grip and bend the catch back out. Someone had been trying to jam the door closed without turning the handle... Now the Factory Brat Fuel door is working as it should.

"Everything went better than expected."

What is a good online source? Needing a copy of my own...

Tell us what you've been up to, with your old-skool Subies. Here we go: Loyale's: Changed out the A/C and Alternator Belts on the Sedan. Whoever maintained it before had SOA Subaru Belts on there... Part numbers: SOA543100 SOA543102 One, but not the other, are still available from Subaru. A literal chunk was missing from one of the belts, so when turning and putting load on the P/S Pump, it would catch that spot of the belt and then slide producing an interesting squealing sound. Picked up Gates PoweRated (green) belts. Part numbers: 6839 (.5" x 39") 6845 (.5" x 45") Working well, however noticed a lot of green dust around the area of the belts now... probably need to retention the belts now that they have less memory of being in the package. Since I had some EA82 Wagon factory rear coilovers, I wanted to see how much of a lift would be gained over the factory Sedan rear coilovers. Laying on the ground next to each other is a visible difference, the Wagon Coilover setup being Longer over all. (Wagon Set is from older GL model that still had adjustable height. Currently on the lowest setting from factory.) On the car is a noticeable difference as well. The rear was "jacked up" like a hot-rod... drove it like this for a while but then decided to put the sedan coilovers back on to keep the rake even and stress out the rear CV's less. Stock Sedan Coilovers: Wagon Coilovers Both photos were taken after driving and settling in the suspension. Swapped out the brake pads and shoes on all corners. The rear shoes were still the factory ones with the Fuji logo and painted in the same color as the body. (Onyx Metalic) This is somewhat common on these older Subie's with under 200k or so. Depends on how the car was treated. My dad rebuilt the P/S pump on his Loyale wagon, as it was puking all over. Kit part number from Subaru: 31263GA470 $37.28 before tax. Had everything except for one of the o-rings on one of the inlets or outlets, but was able to make do. Replaced a couple Water Pumps on the Loyale's as they were getting noisy and weepy. Can still get these through Napa and the similar parts stores. Funny the box the pump comes in from Napa has a GR third-gen Impreza on it for decoration. 2nd Gen's: The tailpipe on the hatch finally needed attention. Right where the muffler pipe was welded to the axle-back section, it had just rusted away to where there were threads of metal just on one side holding the (now almost two) sections apart. This allowed the muffler to swing around under cornering and bumps. Wiggled it off the rest of the way by hand and then did the right thing and just added a length of straight-pipe... exhaust is carried out past the body and now there's more Subie rumble. Cost? $Priceless. Also on the hatch: Was driving, then stopped at my destination, and then noticed steam venting from under the hood. "Great..." Popped the hood, sure enough, it was the soft coolant bypass hose that goes from the intake manifold to the top of the block. A tear had opened up just above where it was clamped to the nip on the block, sending a stream of coolant forward onto the radiator, hood, and in a puddle around it's area of the block. (Did a nice job cleaning the oil in that spot) More of an annoying leak if anything... so filled the radiator back up with water and then limped it back home several miles on the freeway and backroads, keeping the revs low as possible. That little hose, and it is small, like vacuum line size almost, was $20 some dollars through Napa, plus it would be a week-out shipping from East-Coast! So I said yeah no, I don't need their pricy custom fit line, when I can make my own. Removed the distributor, as it was in the way. Plucked out the old hose, measured it, and then installed a length of hose I had laying around that used to be fuel-line. Put the disty back in and hey, just saved $20 and a week's worth of waiting. So what have you guys done recently to your Subies? Searched until my eyes were sore, but couldn't find the OG thread started way back when...

Was surprised at some of these parts that are still available on their site. Here is their list of Tailgate numbers; #1 Gate 751811020 Discontinued #2 Cover 751816020 Inner, center. Discontinued #3 Cover 751816130 Inner, side. Discontinued #4 Handle, Outside 763021120 Discontinued #5 Ornament 793011490 $16.79 ADD TO CART #6 Lock 751850000 Lock, Right Discontinued #6 Lock 751850010 Lock, Left Discontinued #7 Lever 763031000 $28.26 ADD TO CART #8 Striker 751818000 Discontinued #9 Buffer 763051000 Buffer, Right Discontinued #9 Buffer 763051010 Buffer, Left Discontinued #10 Support 763042001 Discontinued #11 Hinge 751822000 Discontinued

Was searching for a thread with this same title, started many years ago in the Old Gen Forum. Must have had hundreds of pages... Search turns up nothing now. To stay on topic... last "new" generation Subie I touched was the family's '95 Legacy L Wagon. It needed nothing but a wash before transferring to a new owner. Now we own nothing but old-gens... the Legacy was the odd one out in the Fam.

Never had the luxury of a Factory Service Manual from Subaru... Wish I had one for the Second and Third generations. Would be nice to find new screws, otherwise I'll just have to dig around in my Subaru bolt bin for used ones. Skill test... can you get it in without stripping?

Looking at SubaruParts dot com or the similar Subaru branded sites, they don't even show the "Loyale" as an option on their drop-down-lists. However using search engines and searching for example a Brat or Loyale part and then including "Subaru Parts" will bring up these older vehicles on their site. Did this for the Brat Tailgate... Trying to find the part number for the Counter-Sunk Phillips Cap Screw/Bolts that connect part number 10 (The support Stays) to both the Gate and the Body. They list all the other part numbers but the hardware I'm looking for... https://www.subaruparts.com/v-1984-subaru-brat--gl--1-8l-h4-gas/body--tailgate Ordered these through Subaru before back when building up my '85 Brat... Now having a hard time finding them. Have heard that someone at the Oregon Dealership has The Book with all the numbers. The nuts here at my local Subaru threw theirs away years ago. Also tried using the Search for this info... got about 5000 results... most of which had nothing to do with what I searched. Tried narrowing it down and the results went to 30,000. Narrowed it down further and went to zero results. Seems the Search prefers the latest posts and the older ones just fall into the clutter.

...Oh man. Getting off topic here but I had a fling with three 850's for a time. A '68 pre face-lift Coupe A '68 pre face-lift Spider And a '71 Sport Spider. Man were they hawt to look at... but that is about all the time I had for them. The combination of Rust and lack of care in their previous life forced me to sell them all. The Coupe was the most painful for me to separate with. Long story short, Subaru's are more rewarding to work on. And less rusty!

I spy a Dent-Side Ferd P/U to the Left. And a Square-Body Chev Bed to the Right... Love the Grill on that '76, one of the more sporty looking Grills from that generation.

Well if the OP ain't confused enough... Lots of ways to get the job done, depends on what you have available. Those notches on the pinch weld of the rocker panel are where the factory subaru emergency jack go... true it is made to handle the weight of the car as long as The Rust hasn't gotten to it.

Kind of crazy that subaru offered 3 different 2-door "coupe" style cars at the time. There was the traditional "Fastback" looking Coupe... The "HardTop" Coupe, which looked very similar to the fastback minus quarter windows... And there was the "Two-Door-Sedan" to compliment the Four-Door Sedan... The one posted in the JY above looks like the two-door-sedan...