6 Star

http://www.indysworld.com/subaru/gallery/wheels/wheels.html Someone in the older-gen forum was asking about wheel options, and I posted up the link above. Nice site by McBrat showing different 4x140 wheels. In the top section it highlights the differences in spoke wheels. 1st gen Brat had lots of wheel options from the factory... For Spoke wheels it could have come with the standard "rounded spoke" white wagon wheels, or the coveted Jackmans. Steel wheels were also an option for those not wanting to spend as much. Mag wheels were available for those that wanted to splurge. It really depends on what look you want for the Brat...

Just as others said below, I use the frame rails, crossmembers, etc.... for the exact reason of your last point, seen the carnage that hack shops can produce on the pinch weld of the rocker. No jack mods required... simple block of wood so the undercarriage does not get scraped up.

Ya don't jack from that! Thats the rocker panel... Further under the car you will see actual frame, use a piece of wood as a buffer between it and the jack. Or lift from the crossmembers, lower control arms...

http://www.indysworld.com/subaru/gallery/wheels/wheels.html There ya go. McBrat set up that awesome site.

Old broom handle works well...

Love these pre-facelift third-gens. Has the early dash-gauge-bezel without the sun-shade that you normally see on '86 + Leones... and the triangle-less, door-skin-mounted side-view-mirrors, perfect for making the wind whistle... Had an '85 USDM wagon myself before... many of the same early body features... Did they use the Orange Coolant?... or just never serviced... The cooling fan wired to the toggle switch is par for the course, half my rides are set up that way... although it is nice when they work the way they're designed. Enjoy the Sedan, looks like an awesome ride.

You may decide to keep this wagon and sell whatever other ride you have. Financial these cars are fuel and money savers once they are running well. There's a reason your neighbors and people on this board are interested in your wagon... Telling this board you will sell it, almost is like the sound of a dying animal to a pack of wolves... you got all the wolves attention... Enjoy the wagon, it will grow on you more and more. And if you do ever want to sell, this Wolf in Seattle is interested in buying.

Back in 2013 I made an attempt to revive all the dead photo links of mine in this thread... Made it to like page 7 before giving it the ghost... This year I've made it to about page 23 so far. That includes all the old American Subaru ads and some from Germany and Netherlands... There is much more to be revived... the jdm ads begin on like page 45 or so. Anyway, the posts that I did revive should be around for a good while now, have changed my image host thanks to a tip from Loyale 2.7 Turbo. If you weren't here around the time of the original posts, chances are you never got to see them before the images died a few days to weeks later. Enjoy them like never before! Some bonus photos and info added where available, or see them for the first time. Get that nostalgic feel, reminisce, get inspired, learn Subaru History! It all begins back at page one... More to come in the future if you all wish... Pics of my '82 to keep on topic... My third eye saw it coming...

Did not know about this... Slowly the parts supply is drying up. Rebuilt my EA81 Brat engine with my dad back in 2012. Water pumps, oil pumps etc were still available at the time. Cannot remember what size overbore we went with, probably .40s to clear the pitting in the cylinders. They were generic ITM Pistons that were flat-top. Had I known a little more then, would have asked the shop to source the same size piston for the EA71. Hear that combo produces more compression but never seen it in action. I'm glad we took the time, effort, and money to rebuild it the right way. The Brat still runs amazing to this day and should keep on going well into the future... knock on wood. Cost of the parts for the rebuild of the EA81 AND the shop labor was like $1100 back then. Well worth it in my opinion... peace of mind in knowing what you have.

Quite Rare, but I have seen a stock 3rd generation EA82 Wagon from '85 or '86 (pre-facelift) that was a GL-10; it had N/A multipoint fuel injection. Was for sale in Portland a few years back on CL. To the O.P... it should be possible. You're in the right place to do research.

Nice Standard Hatch, own an '86 STD myself. Basically the least amount of options and frills were put on these... the base of base models. Today that is probably a blessing because there is less to go wrong. Quite a bit of mods to make a fwd hatch into a 4wd; trans, rear driveline, mustache bar mounts, rear diff and axles, fuel tank swap, etc... if you have the 5 speed dual range the rear driveline must be custom as well. The round lights came factory on the STD's. If you want to go quad-light you will need to mod the radiator-core-support, as well as your headlight wiring to match the new light pigtails. The fuel tank is smaller, usually takes less than 10.5 gallons for me to fill up. You probably have the 4wd tank installed, which is different to accept the rear diff and mustache bar. Edit: now that I'm thinking about it, because you have a lift kit on (not sure how many inches the lift blocks are on the back) the lift would make the rear-drive mechanics clear the factory tank. Other things about the STD; Used the 1.6 EA71, instead of the 1.8 EA81 They came with 4-speed fwd, instead of 5-speed. There was no "intermittent" windshield wiper speed. They used the dash and steering wheel from the DL, meaning no Tach. No trip-meter or fuel-low-light either. Stereos usually were not included. There was no rear window defroster. There was not a passenger rear-view mirror. Instead of carpet there is a vinyl/linoleum-like floor that is easier to scrub clean, and doesnt trap dirt as much. There wasn't a console around the shifter, just a rubber boot on the top of the trans tunnel.

Always liked the look of the early 2nd generation Leone gauges. Somehow they look more modern than the '82 and after facelifted 2nd gens. Probably has to do with the cutouts for the gauges not being totally round, they have that straight section that goes from the right and covers the middle of both the rpm and speedo needles. That "blinking" action of the light outside the car was fun to watch, glad you got yours figured out as well.

Turns out the switch for the Center Light was bad. Pulled it out of the dash and it looked like it had been underwater with rust happening. Swapped it out with a better condition switch and the 3rd Eye is active again. Thanks for your posts el_freddo and Subi81. Feel as though I understand the Center Light setup more now, even though I didnt have to dig very far. Checked grounds and connections, then checked that the bulb itself was good, before trading out the switch itself.

The wiring in this Brat is questionable. No extra batteries or capacitors... however there have been past owners who have made their mods to the wiring for fans, lights, maybe other things. It was cool that the center light was working... sat in the woods for ten years and functioned like new. Could have been this event or when I started putting the wiring back to stock. Will have to do more digging.

...before it happened. Or at least it should have. Hindsight is 20/20. The 3rd eye harness is very close to the battery. Rats were hungry and ate some of the insulation off of the red and black wires in the harness. Went to pull the battery to use in a different car; took off the negative terminal first, and then wrecklessly set it down in front of the battery, with the positive terminal still connected. Before I could undo the positive terminal I heard a "snick" similar to a fuse popping. The negative terminal had brushed those exposed wires... either the red, or black, or both. Now the highbeams work, as well as the "beam" icon on the dash. But once the 3rd eye button is pressed, neither it or the "center light" icon on the dash work. The 3rd eye was funtional before, door and light. McBrat, the one who built the straight-axle '82 Brat, had a diagram on "Indys World . com" but unfortunately that site is no longer up. What kind of tests can I do? Did I blow a relay or worse the 3rd eye?

Thanks for helping to clarify that el freddo. It can be confusing with the way Subaru overlapped their production models, especially for the guy at the parts store. Like in Australia, the Brumby was produced into the early 90's alongside the 3rd gen lineup. This '86 STD uses a 4 speed fwd trans. GL models that are FWD I've seen always have a 5 speed fwd trans. Basicallu the STD is a no-frills, no options, just a utilitarian economy car with the bare essentials. Have some work to do to it, but with some elbow grease it will be a nice little gas saver for me. Going to leave it FWD as I already have 4WD subies

Right Steptoe, some 2nd gen cars were still produced long into the 3rd gen lineup (in the States). 2nd gen Brats were produced until 1987. And the 2nd gen hatch was produced until 1989, that being what model this is. Not to be confused with the ea82 3 door coupe. That is another thing that would have to be swapped over. The rear suspension on the STD is trailing arm, would have to swap in the torsion bar from the 4WD. Also have heard there will be issues with the stock FWD exhaust once the 4WD running gear is in place.

Recently purchased an '86 Subaru Standard, my first FWD Subaru. Started contemplating a 4WD conversion, have a rusty Brat that would be a perfect donor... so I thought. This is why I will always return to this forum for research: Through searching this forum I learned that the 4wd hatch gas tank is 4wd hatch specific, the Brat tank would not work. There are ways around this using the fwd tank, but only if you lift the car considerably. I wish to keep the car more or less stock height. Also the driveline to the rear diff is different, the hatch has the shortest wheelbase of the ea81 models. Thats a no-fit for the Brat driveline. Plus the locations for the mustache hanger and center carrier bearing are not "there" on fwd models... would have to drill and tap locations for the bolts or have them protruding into the passenger compartment. And have read that the trans tunnel is shaped differently, and could need some massaging. Even after that the shift boots will most likely not have a great fit. It would be great with 4WD, but like wise people say on here; unless you are a masochist, leave it be and find one that is already 4WD. I will let it stay a gas sipper. Have heard mention that the "fat case" ea71's that come in this model are somewhat rare. Wonder if they are more similar to the ea81 than earlier ea71's. Thanks again USMB for the great info.

The social media groups are like the Forum(bud)-Lite. You get the glamor and whatnot but none of the meat of the real forum. Here is hoping this place sticks around, but I dont see it going anywhere soon.

Over the past few weeks I have kept this thread open in a tab on my phone, it has made for an entertaining and inspiring read during my break time at work. Keep up the good work! The grass is always greener on the other side... you have so much R & D into these Outbacks you might as well continue with them. However variety is the spice of life. The only constructive criticism I have is to watch those cross-sections on the trails you are blasting down. (Forgot the location, several videos back) I would hate to be on an atv or whatever and get T-boned by an Outback doing 60 through the woods haha. I didnt see another soul besides you guys on the video but its just a what if... never know who else is out there.

Overdue update. The new cable has since been put on the Brat and it is working great. The new cable easily slid through its housing when pulled on, simulating operation. The old cables were stiff in comparison... however the almost broken cable was what got me to the Dealer and back. It was a nail-biter, not sure when the last clutch-throw would be, and trying to use the clutch as little as possible, but it made it fine and probably would have held out for a while longer. But the new cable is so much nicer and the peace of mind as well.

Yeah, I couldn't help but laugh a little when I saw the part numbers are literally one-off from each other. Good old Fuji...

I've had our Dalmation ride shotgun in the Brat with me before. She sat up the whole time, she was younger then, I don't think she would tolerate it now. Her favorite seat has always been the bench in the EA82 wagons.

Thanks for the reply GD. Gave Lithia Subaru a call and Matt answered, he said the part number for a '82 GL Brat Clutch Cable is 737026032. Ordered through my local dealer, in 3-4 business days the Brat should be back in business.

Bringing back this old thread from the dead. The year is now 2018, and our EA81's are older than ever. The Subaru Dealer's computer database now only goes back to 1986. Anything older and they have to bring out the paper-book-catalogue of part numbers. Anyway, my clutch cable broke on my '82 GL Brat. Same problem as the O.P.... Broke right at the sleeve-bracket-washer that holds the cable-housing from moving, close to the pedal-end. Looks to be made of pot-metal. I went to take the clutch cable off of the parts Brat, and it isn't far off from breaking also. Seems to be the achilles heel of the clutch cable assembly, the cable and housing all look to be fine, it is just that integrated metal bracket-washer that broke. Called the Renton dealership, and the dude working there said they threw out that old catalogue of part numbers! Why would they do such a thing?! Called the Auburn dealership, they still have their's, but he gave me the part number 737026033... investigating this number shows that it is for a EA82 body. Does anybody have the Subaru Part Number for an '82 GL Clutch Cable?? If I can't get a Subaru one, I may have to go Rock Auto or Autozone. Thanks for reading.