bertherr

I would clean the engine, transmission, & underside of the car real good. Then, I would have a fluorescent die added to the engine & transmission fluids. You drive the car for a while & then search for the source of the leak with a black light. My mechanic has the ability to look for leaks this way. This method is even used for the a/c system. I hope this helps. Bert

Would having different sized tires causing the damage to the clutch packs also cause the auot trans to leak? Thanks, Bert

My car is a 1995 Legacy AWD LS wagon, auto trans, 105k miles. I have had to replace the passenger side drive axel seal twice in the last year. I also have a leaking auto trans rear output seal. Could there be a common cause here? I was just reading some other posts about clutch packs and it got me thinking. Thanks, Bert

Bump

How difficult is it to replace the rear output shaft seal on an automatic 95 Legacy wagon? Can I do it by dropping the drive shaft and heat shields? I am trying to decide if I should take it to my mechanic or spend some time under the car this weekend. Thanks, Bert

How much runout is allowed? I just had my rotors machined and I have more shake when braking than before. I checked the front rotors and have .005" runout on the drivers side & .008" runout on the other. Thanks, Bert

This shaft seal can not be replace without first removing the toothed looking piece in the photo. It screws out after removing the locking tab. It has an o-ring you should replace, too. I would suggest replacing the inner boot while the shaft is removed. It is common for this inner boot to tear. I have had it tear on two different Legacy's. Bert.

Anyone have any experience with these air filters? Are they worth the price? Thanks, Bert

Do a search for "why do my antilock brakes activate when they should not". Or something very close to that. You will see that I had a similar problem. Read the post find out all of the possible causes. I also had a mechanic tell me that it is not uncommon for your type of symptom to arise after doing brake work. They find that debris from doing the work gets on the sensor and causes the problem. In my situation it is possible that metal shavings from drilling out a busted bolt got on my sensor and messed it up. Good luck, Bert

I have used stainless screws, similar to the previous nail idea, on two different Legacy wagons. I place them at the seam of the second shield and use screws long enough that the heads press against the first shields. They stay in and take the noise away. Bert

Go to the link I will put below and read the messages. Specifically the fith one from Chap. I had my 95 legacy wagon totaled this past March. I used the advice from this guy and I received about $1,500 more than the insurance company originally offered. The starter of this post is someone I used to work with. I replaced my car with a twin I found thanks to the insurance company that paid for my old one. I asked for the listings that they used to help determine the value of my car. I live between DC & Baltimore. The car was in Philly. I would have never looked in classifieds up there. I ended up with a car with more options and 100,000 less miles for $1000.00 less than the insurance company gave me. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/004410.html I hope this helps you, Bert

Check out Consumer Reports for data on leasing vs. buying. Which is better really depends on your needs. If I remember correctly, it will cost you more in the long run to lease the car. That is, if you plan on owning it down the road. Good luck. Bert

Three weeks have passed without any symptoms at all. I even went up and down a dirt mountain road that took about 45 minutes to go a few miles. Another Subaru was the only other vehicle I saw besides 4wd trucks. Anyway, there are two things I did that may have had an effect on the ABS: I did find metal shavings all over the right front sensor and removed them (a bolt had broken off that had to be drilled out nearby). I also rotated my tires. I measured their loaded diameter with a Pi Tape. The set that had been on the rear were .118" larger than the ones from the front. The next time I go to my mechanic for preventative maintenance I will have him read the codes and see what they tell us. I do not want to try to read them myself now that the problem has gone away. Thanks, Bert

I have not tried to get the codes out of my car yet. It has not had the symptoms since I found out how to retrieve them. It is funny how some days it will do it everytime I hit the brakes and then go for many days with out doing it. I'll let you know what the codes say when I get them. Bert

Could you send it to bertherr98@yahoo.com ? Thanks, Bert

Any tips on how to get the codes out of the computer? I would like to do it myself if I could. If not, a trip to my mechanic is in order. I could not find anything wrong with an under the car visual check this weekend. Thanks for all the help, Bert

I just checked each disc's temperature after driving for about 20 minutes with a laser gun. Each one was between 275 -325 degrees F. There was unifirmity front to back and variance from side to side. I guess the sun had something to due with this. I will next check for dirty sensors and pinched wires. Bert

All of the tires are new. I think I need to check for a sticking caliper. The car stops straight but pedal effort is high. My mechanic told me that one of the calipers was difficult to push in the last time he replaced the pads. I think we have a heat sensing gun at work I can use to check the temperature of the wheels/brakes. Oh, the ABS light came on once and stayed on until I shut off the car. It did not come on the next time I started the car. Thanks for the input. Bert

I have a 1995 Legacy LS wagon with 85k miles. I notice that the antilock brakes seem to activate (buzzing sound, pedal pulses) when stopping on dry, smooth pavement. These are not panic stops. Maybe only when almost stopped. This seems to happen if I have my foot on the brakes when starting the engine, too. The fluid is clean and full. What can I check for? Thanks, Bert