
ccrinc
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Source for double row full metal radiator
ccrinc replied to l75eya's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Performance Radiator sells them. I'm sure you can Google them, they're a nationwide company. Their products are excellent and not horribly expensive. We've used them for years. Emily -
If enough coolant from the bad head gaskets got into your cat, then yes, that could cause one to clog up and fail. However, 3 months later is a stretch. That should have happened much sooner. I'd get a second opinion. Have the shop put a vacuum gauge on your intake manifold. (Yes, they're still around and still useful for diagnosing stuff a scanner can't.) It should show 14" or better of mercury. If it's below 10" (that's inches), it's likely you have a plugged cat which will have an effect on how the engine runs and poor gas mileage. Emily
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- Gasket Head
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What's That Noise? With Video! (83 GL Turbo Wagon)
ccrinc replied to Kristina's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The people at Superior are good. We've worked with them before. After listening to the videos several times, I can say that I DO hear some lifter noise, but I would definitely ask them about checking the flexplate. A cracked flexplate can make a noise just like that, be responsive to gear changes/rpms and not have any effect on the engine itself. Emily -
All things considered (and the fact that its in a usually rusty area), it looks like a righteous buy to me. Face it, any time you buy a 20 year old car with high mileage, you are going to have to expect to fix something. Overall, this looks pretty well cared for. The only way you're going to know is to go look at it and drive it. Anything you get from anyone here means nothing: you have to go check it out in person. Emily
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Frankly, it sound like stuck rings to me at first glance. It's also probable that the valves may be just plain worn, especially the exhaust valves which are smaller. And yes, they DO go bad, just not very often. Did you use a Subaru Genuine PCV valve? The aftermarket ones are mostly junk and a Genuine one isn't much more expensive. Also, when you changed the valve, did you clean out the PCV hoses? Emily
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As long as you understand that those transmissions are considered to be made out of glass... They never did handle the torque from the EJ20 engines very well to begin with. I've heard of people who are on their 3rd or 4th transmission before they understand that high revs and "sport" shifting are gonna be the death of it. Emily
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2002 wrx
ccrinc replied to dp213's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
The thing about turbo engines in particular is that they need a certain amount of backpressure. Doing what he's wanting to do is dangerous for these engines. Trust me: we won't even give a warranty on one if the exhaust isn't stock. Emily -
You guys are assuming that you'll use the entire wiring harness. NO. You're overthinking it. There is no way for a '73 VW transmission to communicate with a 2000 Subaru harness. Don't worry about the pins: as I said before, all you need is the part of the wiring harness which makes the engine run. When we modify a harness we start with the entire, 27+ lbs. harness and when we're done, it's about 7-10 lbs. That said, the harness, engine and ECU should all be from the same vehicle. That way you are assured that all components match up. It's much more difficult to mix and match components. VW/Vanagon conversions are a significant part of our business. We do the conversions on the 2.2 harness, we outsource the 2.5 ones to a guy in Canada who is the well-known authority on these for N. America. (Besides, we've done 2.5 harnesses and it's just not worth our time due to the amount of effort which it requires.) With all due respect, this is kind of "our thing". People tell us all the time that they've seen our name on various VW conversion forums and because of that, came to us. Many of our customers are shops which specialize in conversions. I won't say it's easy, but keeping it simple (KISS) is the way to go here. Emily
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When you do a swap like that, you need to modify the wiring harness so that you eliminate everything except that which makes the engine run. There is absolutely no need for your car to even know that there's a difference. I suspect you left some of the wiring in that would pickup that signal. Of course, the VW has no way of sending it. PM me and I will send you the information to the only place I know which sells the wiring diagrams for modifying the harness for that style of engine so you can permanently correct the problem. We do VW conversion engine setups all the time, so I know exactly what you're talking about. (If it was me, I would have recommended the '90-94 EJ22: must less expensive, less hassle and only a 25-30hp difference. But you've already done the job, so...) SWEET bug, BTW! Emily ps: we shipped an engine to Darmstadt last year! Small world.
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Well, it depends. USPS does not give any discounts, except the minor ones available to anyone when you order online. UPS, FedEx (ground), DHL, etc. do give volume discounts, but you have to be Amazon-sized to get much of anything. Mostly, it costs more than USPS for almost anything. We practically always ship small stuff via USPS Priority Mail. It's faster, easier and less expensive, AND trackable. Now, engine-sized stuff: that's an entirely different ballgame. We use LTL (less than truckload) motor freight all over N. America and get enormous discounts, but that still doesn't make it cheap. The price is included in our engine prices. On some we make money, on some we lose money. One size doesn't fit all if it has to go from Denver to Maine vs. Denver to Albuquerque. The headache of having to price each shipment individually for customers is (somewhat) offset by the fact that we just decided this was simpler and easier for everyone concerned. For large, light weight items, dimensional shipping comes into play and that is never pleasant.
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I went and looked at the diagrams, and frankly, I don't see any real differences. It is possible that the 390 number is simply a superceded number for the identical item. Subaru's well known for doing this. Or maybe different rings or bearings were used. Although, it is possible that one is the EGR version and the other is the non-EGR version. If you want new, go for the newer part # if you can verify it is non-EGR. You do know that Subaru has a reman shortblock program too, right? About $1000 less expensive. Same warranty. Emlly
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One word of caution on that: the tensioners are lubricated by the engine oil. If it gets low, you run the chance of having one seize up (same thing with lack of oil changes). The damage that causes is far more than $3000. Your's is officially the first I (personally) have heard of. Of course, nothing is impossible! Emily
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Actually, the EZ series of 6 cyl engines do have front/rear (or inner/outer) timing covers. These also house the timing chains, water pump, oil pump, and assorted sprockets and guides for the chains. They are a nightmare: the bolts (114 of them IIRC) must be taken out in a specific sequence and installed in a specific sequence. And then torqued in a specific sequence. BUT, I have NEVER heard of any of them needing to be resealed! Do you have an oil leak? Have you personally verified it? I know Las Vegas (I'm assuming Nevada) does not have many shops that will touch a Subaru. I have not heard good things about the dealers there either. BUT, if your "friend of a friend" doesn't know exactly what he's doing, this engine is not to be messed with by anyone that doesn't know them inside-out. The axle boot? Almost any import shop can do that for you. Emily