ccrinc

We ship all over the world, and although I haven't seen this particular scam before, the terminology in the email would sure make me suspect it: No return phone number, address, full name, etc. Doesn't even tell you what country, just "West Africa" "an American Bank"??? Most international stuff is either by credit card or wire transfers If he truly imports, the term would be "freight broker" or "freight forwarder" If the guy is willing to do a wire transfer or American Express M/O, it may be legit, but it sure doesn't sound like it to me! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

The EJ22 is a direct bolt-in swap for an EJ18 engine. You don't need to change anything, including the ECU. The engines are identical except for the bore. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Actually, the people at Delta cams do a very professional job. As most of you know, we rebuild our car engines mostly stock, but there is an aircraft company who uses our engines exclusively, and they specifically requested Deltas Stratus grind for aircraft in the EJ22 engines. From our experience, I would definitely recommend them. Scott and Jerry are the guys there. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

What? You didn't want to take the whole dang car, dash and all, apart to put in a new heater core? Hope it doesn't get cold where you are. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Which side burned up? Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

OK, guys. Here's my best shot. EJ22 '90-96. Non-interferential, definitely. '97 and 98 are a little fuzzy. Seems that somewhere in the late '97-98 MY there were changes, some of which we haven't seen yet. Late '98, if it looks like a 2.5 SOHC (only 2 timing covers on the front), extremely likely it's interferential. One of these is a 4 month only engine. '99 EJ22 is definitely interferential. We've done 3 in the last couple of months. 1 year only engine. EJ25 All are interferential, no matter what year, both DOHC and SOHC. EJ20 Interferential It's valves that hit pistons. We have part of one piston that was hit so hard that the only thing remaining intact (sort of) is the head (flat side) and what's left of the ring landings. The head is actually in 3 pieces and is being held together by the rings which are "mostly" still in the grooves. The wrist pin was in the oil pan. And the failure doesn't have to be as catastrophic as a broken timing belt or failed tensioner. If the belt is off by as much as 3 teeth, it can and most likely will cause valve/piston damage. If I have ever "preached" maintenance and using Genuine OEM parts, I do it doubly for these engines! Change your oil and never, ever, under any circumstances let them overheat! Use the right octane of gas too. We see burnt exhaust valves in 3 out of 5 engine cores that were replaced for a different problem! I'm sure Rick (the Master Rebuilder himself) could add to this. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Keith, This isn't as common in EA82 engines as it was in EA81s, so your block is definitely scrap metal. If it got hot enough to turn a cylinder sleeve (which are permanently pressed into the block), you'll never be able to trust it again. The head bolts will pull the threads as soon as you try to torque them, even if you chase the threads and wire brush the bolts. Believe me, in our shop, if we saw that, we might try to get the crank out, but most likely the whole thing would go in the scrap bin because all the internals are simply not trustworthy anymore, regardless of how good they may look. And believe me, you can't rebuild a block with a spun sleeve. Sorry, Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Nope. The SOHC (late) 2.2s and SOHC 2.5s are all interferential. So are the EJ20s. I could post pics that would make you cry. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

If you have a solid lifter EJ22, you have an interferential engine. The '99 is a one-year-only engine. Previous to that, there was a 4 month only version also, but we haven't seen that one yet. If your date of manufacture was in '97 sometime, you should be ok. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Sorry I didn't see this earlier. We would prefer to use the Genuine o-ring. They fit right and last longer. Unfortunately, that also means that I really don't have an answer to your headgasket question, because we won't use aftermarket there either. Yes, we use a sealer: a light coating of Permatex Spray A Gasket Copper. Doing a turbo block, eh? Did you remember to clean out the bolt holes? Wirebrush the bolt threads? Sorry I couldn't be more help. Bottomline: if you want to put it together "once and right", messing around with trying to make stuff fit isn't gonna cut it. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com