ccrinc

Aluminum is indeed a common component of engine bearings. That, and copper. These are the ones which are usually OEM: http://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/na/en/products-&-services/engine-components/light-vehicle/engine-bearings/

Haven't you ever heard? "Carburetor is a French word meaning leave it alone". Actually, I think that might not work since EG33s have variable valve timing: the fuel delivery is crucial. There's already hood modification mentioned on the forums several times without adding something else on top of the engine. (Can you even carb an MPFI engine?) Here's some specs on it: Type: 6-cylinder horizontally-opposed (boxer) for low center of gravity and reduced vibration Construction: Die-cast aluminum ally block, cast aluminum alloy heads with 4 valves per cylinder and centrally located spark plugs Valve Train: 24-valve, with dual overhead camshafts (DOHC) and hydraulic valve lash adjusters Displacement: 3.3 liter / 3318 cc / 202.5 cubic inches Bore and Stroke: 96.9 mm x 75 mm / 3.815 inches x 2.95 inches Compression Ratio: 10.0:1 Horsepower: 230 @ 5,400 rpm Torque: 228 @ 4,400 rpm Maximum Engine Speed: 7,000 rpm Engine Management: Integrated fuel and ignition systems. Engine Control Unit (ECU) computer with learning and aging controls, self-diagnosis and limp-home features. Twin knock sensors and oxygen sensors provide separate control of each cylinder bank. Fuel System: Multi-port electronic fuel injection with dual-spray fuel injectors Fuel Required: Unleaded 91 octane Ignition System: Distributorless electronic crank-angle-dependent direct-fire ignition with individual spark/coil units at each platinum-tipped spark plug The engine weighs about 85lbs more the the EJ22 that it is designed from. Incidentally, I happen to know that Small Car in Tacoma, WA sells a diagram for modifying the wiring harness down to just what will make the engine run. He does them for Subaru>Vanagon conversions. It might be helpful. Emily

Not to throw cold water again, BUT... An SVX (EG33) engine won't fit into a Legacy without significant modifications. For instance, where and how to mount the radiator. Since the engine alone weighs ~75 lbs. more, you also need to beef up the front suspension. I hope you're good with wiring. Merging the wiring is not for the faint of heart. You'll be mixing OBDI and OBDII. Incidentally, the EG33 is more like an EJ22 than an EJ25...just FYI. Here's a couple of links that talk about the issues: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f128/t105010-official-eg33-swap-information-q-thread.html http://www.rs25.com/forums/f128/t84339-best-ever-h6-swap-thread.html As for your unsolved misfire: You have a '98 EJ25 with a manual transmission. It is a known fact that those (and the '97) had that issue. It's a non-issue. You can run around town all day and it won't set a code, right? But as soon as you do at least 65mph for a few minutes, the code sets. The car runs fine, right? Just that you've got that annoying CEL. Well, shops and dealers across the country have made boat loads of money clearing that code, but nobody, not even SOA, knows what's been causing it. There's a gremlin in every last one of these cars, but all it does is taunt you with a light. If that's all, don't worry about it. The high mileage: yeah, that's an old engine just waiting for something to happen. Emily

Put a new Subaru Genuine PCV valve on it while you're at it. This $12 part could be the source of your sudden oil loss and resulting problems. Sad, but true. Emily

You need a twin row radiator. Performance Radiator sells them nationwide. Emily

What ^^he^^ said. The reason most of those end in cliffhangers is because every one I've ever known who's done something like that has, at some point, thrown up their hands (and their wrenches - with some force) in frustration and said "screw it!" The time and trouble aren't worth it. Emily

I do believe you're overdue for a valve adjustment from what you've said. Emily

If the valves have never been adjusted in your car, and you are indeed hearing lifter noise that's loud enough for other people to comment on, you probably do need a valve adjustment. It's a regular maintenance item in a SOHC engine since they are all "solid" lifters. The process may require replacing the shims in the buckets with thicker or thinner shims. Piston slap would be less likely because the piston skirts are fairly long on that engine. Heat shield noise? Could be: that's a tinny rattle that will change with engine revs, movement of the car, etc. First, identify where the noise is actually originating. Is it actually coming from the heads? Emily

Dude. Tell us something we didn't already know. (This IS a Subaru enthusiast forum. ) Emily

Honestly, from one woman to another, I'm going to say "pass it up". For one thing, if it's so perfect, why is it for sale for that price? It should be going for lots more. Also, if you can't work on it yourself, it's not a car for a novice. ANY repair on that car is going to be expensive. As one Subaru service writer put it, these are Subaru's kryptonite. They're great for the first 100K, then everything starts to go bad. We have built so many engines for 2005 Subaru turbo cars that I've lost count. And our engines don't come cheap. If you can afford a carfax on it, get one. Or get somebody else to get one. I'm betting there's something hidden under that clean surface. And even if there isn't, see the first line above. Check out the Legacy line too. Not quite as popular, but just as reliable (especially pre-1998) and less pricey. Hope this helps. Emily

Yeah, but you're cheap.

I know that Colorado is very specific in their *6 vehicles per year" laws, but they aren't very good at enforcing it. We flip old Subarus, but only because we buy early '90's Legacys to strip out the engines, all wiring, ECU, etc, etc. for Vanagon conversions and aircraft applications. The car then goes to the crusher, usually loaded with as much old steel and metal (we recycle everything!) as the frame will bear. The car is never driven again and therefore, no title or registration is necessary. However, the junkyards and crushers here require a title when the car is surrendered to keep everything legal and to prove the vehicle was not stolen. Also, we are not in the business of selling cars, just engines.

It's very likely the oil pressure sending unit on the oil pump is either corroded, bad or just plain dirty. Clean it off and see what happens. You're obviously getting decent oil pressure or you'd know it by now! As long as you keep oil in it, change the oil faithfully, and never, ever, under any circumstances, let it overheat, that engine will keep going nearly forever. In MT, we recommend 10w30 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer. Also, using either a Subaru Genuine oil filter or NAPA Gold for protection on start up. Emily

Short answer: no.

Most states have an arbitrary limit as to how many vehicles someone can sell in a year without having a dealer's license. (For Colorado, it's 6.) Only dealers have to report sales taxes: private sales taxes are paid directly to the state when the car is licensed by the new owner, but the state takes the amount from either a bill of sale or reported amount on the title itself. As to income, the states don't really care about that. The IRS says they care, but unless someone is particularly egregious about it, and it goes unreported, nothing happens.

The Forester in 1999 was the first SOHC. If the crank sprocket and left cam sprocket match, they are basically identical engines. Short answer: Yes.

Courtesy of Trey from Cobb Tuning: T Great write-up Stimpy. Here is how we find the position of each cylinder to set lash, which is just slightly different than what Stimpy has written. Setting valve lash on 2.5L SOHC. 1) Remove the radiator overflow bottle. 2) Remove the driver's side section of the timing belt cover (just 3 bolts) to expose the driver's side camshaft sprocket. 3) Remove valve covers and necessary components (we typically pull air filters/boxes and the windshield washer bottle to get better access.) 4) With a 22mm socket and long breaker bar, rotate engine until the ARROW on the driver's side camshaft sprocket is at 12 o'clock (UP). Set the valve lash on the #1 cylinder when camshaft sprocket is in this position. 5) Rotate engine through two revolutions and set ARROW on the camshaft sprocket at 6 o'clock (DOWN). Set the valve lash on the #2 cylinder. 6) Rotate engine again 2 revolutions and set the arrow on the camshaft sprocket at 3 o'clock (RIGHT) (standing in front of engine bay). Set the valve lash on the #3 cylinder. 7) Rotate engine again 2 revolutions and set the arrow on the camshaft sprocket at 9 o'clock (LEFT). Set the valve lash on the #4 cylinder. 8) Put everything back together and test drive. This might be more exact if for some reason you can't tell the exact position of each cylinder. Plus, it makes it easier than pulling all the timing covers off. We rotate the engine 2 rotations to give the cam a full turn (it turns 1/2 speed of the crank) and recheck the lash on the cylinder we just set before going to the next. It's not a requirement, but it's a good QA step. Other than that, the lash adjustments Jon (Stimpy) wrote were dead on. Make sure you keep the feeler gauge on the same "plane" as the top of the valve. If you have it in at an angle, you might set the valve lash too high and it'll be noisy. Take your time, and you'll get it right. It is definitely something you begin to get a feel for after you've done it a few (hundred ) times. Enjoy! My first reaction was "if you have to ask parts are required, you need to pay someone to do it for you". I stand by this reaction. Emily Here's another writeup: There are two ways to set the valve lash, one of which takes 2 hours and the other takes about 3 hours. When I first did my cams, I figured that you had to have the timing belt cover off in order to see everything going on with the timing belt (read: timing marks). It helps, but its not necessary. To get the timing belt cover off, you have to remove both radiator fans (two screws at the top and one fan plug on the bottom of each). With those out, you can remove the crank pully by removing the accessory belts, putting your car in 5th gear, standing on the brakes, and having somebody run a long breaker bar. Once the pully is out, you can proceed to remove the 10-15 screws holding the timing belt covers on. From here you can remove your spark plugs and then rotate your motor clockwise with the crankshaft pully bolt. You need line up all the lines on the timing belt gears/pullies to the 12 o'clock position. There should be a timing mark on the gear in the middle and one on each camshaft pully. Now you can remove your valve covers (5 bolts). If the motor has been sitting for a little while, there won't be much oil coming out. With all the lines in 12 o'clock position, your motor should be in top dead center (TDC). This is where all of your cylinders are at rest, but most importantly, cylinder 1 (front passenger side I think, though it says on your coil pack on the intake manifold) is at the top of the compression stroke. This is where you need each cylinder to be when you set the valve lash. You will need a feeler gauge with .007" and .009". If you don't have one, you can easily pick one up at any autoparts store for a couple bucks. You need to set the valve lash to .007" on the intake side and to .009" on the exhaust side. To do this, you push the feeler gauge in between the valve tappet and the top of the valve. If it is too loose, then you loosen up the 10mm nut on the end of your rocker arm, and with the use of a screwdriver, you can screw the valve tappet down until it is pushing on the feeler gauge. Make sure you still has enough room to move the gauge back and forth, but tight enough that there is not slop if you wiggle the rocker up and down. Now while holding the screwdriver in the slot on the valve tappet (to hold the tappet in place), keeping the feeler gauge under the valve tappet stil, you then screw the 10mm nut back down, securing the valve tappet in place. Recheck the lash with your feeler gauge. If it is still tight, but moderately movable, then you can move on to the next valve; if not, try again. The intake side will be done from the top of the car, and the exhaust side was done with one person below and one person above the car. Once you have done both the intake and the exhaust side of cylinder #1, you need to rotate the motor slowly clockwise until cylinder #2 (front drivers side) is at the top of the compression stroke. To check this, you just put your hand over the spark plug tube and as the cylinder is coming up, you will feel air pushing on your hand; it will also be giving a hissing sound as air is being pushed around. If you take a flashlight and a mirror and use those to look down into the sparkplug hole, you should be able to see the piston. Once it has stopped moving (top) then you are there. If you wiggle the crankshaft bolt back and forth, you can see where the piston is sitting. Now you repeat the vavle lash procedure for both intake and exhaust side for cylinder #2. Then you cycle the motor over to cyclinder #3 (back passenger side), set the lash, then cycle to cylinder #4 (back drivers side), and set lash. You are now done with setting the valve lash and you can begin reassembly of the car by putting the valve covers back on, the timing belt cover, the crankshaft pully (torqued back down to 130ft/lbs if its the stock pully), radiator fans, and plugs and wires. Reset your ECU. The shorter procedure simply bypasses the removal of the timing belt cover. You still have to remove plugs, valve covers, and radiator fans however. Since the crankshaft pully is keyed, it will only go on one way. While rotating the motor around with the spark plugs removed, you should be able to see a little knick or line on the backside of the crankshaft pully. If you watch for the compression on cyl. #1 while rotating the knick up to the top, you should be able to find TDC with the timing belt cover still installed. It should take 720 degrees to rotate the motor through one entire revolution. Once TDC is found, you can follow the steps listed above to set the valve lash then rotate to the next cylinder and repeat.

DUH!!

Good call.

From the inside or outside? Do you have child locks on the rear doors (very common) and is that one engaged?

If it's just rust, a few good stops will take that off the rotors. If it's still happening after that, plus loss of stopping power, you definitely need new brakes. Incidentally, most aftermarket brake kits don't include the "squealers" which alert you to your brakes being seriously worn down. Emily

Actually, "book" time on an R&R is more like 10 hours +/-. Emily

Have you checked the rheostat to see if it's set at the "off" level? (You know, the ring on the turn signal handle that dims and brightens the dash lights.)

Coolant temperature sensor, located on the coolant cross over pipe beneath the intake manifold. May need replacing (they're cheap - use Subaru Genuine) or may just need cleaning. Emily

Engine code for 3.6L "6 cylinder, 3.6L DOHC Boxer design (engine code Z36D)" Dino oil means non-synthetic, like from the dinosaurs.