ccrinc
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Part needed - EA82 right hand timing belt cover
ccrinc replied to brundl3fly's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
PM sent -
How To Get Rid of The Mouse Pee Smell For Good
ccrinc replied to MR_Loyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
A blow torch is faster. And more fun. Just sayin'... -
subaru xt6 rod crank bearings source
ccrinc replied to joe5's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
They are EXACTLY the same. The only reason Subaru shows a different part # is because the set comes with 6 instead of 4. So, buy 2 sets: use 1.5. I get so annoyed with dealer parts people who have no clue and are only going off parts numbers. Hell, most of the dealer techs have never even seen the inside of a block and couldn't tell you why a '98 block is different from a '99 block. Yes, the pistons ARE SPFI pistons. They are not interchangeable with any others because they are directional. You can use the same piston rings, bearings, most of the timing belt idlers, tensioners, (there is one extra, different one for the XT6), the right timing belt is the same as EA82, same piston rings, most of the same seals, same valves and springs. I believe the engine gasket kit is still available. I have the number if you want it. The water pump and oil pump are, I believe, different. Obviously, some of the rubber is different, like the valve cover gaskets. Let me know if you need parts numbers: I may have them. Emily -
We already have had some of this conversation: if the crank pulley is bad, you are working at damaging your engine block because of crank walk. And yes, that's where your alternator/ac belts ride. It wobbles, they get thrown. Like I said before, if it was me, I would be having a VERY serious conversation with this dealer. To sell a car with that kind of defect is criminal. Now, other stuff is popping up. I agree with Fairtax: check out the lemon laws (although I think they usually refer to new cars, not used ones). Emily
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Craig, Have to agree with your mechanic: the chance of "blowing" an old engine with head gasket repairs is real. I get attached to my cars too, but I'm lucky: I have family "in the business". If you can't get a decent used engine, I'd go for the diesel Outback. (WOW! You can actually get them there?!?!) Do you know how many people would kill for that chance over here? Emily
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No, I was just commenting on the conversion of kgs to psi on your compression test. Of course you can't do a compression test under boost. I think the compression numbers sound good. I did suggest a leak down test which would tell us if you have a problem with the rings or piston: not uncommon with these engines. But I think you're on to something with the injectors. Honestly, I would head over to NASIOC.com to check more on this engine. They will know more about this engine. Emily
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My research says 1kg = 14 lbs psi. So, 8kgs = 112 lbs psi of compression. Under boost, that's low. Without boost, that's fairly high. What were you doing JUST before you parked it? Did you let it cool down for a couple of minutes before turning the engine off? (As should be done with ALL turbo engines, every time you drive the car where the turbo kicks in.) See if you can get a leak down test of that cylinder: if it's bad, I'd be looking at a problem with the rings (or piston) in that cylinder. You have an engine that never made it to the USA. Our versions didn't come until 2002 and did have some differences. Even with a known good injector, are you sure that cylinder is getting fuel? (Your English is just fine. I've seen many native "English/American" speakers who don't communicate nearly as well as you do!) Emily
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Subaru Techinical Training Center
ccrinc replied to ford'ssubaru's's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Very cool. Many of our parts come from the Aurora warehouse. We're very fortunate to have one this close. -
I'm pretty sure any from 2000 up will fit. Do NOT drive it!!!! When the pulley wobbles, your crank is moving front to rear in the case (called crank walk). This can destroy the entire engine! I would be having a VERY serious conversation with that dealership, the BBB, the local dealer's board and anyone else who will listen because their refusal to even look at it without charging you (way too much, I might add) is literal highway robbery. Emily
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owners manual
ccrinc replied to soopsoop's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
They're only about $8 from the dealer! -
AC: Needs a coolant refill, probably has a leak in the system Cruise control: could be fuse, speed sensor on any wheel or directly related to the transmission Ceiling light: burnt out bulb. (duh) Check engine light: pull codes as others have said. Check with dealer for recall. 1) Get an owner's manual! They are available from the dealer. Might find one one eBay too. One of my husband's favorite comments: "Ya gotta be smarter than what you're working on". I think I may add it to my sig.
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Depends on the engine: Since all of ours are remans, we require non-synth for at least the first 5,000 miles EXCEPT on newer turbo engines. Those get dino-blend oil for the first 1,000 miles, then full synth. Newer EJ25 SOHC also switch earlier. The newest (2010 and later), get full synth after 500 miles. That initial break in period for the rings to seat properly is extremely important. Castrol GTX, Valvoline; our favorite dino oils. Valvoline full synth: favorite synthetic. However, customers can use any GOOD quality brand as long as attention is paid to oil change intervals and levels. For older engines (pre-2000), we recommend 10w30 winter and 10w40 for summer. In newer engines, we tell people to follow their owner's manuals but to heed oil change intervals according to our warranty. I will NOT recommend Amsoil, Redline or Mobil-1. Some people swear by them, but there are just too many horror stories circulating to trust those brands. As you know, what works great in a V8 isn't always good for a Subaru.
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This problem of oil consumption in the 2011-2014 engines is so well documented it's even made evening national news. http://oppositelock.kinja.com/subaru-tsb-for-excessive-oil-consumption-1600566355 Subaru, BMW and Audi vehicles are also affected. http://autoweek.com/article/car-news/your-car-oil-consumption-problem-list Check the oil at least twice a week and keep oil in the car to top off. "Just a quart low" is TOO low. If you drive long distances, check daily. As long as you keep oil in the engine, plus change it regularly, while it may be a huge PITA, the engine should be ok. The turbo engines have a different problem: they have oiling issues due to oil journals mainly in the rod bearings being too small. We have switched over to King Race Bearings for all 2.5 SOHC plus 2002-on turbo engines to help solve this problem. Even the venerable ACL Race bearings (which are currently unobtainium) aren't up to the turbo oiling issues. Emily
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Once any Subaru overheats, especially repeatedly, the head gaskets are, at the very least, damaged. Every time it happens, they get worse. There is no "maybe" about it. Now, as to what actually caused it, yeah, it could be an air bubble, bad thermostat, failing radiator, coolant leak from hoses, etc, etc, etc.
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1988 gl-10 turbo engine problem HELP!
ccrinc replied to abarbera's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'm going out on a limb here and say your turbo is shot. -
That's pretty heavy for your transmission. I've bought the 75w-multi at NAPA several times. Works great. Subaru needs a lighter weight fluid than 90 weight. Emily
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There's another point about JDM engines: not everything hooks up the way you expect it to. The "plumbing" is different on them. Not personally confirmed, but I've heard they can be a real PITA to make work. The price for that engine includes shipping of the engine, plus return shipping of your core and the full gasket installation kit. If you pick it up and return the core yourself, we deduct $250 from the price. Also, there's a "courtesy" discount for USMB members (which my newish office helpers may not realize yet), but you need to identify yourself as such. If you get one from a salvage yard (unless you pull it yourself) you're still definitely looking at over $2000 IF you can find one that old. And little or no warranty. Plus you still would need to give it the TLC mentioned above. We do bend over backward to stand behind our warranty, we use race bearings and turbo head gaskets because, well because they're just better. As for the car itself: that's a pretty good year. The newer ones are electronic nightmares. My oldest granddaughter and grandson both drive '93 Imprezas. Why? Because they're easy and simple to maintain and cheap to run. The '02 is similar. And, if you've looked at Craigslist lately, you know you can't buy a decent used Subaru for under $4,000 anywhere in this state. Gimme a call! (Well, not me...I've had 2 spine surgeries and I'm not in the office anymore, but Sarah or Cindy will be happy to help you out. Just tell 'em Emily sent you!
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Well, crap: I just lost the really long reply I had typed. Grrrr Rislone is an ATF-like oil treatment. It won't help. BG Formula 44K is a fuel treatment which would only help a dirty injector. A bad injector o-ring would be more likely but you already replaced that. A 303 code is a misfire on cylinder 3. It has nothing to do with compression. It's mainly electronic. The EJ25 turbo engines are overloaded with electronic stuff. It could be the cam phaser, it could be a misfiring injector. BUT, until you get it properly diagnosed, you are just making WAGs. (Wild rump roast guesses ) I don't know about Shawn at RetroRoo, but we don't charge to check out or diagnose, because we aren't a repair shop, and because Rick doesn't believe in it. Here's our website: http://www.ccrengines.com . We would just need advance notice of a day or 2, midday or early mornings are best. Emily