LostWater

Read above, again, Ok, read it again, see any freekin goin on? Sheesh. Scooby, u didn't suggest baling wire in the first place, so why does that apply about a nonfreak out event?

If an insurance company found out you negligently hung your exhaust or anything else for that matter with baling wire, and killed someone, try saving your assets then. I wouldn't want to be in your shoes in that case. If ya do something, it doesn't cost much to do it right(at least better)

Prudence is always the best judge.....

If you live in an area that has COLD weather, the your thick oil is very likely gonna to cause you to bend valves and crap like that. Both my twin and my dud dooked engines with 20w50 oil in the relatively mild winters of South Hampton Roads (maritime climate, north end of mid southern thermocline)

Drill the bib out, weld shut and cut and weld in new bib elsewhere. How to weld aluminum? My dad told me that the old timers would get AL welding rods, lay on the part that needed welding, and heat the suckers up with a slightly carbonizing flame (no Ox, just acetylene) and the AL would puddle, then use a peice of steel to push the puddle to where you needed the AL to go to. Heck, it may work and a rad as it is not bearing any structural weight, it just needs to not leak at what - 15 psi? MD

Baling wire would never pass a visual inspection. plus, u may end up with your exhaust on the highway, or even worse, through the windshield of the minivan behind you with those three kids (now dead, cause the driver of the minivan was impaled by your exhaust and baling wire)

Make sure you loosen the bleed screw when you turn em back in as otherwise it is too stinkin hard and you screw up the face of the caliper with that stupid cube popping off (not to mention scraped knuckles or, in my case, broken finger). You should bleed your brakes after releasing the bleeder screw obviously. But they should be bled often anyways. Oh yeah, swap your fluid while you are at it as brake fluid is notorious for collecting WATER. MD

later VW buses used a 46 mm one. Make sure you get the 36mm one labeled for beetle and real early busses - 5x-63. Busdepot has them cheep. Mark

I never thought of taking my vw axle nut tool with me. They only cost like $10 at the busdepot.com I have broken breaker bars on axle nuts before. Using hammer to the side of the vw tool would work better in those cases.

Mikldom, My twin brother, put ea-82 coil-overs in the back of his 6" lifted brat. The reason he did it was because his torsion bar took a dump on the downtown tunnel in Norfolk a couple of months ago. He said it wasn't too hard. I will get him to take a look and post. MD

Tony, I have several exhausts laying around. One may be on a parts hatch that I have, even. Otherwise, I now have a wirefeed gas welder, maybe we can scare something together. MD

Tony, when I put an ea-82 rad in my hatch, the only place I found for the tank was the same that you chose, right where the jack goes. I would like a picture of that one NV Zeno did to see how he mounted it. Mark

My post wasn't explicit enough, I guess. I could save you the worry about getting a junkyard windshield out without breaking it as I already have one out. Again, $60 and its yours. We likely will be in the Harrisonburg area over the weekend, you can come across the mountain on RT 33 and meet us there. Later, Mark

Tony, I will sell you one I have out for $60. It is in good shape with no clouding or anything. And.... we are close enough to either meet you there next weekend, or you come get. Mark

I know it's not turbo, but again, u can come get this wagon, no carb or seats but otherwise complete. Ea-82, just needs a headgasket. Mark

Two cores would be better, of course, but I only have 1. My ea-81 hatch's radiator went bad, busted along a seam. I had an extra wagon, in this case, an ea-82 so I just fabbed up some mounting and put it's rad in. I have never had a cooilng issue with this rad. It is an aluminum 1 core rad. Probably can get real cheap from a boneyard. MD

It is indicative that the noise is coming from just one side. If the insides were bad, the noise would come out all over due to the vibration inherent in the case. One side almost always is because of vibration coming up the shaft from either the bearings or the CV. This is why u should always go new or high quality rebuilt when you do bearings and tie rods, ball joints and CV's. This job takes too long and is too hard to have to keep doing over again due to rusty parts from sitting in a junkyard for 5-10 years. MD

If I get this Justy workin me and my twin scored for $100, we want to cut the top off and us it as a farm and boggin vehicle. Some 12 inchers like these sure would be nice. Mark

Did u buy these replacement parts from a junkyard or new? I have tried to buy CV's and a knuckle (with bearing) from a junkyard on two occasions and on both they have been bad when I test drove. This stinkin job takes too dang long to have to do twice..... This is why for parts like bearings and CV's you should do new, or rebuilt of good quality. Mark

And I am close to you. 25 miles down busyazz I-81. MeekyMoose(Tony) may get this 2wd wagon whole, otherwise, come get it. MD

Any idea about that hatch cover that you said you had.... Thanks, MD

And better details. I figured this could e an experiment for someone, but hey, I figured it out, I am sure it could save someone the hassle. I believe the steel bar is 1" wide x 4" long. You will have to drill the holes to your specs. There is a bar on each side of the mountings, with all thread connecting each, one thread through the mount on the engine, the other spaced out with tubes and washers in the ear of the alt until tight. My compressor is still there, just not hooked up, I haven't decide wether I am going to fix the air, or turn it into an onboard air compressor. That alt is a full 105 amps by the Jc Twitney rebuild kit. Twitney alt kit MD

Definitely do bearing... Mike, if you go junkyard route, you likely wont know the condition of what you are getting any better than what you have. The bearing is not hard to do, just takes time. 1st you gotta unhook the knuckle from the tie rod end and the swingarm, thats the hard part. Then you can undo the fixing bolt and the tightening bolt and get the whole knuckle off. You can use anything you want to get the old bearings out as they are toast; me, I use a chisel and a big hammer.\ You can reuse the old bearings as a drift with a hammer to get the new bearings in, inner and outer, as well as the seals too. Then reinstall, likely you will have to do the tie rod becuase that one is easy to bung up, $16 at ****vance. If you need any additional details, just ask. BTW, I have done this job on the side of a road when my bearings went out., a hint, replace them at first sound of noise.

OOPS!

First, the pics: Here are a few details now: Get two pieces of flat steel, say 4" long. Drill two holes in each at the EXACT same spot. Get two pieces of 5/16 all thread, say 6" long get eight nuts to fit said all thread (one to set each end, other used as a locker) get a poopload of washers get a belt that is 2.5 cm longer than original (ask me for part number later) get some tube spacers for all thread of various lengths. Got mine from Slowes, can be had anywhere. Take out old alt take 1 piece of all thread and lock steel plate with one hole on each end after putting through orig. mountining hole for alt. Take other all thread and push through ear of GM alt, shim with tube spacers and washers until right dimension and then put through the other hole on the steel plates that are already mounted. Put belt over the pully and start wiggling to mount Put fixing bolt in other end of GM alt and you tighten the crap out of it. Take two pieces of wire 3" long each. Crimp male spade on one end, crimp female spade on other. I went to ****vance with both alts, compared plugs with their wiring colours, and this next graphic is what I came up with. this is looking the back of the connector, just switch around if using just spades to alt. then a-b for each. (I will put just spades into the back of the alt) Just hook the spade wires just built lining up A-A and B-B(or switched according to how you are wiring, see above). You probably as want the insulate the spades that go into the GM alt so they don't touch. As always, your results may vary, and you are responsible for your own actions and verifying these details in your own application. Does anyone want me to post pics and details of me rebuilding the GM alt with the JC Twintney 120 amp kit? (otherwise, this switch only gives you 10 more amps than stock). MD