
SVX_commuter
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Location
North Jersey
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Interests
Auto Repair ski hike
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Occupation
Pump Engineer
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Biography
Engineer BSME
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Vehicles
92svx306k 93ImpLs 97Astro
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Hello everyone I bought a 97 Impreza a few weeks ago and it has failed the NJ inspection. It has a code that says the OBD is not ready. I got a scan monitor and drove around and it says ready. Yeah! Then I shut off the car turn it back on and guess what? It says not ready.......... Everyone is telling me there is something wrong........Oh yeah? What? They say it should not do that. It should stay on after it is ready. Anybody got any thoughts? Is there a burn out battery in the ECU? I did try the green connector flashing CEL that I read about here. It did not work. I took it to the dealer and he reset it and said drive it around and come back in a week to check. I have also pulled out the ECU to look at it. Loooks great to me. I drive about 124 miles a day.
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It has an axle nut on the wheel bearing asembly and a spline in the diff. It is held in the diff with a cicrle clip. There is not nearly as much misalignment on the rear shafts since these do not turn corners. The only misalignment is the up and down at the rear of the car. I think the bearings may have gone dry.
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I am just guessing on this. I think it is from the clutch plate wear. I think if the oid seal leaks there has to be a path to keep the oil off the clutch plate. The design would allow the oil to drain out and not get on the clutch. I think the clutch would not work well with oil on it. It would slip
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Cold days could be water in the brake lines. The flushing of the lines has to get all the water out. With the one man bleeder, how do you keep the air from going thru the threads of the bleeder screw when the brake peddle is released? Think about checking with another person for the I need a buddy to bleed method.
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The noise gets louder the faster the car goes. It is related to the speed of the car. It is on the left side in the back as Identified by a friend that rode in the back to check it. He crawled around form teh left to the right side and checked. He says it is not in the middle it is on the left side near the wheel well. I think it is the bearings in the axle going. I am not sure how to check this with the car up.
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Welcome to world of Subaru engine oil level. I have had a few Subaru's over the years and I still have two now. That oil oil is tough to measure on any of the engines. The guy I work with talks about it on his GT. He showed me how the level reads on the front side of the stick and different on the back! That is with just one pull of the stick out of the engine. I only check the level in my cars after the engine has been run for at least two hours and the car has then sat for at least four hours. If you run the car for about 10 miinutes and it's cold out all that cold viscous oil gets on the walls of the engine and sits there. It takes a long time for it drain back into the pan. Check your cold oil level after a 10 minute run and it will be low. I have overfilled an engine one time when I did this. Then the next time the oil level was high. The best way is to check it the same way and in the same place each time. Calibrate your brain and procedure so you know what you are looking at. Be consistant John
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I have this problem with the engine. I have had it for a few months now. Any help would be great. The idle speed is fast at 2000 rpm after it is warmed up. Turning off the engine and restarting drops it down to 800 where it is usually. The idle has gotten rougher. Gas mileage is dropped from 26 to 22. I found the problem is with one cyclinder. I disconnected each injector and found that cylinder by battery had no change, the engine stayed rough with disconnect. I checked the coil with spare plug and spark looked okay. I am thinking this is the fuel injector. Is there any other electric or mechanical things that can work intermitant? It still runs and that is what counts. John