IslandBrat

Hey, thanks but i have the service manual for it. so it has the diagrams for wiring.. im not to electrical minded. engines and carbs im great at.. but most of the bikes i have had dont ever have electrical problems or more than 3 wires for most stuff. lol i wanna test the power at the bulbs, brake light switch, before and after the trailer harness. see what that tells me. been reading alot on this site for the same problem. any other ideas? i guess testing for power will tell me what i need to know.. have to ask my dad for the voltmeter. ill let ya know what i figure out.

i guess these are pictures, kinda small.. http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/248467_10150211226548684_665518683_7154269_7721718_a.jpg http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/248737_10150211226613684_665518683_7154270_1467340_a.jpg

Hey Hey, my buddy should be emailing me the pics of the brat in my car port jacked up soon. its not to pretty but i know you all want to see. so the front brakes suck to work on, why do you have to rotate the piston clockwise to get them back in all the way.. why can subaru make it easy.. anyways i should have that all done today if i work on it. got the new master cylinder installed, the passenger side done. rear brakes done. but i still dont have brake lights. i have been searching and reading many threads on this site as to what to check and what goes wrong. thing is is my running lights work, blinkers work, license plate lights work. i disconnected the pedal switch, jumped it. still no brake lights.. some people say the trailer light box thing goes bad and you can cut it out (i dont plan to tow ever with the brat) to see if that is the problem. but if everything else works than i know my ground isnt bad, since they share the same wire, both brake lights are out so its not a bad connection at the blub, i have brand new blubs in the rear for everything. so that doesnt seem likely.. what else can i do? i dont wanna rig up a switch that i have to press for brake lights.. i feel there is something small i can get to fix this.. any ideas? the front rotors came off no problem, no need for a hub puller.. but the old rotors were very burnt and the inside was worn down pretty far.. no lip like the new ones have... so im happy i am replacing them.. well thats my update for now.. i will post pics when i get them.. Thanks everyone!

Ok i will check that out. so your saying to replace all the motor mounts, and tranny mounts?? all rubber right, with some bolts in-between. I can do that. Today i got to the DOL and got it changed into my name. ended up costing me about one hundred dollars to get new plates and tabs for it. so that plus one hundred for the battery, one hundred for cv axles, one hundred or more in all other tune up parts. im only into this brat about 450 dollars. the guy i got it from is my good friends old boss. so i am trading two days of splitting wood for the brat. not to shabby. i got a late start on doing the rear brakes today, but after fighting with the big bolt with the cotter pin that keeps the drum and wheel to the cv axle. (big pipe wrench, with me standing on it) was how i got that off, the rear drum setup is very easy. two springs and the clips to hold them in place. however the sad news i found is i thought i had a conversion plate to six lug, nope instead the last owner just drilled out the stock drums and welded in new studs. :-\ that was just the one side. ended up changing jets out on a friends bike and started in on the brews a bit early. so tomorrow its all brat day. hope to get the rear done, front pads and rotors in and brake master cylinder. in the book it says you need a hub puller to take the front rotors off? do you have to have one? or can you pull them out by hand? Thanks for the ideas and comments. im still trying for pictures.

Alright well i will see if i have a can of carb cleaner laying around so i can try to find the leak, and as far as bleeding the brakes, im replacing all the pads, and the master cylinder, so i will bleed everything then. i will start taking the bed apart and checking wires, new mounts for engine and tranny? how much and where you get those? pretty easy to do so? Thanks everyone i am working on the pictures. my phone isnt fancy enough to take and send pictures to email.. but ill get some.

Hey i will have to get some pics for you guys. i do let it warm up, without gas it stays at 2k. i normally bring it up a bit more and then after a couple mins i tap it and it goes down to 800rpm. but trying to tap the gas then normally kills it. i have to do it just right. even stock tail lights would be great. i have been asking around in the for sale all ready. I think its the stock one, i have seen enough webers to notice if i have one on this. Thanks

Hey Everyone! I am Derel, AKA BIG D. 250Machine, The Farmer. or whatever else ya wanna call me. so introduction is over. heres what i got! I have a 1983 Subaru Brat GL. T-tops, 4WD. 1.8 ea81 motor. Got it for two days of labor from my buddys boss, he only put a thousand miles on it in the 4 years or so he owned it. kinda just used it around the property. it has some big rust spots. i need to weld something in to cover the hole on the drivers side floor. it had been sitting for a couple years. so i have done this. New Battery, New NGK plugs, new wires, new cap and rotor, oil change with filter, fuel filter, air filter. i have two brand new CV axles for the front to be installed, i have brand new brake master cylinder in the cab, along with two new rotors for the front, two ball joints, valve cover gaskets. i have front and rear brake pads/shoes on there way, along with intake manifold gaskets. should be in on wednesday. i have changed the rear diff oil. set the timing. washed it, put some polish on it just because. its ugly. but i can polish a turd into a gem. So i have some questions and want to know if someone maybe had some parts for this. so when i start it up cold. double tap the gas, turn it over. it revs up to 2k. than i go and drive it a little. than when the choke turns off. it really has a hard time idling or to say it will bog till it dies. from 800rpm to 1400rpm it really bogs down and sometimes just chokes out and dies. so i feel that would be a vacuum leak. hence why i ordered the intake manifold gaskets. the current ones are wet and slightly oily. so i feel they are leaking, and once it gets up in the rpms it does better. any ideas? also dont have working tail lights, bulbs seem fine, but dont know whats up with that. i also need at least the passenger side. but wouldnt mind getting a aftermarket kit for it. i havent been able to find any. is there some out there? also only have turn signals in the front and one in the rear. so i should be able to get that fixed. it has 158,xxx miles on it. 2 owners ago they had got 6 lug conversion plates for the wheels, so instead of 13 inch rims i have toyota 15 inch with winter/mud tires on it. they cut the front fenders a bit so it can turn. this thing is great in 4 Low. cant wait for snow to really get some use of these things. Thanks Everyone, sorry for the long story, but wanted to get everything out there and tell about all the problems i have.