tundrabrat

Ah... the one in Delta Junction? $2,750 sounds steep... it should be in really good shape for that. He may be asking a premium because there aren't many left in the state. Sounds like the choke may be bad... my Brat can sit for weeks, I just floor the accelerator, turn the key and it starts right up and sets itself at 2000rpm as it warms up. Wheel wells and rear rockers aren't too big a deal, look at the frame rails, rockers, front apron, engine compartment and tail gate hinges. I have 3 complete engines, if you end up getting this thing we'll get that thing running like a champ. Good luck, take lots of pics.

Hmmm... apparently the first thing I should have said was "DON'T RUN/DRIVE THE CAR unitl you have checked what the metalic sound is." I shouldn't have assumed that you knew this. If something comes loose in the bell housing it could damage the rear of the engine or transmission ruining one or both. If your rod bearing went it sent metal through out the engine, heads, oil pump and pan. You now have to spend a money to replace or have the parts professionally cleaned.

Don't be so hard on yourself... once you get her running right you won't want to get rid of her. Since you replaced the rear seal I am wondering if the flywheel or clutch wasn't bolted on properly. Get a long screw driver, put it against the bell housing and put your ear on the handle... see if you can't hear/feel the knock. Sounds like a rod knock but that doesn't make sense with a seal replacement.

Ah... Right on the ocean and lots of rain. Poor Brat, never had a chance. ): Looks like it's coming along good though.

where in alaska did this come from?

Any idea what the new drive train does to the overall weight? Stock a Brat comes in at about 2250lbs.? Curious... looking to do something similar.

I thought you guys would get a kick out of this. Look who won against all the young-uns. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2203211

It's actually a dark blue (factory paint) I really like the color. It has factory painted pin strips too.

Thanks... My plans have changed a little since I first got it. I have a 4runner so I have decided not to make the Brat another trail vehicle. Since the Brat is a lightweight at 2245lbs, after I get the body taken care of this winter, I am thinking of dropping in a WRX or STI driveline and tight suspension and turning it into an auto cross car. It's a big job I know but I love projects and I figure I can enjoy the Brat while I collect all the needed parts (whether it take 2 months or 2 years).

Before After After a little elbow grease... Going to enjoy it this Summer and hopefully get both engines re-built this as well.

That makes me feel better, thanks.

Just got the Brat running... runs great BUT the oil pressure is high (60 at idle, pegged at 75 when driving). I don't know if there is a way to adjust it OR is it likely a faulty sending unit. I know how to deal with low pressure... just not high pressure. Thanks...

Picked mine up a month ago, got it running and been driving it for the last week. DOOOOOO IIIIIIIIT!

Got the Brat back on the road for the first time in 5 years. Lots of thumbs up on the first drive out. (:

When I got the car the ASVs were off the car and in a box. It looks to me that they bolt directly against the head between the head and the ehaust manifold. Could you advise what on the head needs to be blocked. So can you give more detail? Thanks for the name of the valve, now I do some searches.

Thanks! 3 follow-up questions... 1) Can I just completely remove them, since my exhaust manifold is already off? 2) Since it looks like this thing (see picture) plugs into the top of the ASV can I get rid of this as well? 3) If not how do I route it and what plugs into the blue tip?

Lots of people looking, can anyone out there help?!?! I would like to have it on the road by next weekend.

On my EA81 do I need to run the charcoal canisters (that bolt between the heads and the exhaust manifold) in order to pass IM or can I pass without them? I'd like to ditch them if they aren't needed and won't effect performance.

Timing??? My 85 was cranking but wouldn't start, I made a couple of slight adjustments to the distributor and she started right up, holds a good idle and drives fine. Good luck...

I am definitely on the right sight... I actually know all the bands you speak of and listened to them when they were "actually performing". A few of my favorites... Oingo Boingo, New Order, Vapors, Depech Mode (the old stuff), The Cure, The Clash, The Cult, The Smiths, Souxi and the Banchees... someone stop me.

Thanks... Because these aren't running smog I don't think they are going to help.

Very interested in this group buy... keep me informed.

Recently picked up an 85 Brat. Just got the engine running but I am not confident that I have the vacuum lines hooked up correctly. Is there any vacuum line diagram out there? I did a search and couldn't anything... any link or advice is appreciated. The Brat has not been registered in a few years so I have to get an I.M. test. Thanks for your help!

Where's the car from originally? Is it rust through or surface? I don't like rust but there is a big difference between replacing a rocker vs. extensive body and frame rot. You know best... is this a reasonable price for MT? Whether you like it or not different areas of the country dictate prices (old subies can be pricey in AK). Good luck

Yes it will...