tundrabrat

Anyone...

I got the grill and radiator support covered... it's the electrical that is definitely the challenge. Question for you... where does the Red (blue) wire from the switch and the Red (green) from the timer/box go too? I didn't see them on the diagram you linked to. Thanks for your help, Ralph

For those that have installed one before I could use assistance. I have the light, the switch and the "timer" box with harnesses. Installing in an 85' BRAT. Couldn't find any clear instructions. Thanks in advance

After 28 months I'm calling it done. Still have to wire the cyclops and the NOS fog lights but that is just some weekend tinkering. Better pics to come once I get'r registered again and can wander a little further from home.

I'd be in on that buy...

It's a GL because of the fun tops (a/c and power steering would be options). It has 1985-87 valves covers on it, does/did it have rear seats? I'm thinking it is an 86 or 87. Nice find for sure...

Well... Long story short, one of the cam bolts busted off in the case and it took a week to drill out the old bolt without destroying the threads (If it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all). Got the engine back together and primed the heck out of it (packed the oil pump and channels). Started 1st crank and runs great... Readjusted the valves (hydro valves) because they were out of whack once they loaded up with oil. Got a business trip and will finish up when I get back. Nice to be at the point of just a few finishing touches. I'll be able to call it done by the end of the month

Putting it back together this weekend and will get it running middle of the week... Took a couple of weeks to get new gaskets and re-honed the cylinders (and refocus)

Thanks, I'm keeping it stock. I had a little fun with a GL10 during this build (lift, pugs etc.) so I got that out of my system. Left the windows in as I had just had the front replaced (bad timing). I used 1/4" cord on the rubber weather stripping that worked well to pop it up.

The frame is 46" wide and 12" deep (from front cross bar to rear). The front bar is a 90 deg "L" bracket (1" x 1"), and sits 5 1/4" off the bed floor, the rear bar is a 1" diamete tube that sits 3 1/2" off the bed floor. The bolts on the front that secure the front of the seats are 1" and 10" from either end of the of the front bracket. I hope that helps...

Well... couldn't get engine to fire. Tried everything I could think of (air, gas, spark), messed with it for the better part of a weekend and to top it off there was a lubrication issue. I pulled the engine, tearing it down , re-hone, new rings and rebuilding to see where I went wrong. I've built 8+ EJ25 performance motors and get my butt kicked by a naturally aspirated push rod with a 1/4 of the HP LOL. Oh well, should have it put back together by middle of next week (need to wait for new rings and seals to arrive)... maybe it'll even run this time

That's a pretty cool idea if the bed wad rotted.

Going back to basics... Clean/regap plugs, pull carb, look for any issues and reinstall, check for vacuum leaks (I pulled all emissions), recheck all timing and wires. If this doesn't work, I'll pull the engine and take a look at the timing gears.

Compression is all between 135-150 per cylinder. Would this thing have compression if the timing gears (crank and cam gears) were not aligned properly. I don't believe this is the issue but I'm running through everything I can think of to check. Very frustrating...

I've got an old cap, I'll check this first, then I'll do a valve adjustments again tomorrow and then compression check... If none of those look like the issue I'll try the coil. Thanks for the input.

1,3,2,4. Tried moving it by a tooth and clocking it... nothing. I figured that if timing was off it would still try to fire but nothing. I was wondering if the spark is weak if my coil could be bad.

Can't get my freshly built motor to start. 1. New Rotor, cap and wires. 2. Set the motor and distributor to TDC 3. New Weber 4. Using the distributor and coil from previous motor (that was running when I pulled the motor) Engine cranks, I have confirmed that there is spark and fuel. Car won't start even with starter fluid. Any ideas of what I'm missing... weak coil, did I miss a wire/ground, etc.??? Thanks for your help.

The EJ22 out of the 2nd gen legacy is a very reliable engine, I know there are conversion kits out there for the Vanagon, not sure about the older bay window.

Sounds unanimous... Good, thought I was going crazy.

They were a cool accessory when I was your age... LOL

Those are "Turbo" brand... very 80's...

25 views but no suggestions... someone must have a suggestion.

I was wondering that as well.

Soak with PB Blaster on both sides and let sit. Steady pressure on a breaker bar if needed. If they are that stuck then I would use a tap to clean them out and get new bolts when you reinstall