jarl

If your '95 looks like my '99, the front O2 sensor is the one right behind the passenger side axle. On my car the O2 cable is clamped to one of the engine mounting bolts and it's pretty obvious. The bulbous thing where it's mounted contains the front cat converter. The downstream O2 sensor (actually a "cat condition sensor") should be mounted... well, downstram Look for the cable, and follow it (IIRC above the 2nd cat)

If you have a small voltage on the ground lead that means the ground is not connected anywhere, i.e. the wire is open somewhere. The O2 sensor doesn't take a lot of amps, so the voltage drop between the battery and that pin should be 0V.

Probably not related w/ your problem, but make sure you take care of the tensioner. I think the FSM or one of the endwrench articles shows how to test it.

I found a thread about a guy adding a turbo to his 2.5 impreza (see the other '97 GT thread). Has all the instructions you may need. The engine lasted less than two years, as far as I can tell Honestly, adding a low boost turbo may work, but I'm not sure the gain is worth it. And as GD says, with your miles and overheating I would probably not bother. Fix it, enjoy it as it is, and save the money for a WRX or STI

Sure! The question is for how long http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2199333&highlight=ej25+turbo The '99 Outback, AFAIK, has the same engine your car has. PD: For soobie performance mods check NASIOC. From my experience USMB is the place to go if you want to increase the reliability of your car without breaking the bank. You'll find excellent advise here, including some on performance mods (like the concise post by Torxxx), but NASIOC seems to be the playground of people who don't mind having to replace the engine from time to time to get there a few seconds earlier Edit: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=50 And then... this: http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=22065

Make it triple posting If your car is running at this point I would HIGHLY recommend to drive it for some time to know what's wrong with it. You don't want to throw a lot of money on the engine and discover you need a lot of other parts to have a drivable car. About the forced induction: the '97 GT came with the open deck EJ25, right? If so, it may not be the right engine to begin with.

I think the code raised by a rusted fuel filler pipe is P0440. The "incorrect flow" suggests the purge solenoid is not doing what it's supposed to. Are you sure it's working? And yes... it would help to know which year is the car, and confirming the engine is a '99 EJ22

Just out of curiosity: which ground was the one that "almost did it"?

Come on... you think that JUST having a baby and some other minor issues will excuse you? Congratulations man... I hope you are recovering some of your sleep

Crap... I was afraid of that I put a full bottle of it, and seems to have changed things a little bit when warm. I have driven some 50 miles so far, so I guess I'm reaching the point where we can say the magic-in-a-bottle is a no go I'll need to do another flush in the not-so-distant future, though... the ATF is still not as clear as I would like it to be. That's the only chance left

Yep... I'm hoping the cure takes a few miles/days. After all, hope should be the last thing you lose I have seen some threads about the '99 seal failure. $6 piece of rubber, but replacing it costs how much? I don't think anyone around here has a how-to, right ? I don't see myself swapping the transmission any time soon either... Oh well... let's wait and see...

If you want to be absolutely sure: identify the (-) terminal on the blower motor, and connect it to ground through a fused jump wire. If it works you have your culprit.

Yep... it looks like the '99 had a couple built-in "niceties" in them Part of the reason to do the fluid change was the thread you mention. I put a bottle of Trans-X with the new fluid, but so far the changes have been limited. When cold I saw a similar -or worse- delay as before. After driving it some 10 miles, though, the delay has been reduced a lot (I had not driven it more than 5 miles after replacing the fluid). I'll have to check again after it cools down. The other thing that annoys the cr__ out of me is a hard downshifting into 2nd., and that doesn't seem to have been corrected. At least not yet

Regretfully, I have to agree 100% with this comment I remember reading somewhere that the EJ25 doesn't take too well being overheated, and the main bearings may suffer in the process. If so, the engine may be a good candidate for a rebuild, not just HGs. Maybe the collective brain may touch this topic?

There's the trick, Watson: I made two holes on the jug's cap for the hoses to fit tightly, so I could keep a vacuum inside the jug. The vacuum cleaner sucked air from the jug (near the top), which in turn sucked the oil from the transmission. I measured the distance from the top of the dipstick (where it stops against the tube) to the cold "full" mark, and placed a stop on the hose at exactly the same distance, so the whole thing stopped sucking ATF at exactly the right height The only problem was that the *really* cold ATF was so thick, and the hose so thin (1/4" OD) that it took forever for it to finish. Next time I'll do the same thing but with a warm transmission. If the transmission spills the excess ATF through a vent or something like that, that may explain the mess below the front differential. We'll see if that improves. I hope there isn't any permanent damage to the tranny. The delay on the transmission seems to be worst now than it used to be with all the crap it had before. Maybe the tranny is missing the sludge

I think this is what you are looking for: BOLT FLANGE 14X111X25 [Part# 901000177] $3.31 each from 1stSubaruParts, which is located in Renton

No idea if your car is a B12 or B13 (btw: it's a good idea to include that information with your post so people don't need to go to gather the information). That being said, opposed forces can help you out: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_3/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/illustration_3/ There's a good chance the bolt is the same for both chassis

...and it was supposed to be a quickie I measured the level again this morning after letting the car sit overnight. This time I got a very clear reading... way over the hot "full" mark. I used two pieces of hose, a jug and a vacuum cleaner to suck some fluid out of the stick, and now the level is just a notch short of the cold "full" mark. Approx. 1.2 quarts came out so, when adding the 8 oz. from yesterday, this thing was 1.5 qt. overfilled I'm somewhat curious about something: what are the symptoms of an overfilled transmission? What kind of permanent damage can be expected?

In case you bought the car without an owner's manual (that would contain much more information than you can imagine), you can get one from mysubaru.com From the same site you can buy the FSM, but there are plenty of sites where you can find it for free.

Just to make sure: on these engines burping the cooling system is just a notch short of being an art. Did you look for instructions on how to do it correctly? From your description it sounds like you have a bubble in the cooling system. And yes... it's "suspicious" it didn't have a thermostat to begin with.

I don't know how to confirm this, but I'm under the impression your car's cat is not built into the Y pipe. At least in my car that's not the case... (i.e. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_24/exhaust_system/exhaust/illustration_2/ ) I would just visit a pull-a-part, specially if located in a low rust area.

You can measure the resistance of the dimmer at the illumination module. According to the '99 FSM the connector has 6 pins, and you are interested on pins #1, #3 and #4 (both ends of the resistance and the swiper arm, in that order). The outputs from the dimmer are pins #2 and #5. When moving the dimmer, the voltage between the dimmers should fluctuate in a linear (or not ) way. It should be evident if something is wrong. Again, make sure you don't short something out while doing the testing. I remember seeing a thread not long ago about swapping to LEDs... I can't remember if it was at Scoobymods or NASIOC, though...

This should be a quickie How on earth do you get a good measurement of the ATF level on a '99 OBW? I replaced the ATF on my transmission yesterday, and added exactly the same amount of atf I removed. Everything would be fine, except when I removed the plug and filter 5.6 quarts of ATF came out. That's almost 2 quarts more than what other people have mentioned, which implies the tranny was -and is- overfilled. I measured the level several times and removed some 8 ounces of ATF, but I 'm still not satisfied with the reading. So... any tricks to measure the level?

(You last post came in while I was writing mine ) LEDs are polarized so, unless you bought some elaborate LED+circuit, none of them should have turned on. I hope you have not fried anything... Make sure all the LEDs are connected in the right direction... just turn around the ones that were not turning on. //-------------------------- Original post below -------------------------------------- I'm afraid you just discovered the ugly side of the LEDs... They won't illuminate below a certain voltage (or is it current?). They will dim to a certain point and then shut down: You'll need something to convert the output of the illumination controller (presumably current) to PWM. But every single bulb connected to that circuit has to be a LED, or it may die faster than usual. I'm not sure which pins on the IP are the relevant ones, but in theory you can measure that voltage anywhere on that circuit. For example, you could pop one of the switches on the center console out and measure the volts there. If you want to measure how much voltage is making it to the LEDs, though, you'll need to use some creativity (access is probably a pain in the lower back). In any case, be very careful. I understand these modules have a nasty habit of going belly up. Try adding a fuse (probably one or two amps at most) to one of your volt meter probes in case you touch something you are not supposed to. BTW: some modern cars use LED lighting, so I would assume they have some PWM module you can hunt at a pick-a-part.

All the cars, regretfully, are becoming too large. The garage, however, is still the same size. Where any of our car's fits with room to spare, a friend's Sienna has to be parked with micrometer if you want to be able to close the garage door.