jarl

A Colorado body for $400!!! I want one!!! All I can find aroud here are rust buckets

I see your car is an automatic, so one extra precaution: make sure you don't pull the torque converter along with the engine, or you'll have to re-seat it. I was aware of this when I pulled my OBW engine and it still happened :/ I think there are a couple of holes where you can insert a scredriver -or something- to hokd the TC in place. I'll need to find out this again in the next few days... I have a '01 in the operating room EDIT: For lifting points: as mentioned, the metal bracket where the connectors are mounted (unless it's badly rusted), and the A/C bracket.

Uhm... Have you checked the transmission fluid level? I know the ~2000 Soobie transmissions have a delayed engagement problem, but you may want to check the level first. Replacing the ATF won't hurt, though. Just make sure you fill the correct hole

First thing that comes to mind is to buy a USB vag-com adapter from ebay and download FreeSSM and see what's going on

Looks like instead of the single 3.5mm jack you got two RCAs (white+blue... not red? weird...) plus one for video (yellow). If so, there should be a way to set the stereo's input to "Video" (as opposed to "Aux"). Note, however, that the OEM stereos with video input disable it when in gear or above a certain speed. There's a way to disable it http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2103228 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2170052

Oh my... this is sweet I think I can hear my '99 saying "thanks" from the garage I was considering replacing the transmission before, but the idea of crawling underneath the car to remove the transmission wasn't really that interesting. But if I remove both things together it would be much, much easier. My only concern now is whether the cherry picker I got would be capable of dealing with the engine+transmission :/ I got the 1 ton from Harbor Freight... any estimate of how much the engine+transmission can weight?

How to read transmission codes: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113278-how-to-read-transmission-codes/

Perhaps this would be a good place to start: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118004-the-unofficial-how-to-lift-your-impreza-thread/ The towing part is a bit more difficult My guess is that shorter differential gearing and/or not-too-tall tires will help your cause, but it's just a guess.

No hard feelings, Gary Sensei I think there's a miscomunication somewhere. My understanding is that the OP is looking for a used pre-'00 Legacy, and he already have two others on his driveway, so technically the '99 is still on the table and he should be aware of that year's transmission issues. If the year limit is stringent (i.e. wants a car similar to the ones he has) then he should probably avoid the '99 (EJ25D and potentially flaky transmission). If he wants utmost reliability then he should stay with a non-interference engine, meaning an EJ22 up to some time in '96 Now my question to the OP would be: is the year limit set in stone?

I wouldn't go that far as GB but the original post is not clear at all. You have a '00 Impreza TS and you want to do what exactly?

Yo! I resent that comment So far there has been no fix The car has been running like that for more than two years. I should probably try the trans-x again, but I'm still debating whether I should replace the transmission instead. I just got a cherry picker to work on another soobie I bought, so I'm thinking of going back to the '99 when I'm done. I need to re-seal the back of the engine, and I may decide to replace the transmission then.

From what I have read -and experienced- some '99 automatic gearboxes have a problem with an internal seal (or was it an o'ring?) that translates in delayed forward engagement and/or hard downshifts.People have been successful correcting this with trans-x, but in my case it didn't work

Try checking the power steering fluid to see if there are bubbles. I read somewhere (here?) that tightening too much the P/S belt cover when doing work on the alternator may push the P/S reservoir to one side, allowing bubbles to get in. As a matter of fact the site was still on my browser history Here you go: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/why-is-the-power-steering-making-noise-on-my-subaru-outback/

I found some videos yesterday of a Subaru Master Mechanic called Mike Bauer (posted on Youtube by user Carey Holtzman) replacing a soobie headgaskets (just a few months after using cheap headgaskets from ebay on the same car). I don't remember seeing these videos the last time I was looking into taking apart an engine (ended up buying an EJ22 instead), but now that I'm in the same boat again these look like something more than one person around here can use. I made a Google search on USMB for this guy's name and nothing came up, so I apologize if these have been posted already. It would be interesting if a local guru could give his opinion on this guy's methods, though, since I have no experience -yet- replacing head gaskets so I'd rather not comment on how good or bad his advise may be. A lot -if not all- has been covered before, but it's interesting to have it on video nevertheless. Now... is there a video of someone using the "flat glass method" on his/her block's mating surfaces? I'd really like to see that So, here are the videos: - Engine removal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wInfoo0KxGE - Cylinder head removal: - Cylinder head installation:

For what it's worth: that's Japanese I can't find any information about that unit, though :/

Thank you Grossgary. I really appreciate all the help you (and a few others) have provided in the last couple of years I went through your list at OpposedForces to get part numbers, and while checking one of them I found a thread at NASIOC including all of those parts and then some. And then I remembered all the "oh cr*p" moments of the EJ22 transplant I did a couple of years ago, so I ended up with a looong list that ended up costing more than the kit I mentioned originally The good thing is that I ordered the 642 gaskets so if these thing fails in the near future I can only blame myself and not the single layer gaskets that came with the kit, and a couple of maintenance items (i.e. thermostat+gasket, PCV valve). I ordered a lot of things that I remember were badly rusted on the Outback when I did the transplant, and a couple of things that may or may not need replacement on the Legacy, but that I know need to be replaced on the Outback. In the end I paid more than I wished, but I'd like to think I was buying some peace of mind As a reference, the part numbers I ended with were: Camshaft seals: 806732150 Crankshaft seal: 806733030 Exhaust manifold gaskets: 44011AC030 Head gaskets: 11044AA642 Intake manifold gasket: 14035AA382 Oil pump o'ring: 10991AA000 Spark plug tube gaskets: 10966AA000 Valve cover gasket: 13294AA052 Valve cover washers: 13271AA071 Water pump gasket: 21114AA050 (Some of these numbers have been superseded). Beside these, the other rather expensive things I ordered were: - Exhaust studs (cheap) and nuts (obnoxiously expensive). The Outback's were badly rusted, and the Legacy are probably rusted as well (rust belt) - Thermostat+gasket - PCV valve ... and some other cheap bits that add to the final bill. I still need to buy the timing kit (Gates TCK307) and water pump (Aisin WPF-002). But it will need to be tomorrow

Anyone? I have a coupon that expires today :/

Allright... I'm doing some research and found there's a kit from Subaru that includes the head gaskets and then some. The part number is 10105AA860, costs $240 give or take, and someone at an online subaru parts dealer was kind enough to send me the attached image with all the stuff it includes. I have a couple of questions, though: 1 - the headgaskets listed are Part# 11044AA521. Apparently these map to #11044AA633, which is the single layer gasket. I've read everywhere to go for the #11044AA642 instead, which is the head gasket for the turbo engines. Does anyone knows the part number for the kit that includes the MLS head gaskets? (and while we are on topic: do these gaskets increase the compression too much? I've seen so much stuff I'm already numb :/ ) 2 - Is it really necessary to get all this stuff? I mean: I'm not rebuilding the engine completely, and this kit seems to include every singe gasket/o'ring/whatnot. Is there another kit containing just the "essentials"? On top of these $240 I have to buy the timing kit :/ Thanks!

Yep. The hidraulic lifters in these cars seem to take forever to stop making noise. Did you prime the lifters before installing them?

...and Texas Direct stopped working somehow :/ I think that was the last one I knew. Most other are scrambling the VIN number to prevent use by outside people

The important question would be if the failure incidence is bigger on the EJ25x engines than in engines from other manufacturers, although the number of miles must be taken into account. When you read that 95% of the subarus made in the last 10 years are still on the road there's a good chance those cars will have high miles and need maintenance, including head gaskets. I just bought a 2001 with 180K miles that needs HGs. Do I consider it failed prematurely? Not really. If it had 95k that would be different. I read somewhere that engines after 2009 or so started having new HG issues at lower miles, but don't cite me on that.

I think your answer is there somewhere I understand the SOHC engines after 2004 or so can be considered as reliable as any other engine. Older engines (both SOHC and DOHC) can be taken to the same degree of reliability if the head gaskets are replaced using the MLS gaskets, although apparently Subary considers the single layer gaskets are good enough.

(note to self: whenever you leave a thread open, re-read it before responding with an answer to a different question)

I was about to reply "I didn't mention it", but I realize now that I used "intake" instead of "intake manifold". So, as John said: keep the intake plastic bits from your car, but the intake manifold of the donor car (the EJ25 manifold will not fit the EJ22). I can't remember if you are supposed to swap the throttle body, though :/

I can't vouch for the ECM being the same, but the '96 to '98 EJ22 should fit if you get the Y pipe as well. As mentioned before there are plenty of *very* good threads about that engine swap (I used them when I did exactly the same transplant on my '99 OBW). If I remember correctly, the things you'll find will be: - the '95 has the "right" exhaust ports AND it's non-interference. That's a huge plus on my book. - everything bolt on without issues, but the '95 bell housing uses just 4 bolts where the '99 has 8. Not a big deal. - the starter motor bolts on without problem - use the donor car intake bits - the '95 charcoal canister is in the front of the car, but the '99 is on the back. You'll need to bridge the two pipes going to the front with a piece of hose - there's a slight difference in the way some hoses on the passenger side of the engine, underneath the intake manifold, are connected. I don't remember exactly what I did but I think I just copied the '99 - use the flywheel from the EJ25 on the EJ22. Direct fit. - just in case you miss it (somehow): be careful detaching the engine! Don't pull the torque converter with it! There are instructions to re-seat it, but it's easier just to do the right thing in the first place - the EJ22 is kind of dull on this application. Not everything in life is perfect :/ - plan on doing some preventive maintenance to the EJ22 before you mount it: timing belt, water pump, seals, valve cover gaskets and...? Look for those threads (hint: google "site:ultimatesubaru.org EJ22 swap"). Some of them are very long but EXTREMELY helpful. Best luck!