jarl

I had listened to you before, Sensei (and GeneralDisorder, and lots of others to whom I apologize for not mentioning their names) So far... - Oil separator (plastic) was replaced with the one from the EJ25 (stamped metal) and resealed using anaerobic. - Oil pan was replaced with the one from the EJ25, and resealed using ultragrey - Oil pickup tube o'ring replaced - Transmission is automatic, so no clutch to overhaul. The flexplate from the EJ25 was transferred into the EJ22 - Oil pump o'ring replaced, back plate screws re-tightened with blue threadlocker, and the pump resealed with anaerobic - Water pump replaced with new one, resealed - Camshafts seals and crankshaft seal replaced - Camshaft o'rings replaced - Timing belt idler pulleys and tensioner pulley replaced - Valve cover gaskets and screw seals replaced - Sanded out a good deal of the rusted/corroded crap out of the exhaust manifold. It's not possible to make it completely smooth without removing a lot of material, though... Hmmm... Other than fixing one of the exhaust manifold threads, I think that's pretty much it (and re-booting the axles!) The main concerns I have right now are potential corrosion of the cylinders, drained HLAs, and junk on the cooling system and inside the fuel lines (underneath the manifold)

Allright... you asked for it... The clear stuff was water soluble, so I hope it wasn't oil related. Besides, the engine is an EJ22 and came from a car that was crashed, so I don't expect head gasket issues at this point. The first picture shows the thermostat area. Most of the clear stuff had fallen already. 2nd picture is the block behind the water pump, and the last one the water pump rotor. It looked awful...

I have replaced most, if not all the things on my list. I have tried to clean everything as much as I can (alas, no success there ). I have spent a fair amount of time just looking at the EJ22 from every possible angle... So... what am I missing? Is there a spell you need to pronounce loudly before installing the engine, or any particular dance to invoke the automotive gods? More importantly: what is it that people often forget when replacing the engine? (the temperature sensor seems to be in that list). I would hate to tighten the last bolt and realize I forgot something idiotic than can't be done without removing the engine again... I'll be installing the intake manifold after bolting the engine (easier access to the flex plate bolts). Is there any easy way to blow any crap that might have made it's way into the fuel lines? So far in my list: - Fill the cooling system with plain water to flush it, then fill with the appropriate coolant (green?) - 5W30 oil. I think I'm going to use MMO the first few miles, and change the oil and filter again after that - Spray some lubricant inside the pistons? - ? I'm putting a post-it over the ignition switch saying "Oil?" as well

After-the-fact debriefing: I re-booted both front axles today. The passenger-side one 100% from inside the engine bay, driver's side partially from inside the engine bay and partially from underneath. Instead of buying the (craftman) recommended drive pin punch, I bought a 5 piece kit at harbor freight. With coupons it was $5 or so, and while it doesn't have a perfeclty-fitting size, it worked fine. I bought the clamp pliers somewhere (o'reilly?) for $10, and some aftermarket boot kits from rockauto (I think this is going to bite me in the butt, though). I had the circlip tool from before (harbor freight as well, probably $3 or so). Anyway... the passenger side was extremely easy to do. I couldn't remove the Y pipe before, so doing this from the top was almost the only way around. Driving the pin out/in wasn't a problem at all, and things came apart/together without a hitch. Grossgary: "extremely messy" is an understatement!!! I went through half a roll of blue paper towels on just this axle! The rings you mentioned were a nuisance but not too bad. I just held the whole trunnion with one hand, removed the circlip with the other, and off it went. I cleaned the rings one by one to avoid mixing them up, followed all the other instructions by the book and was done in probably 1 or 1.5 hrs (I took my time). Driver's side access from the engine bay is not that easy. I removed the pin from the engine bay and began pulling the axle (Fairtax: pushing the transmission to the opposite side helped a lot!), but it was soon too obvious it was not going to work (steering wheel shaft). I ended up doing things from underneath the car, and it went somewhat smooth, except every time something fell it a) was grease/greasy water and landed on my hair, or was something that is supposed to stay clean and landed on the dirty floor. In any case, after a ~$30 investment and a couple of hours of my time, both axles have been re-booted. I have the impression the axles are going to fail sooner than later (apparently the booths have been ripped for a while), but what the heck. Finally, to answer my own question: Yes, if your engine is out and you need to replace your inner boots, go for it

Hey! Where did that can go? That zinc-it looks like a good solution... why did you remove the post?

Nice... I don't see myself replacing this fasteners any time soon, though... I would need a list of every single bolt involved, and more importantly I would need to take this thing apart again... it's just not happening. My guess is that the corrosion will affect mostly the bolt's exposed heads and the through-holes that may receive a water/salt spray from daily driving. I'll apply a rust preventing paint to some of the bolts, but I was hoping there was something that could be applied on the visible bolts to prevent rusting... Oh well... I guess I'll have to keep an eye on this

It looks great... you lucky bastard My approach to cars is to assume them as a gamble... On most of the purchases I have made in the last 10 years I have done a good deal because something simple was broken on the car... Large discounts because of a non-working power window (pinched wire), or a dirt-cheap Saturn with a bad clutch (that ended up being an incorrectly purged hydraulic clutch... about $6 in repairs). Alas... my bet on an OBW wasn't that successful. I may end up with a very nice car for a price somewhat below to similar cars around here (3~4K for a late '90s/early '00s soobie), but the bliss is fading Oh well...

The saga -and the never ending list of questions from the newbie- continue. Please be patient with me Soooo... both engines sitting on my garage right now have a fair share of rusted bolts and nuts. I fund this wonderful product called Evaporust, that does an amazing work at removing the rust from steel parts. Immerse a rusted bolt on this stuff overnight and it will come out in almost pristine condition. EXCEPT... it removes the zinc plating on the screws as well How can I protect the newly-bared bolts and nuts so they don't rust again in a few months? Will they rust in a few months in the first place? Out of the top of my head, I have used it so far in: - Some of the oil pan bolts - Timing belt cover screws - A/C and power steering mounting bolts and tensioning screws - Engine mounts-to-block bolts oh my... the list goes on: bolts for water pump, oil pump, separator plate... argh!

Last night I replaced the (dented) oil pan on the EJ22 I bought to replace the EJ25 on my car, with the EJ25 oil pan. Perfect fitting, so no problems whatsoever. The main difference between the two is the shape: the EJ22's is round-ish, while the EJ25 has a flat bottom, making it squarish The depth seems to be the same.

Great! Now... where do I find those brass/copper nuts Which other cars use the M10x1.25 studs? Quidam: thank you for confirming the Subaru nuts are SS. The only issue right now is that the local dealer is really, *really* poor. BTW: the studs I got from 1stSubaruParts are not SS... which makes sense considering they are bolted directly into aluminum. They look like cheap zinc studs, though I'd like to think they have some fancy protection (phosphate+zinc, hopefuly?)...

Thank you I was somewhat concerned all the work I've done so far was headed for the dump. The engine is almost ready...

Allright... I'm slowly -but slowly- putting together the EJ22 I'm going to install on my '99 OBW. Did I mention slowly? Anyway... today I removed the water pump (got a new one just in case) and I found a large amount (> 1/2 cup) of some kind of sludge inside of it/above the thermostat. I'm sure it's not oil (it was water soluble), but why on earth will something like that form there? Since the engine sat for so long (5 years), is it possible what I found are coolant residues? I have a picture of the thing but all I can think of right now is my bed... BTW: is there any lubricant that would ease the re-inauguration of this engine? Something thinner/thicker/what? TIA!

"Use sunscreen" Good advise...

Hello GD, Nipper I saw flanged zinc nuts somewhere (I've checked so many places I don't remember where), but with the mess I found on the ej22 I'm somewhat reluctant to use anything but stainless. How are those zinc nuts holding up so far? Btw: I bought the studs from 1stsubaruparts, but the finish is quite different from the ones I removed from the other two engines. Does anybody know what finish are they supposed to be? I would assume phosphate, but these look so cheap...

I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, but: I need new nuts for the exhaust manifold studs, and I would really like to use something that won't corrode and get stuck to the manifold that easily. Stainless seems to be the way to go, but I have not been able to find M10x1.25 flanged nuts in SS -as a matter of fact I have not found any SS nut with that pitch-. Also, SS nuts doesn't seem to be used for load-bearing purposes, as what I have found so far (M10x1.5) has very low specs. I know they exist because the EJ25 I'm replacing had them (before you ask: the studs, not the nuts, were somewhat corroded, and it would be a tall order to remove the nuts -one had to be cut already- AND... I don't know which grade were those) but where can I buy them from?

If you are looking at the Misumoauto timing kits, they come with 4 seals indeed, even for the SOHC engines. People around here will suggest you to discard them and use OEM seals, though. They are quite cheap at 1stSubaruParts anyway. Rockauto carries a kit to re-seal the power steering pump. I got mine from them and although I have not installed it yet the components seem to be of decent quality.

That's my definition of 300%... if you ask the same thing several times and you get the same answer each time And I do it very often GeneralDisorder (corrected!): that was exactly the answer I wanted to hear... I already have most parts to start the rebuilding and a tube of ultragray, but I was waiting for someone to convince me to go with the anaerobic

Uhm... I guess that's where bad luck may show it's ugly face... The reason I'm considering doing the boots on the car is because a thread at NASIOC say it's possible (and because I really want to avoid being under a car with the current heat wave). I actually found the page on the FSM about replacing the boots, but on one point they say not to remove the axle, and the next one they say to do the same as the full axle overhaul (i.e. remove it, mount it on a vise, etc.) BTW: on the FSM I can see nothing resembling a disc other than the bearings on the trunnion... are those the one you are talking about? I wonder if someone around here has re-booted axles without removing them... the thread at NASIOC is kin of old to revive it... Edit: Sorry Fairtax... I didn't see your post on time. Somehow I had not considered juggling the transmission, although the FSM implies it's possible to remove the axle without any weird manouver. And while I agree it may be a PITA, reading about broken breaker bars, pullers, brass hammers and whatnot are starting to sound like $time$ to me...

Question for GD: The Permatex instructions say it will fill gaps of up to .050" or so when used with a primer ("activator"). Any idea how/if it works on large gaps without the primer? Not that it applies to the water pump (nice machining there), but I can see some places where the surface may not be that flat (i.e. oil pan). BTW: I was really considering using the nice gasket that came with my Aisin water pump...

Wait... can the axles be separated from the transmission without taking anything else apart? That can't be true, can it? Then what is it that's going to bite me in the butt? The outer boots seem to be fine, and I already spent all the money of the "since you are there" allowance so I'm not replacing the axles without confirming they need to be changed. So I'll be replacing the boots and yes, I'll probably be doing it from inside the engine bay instead of doing it from underneath. Uncomfortable and messy beats uncomfortable, messy and with a lot of crap falling in my face I need to clean the mess inside the engine bay as well (from the axle grease and the oil leak that lead to the demise of the EJ25D)... that's going to be some serious fun

I guess the right question would be: is it really that easy to pull the inner end of the front axles from the transmission as some threads suggest? What's the catch? I'm waiting for some parts to arrive to start putting together my '99 OBW, so the EJ22 is still on the stand and I have good access to the sides of the gearbox. Both inner boots are shredded, but the previous owner told me he had not noticed any noise coming from the axles, so I'm thinking about just replacing the boots. My goal is to separate the inner ends of the axles from the transmission, clean everything, reboot and put together -said the optimist guy-. But I know there's something ready to bite me in the lower back -there's always something ready to mess you up when fixing a car- so... what is it? I have read about removing one of the strut bolts and loosening the other one, and the one I like better: removing the bolt holding the front suspension arm -if I remember correctly-. On the last one, though, there's a note saying "this is for a EA81". Is the post still valid for a '99 OBW?

Air in the lines would make the pedal "spongy", but for the pedal to drop suddenly there got to be a leak somewhere. Unless there's something *really* weird going on with the ABS, my vote is for a damaged master cylinder as well. On old cars this is usually the product of pressing the brake pedal too much while bleeding the brakes. The pedal will travel further down, into areas that are usually corroded by the brake fluid that hasn't been changed in a decade or two, and the o'ring/sealing surfaces get damaged. So, when you are done installing your brand new brake pads and shoes, your brakes are worse than when you began. From your description this has been going on for a long time, though, so I don't think the corrosion/crap on the master cylinder of a 2005 MY would be bad enough to produce serious damage.

I'm afraid what you need is a new dealer The line about blowing the brakes is just BS.

Normally I stay away from necroposting, but I think this will benefit future buyers and let you know which questions to ask: I bought a kit from Mizumo including the cam seals and the GMB water pump. Delivery time was Ok, and this is what I got in the box: - Aisin water pump (OEM? better than GMB, as far as I know) - LYO (Lian Yu?) cam & crankshaft seals. These came inside the water pump box, meaning they may have been damaged/deformed during shipping. I'm not installing them so I'll never know - Kabuki (NSK) tensioner , 40BD49DU bearing (can't find literature about it). I can confirm the lenght of the pivot bushing is too short (i.e. will prevent the tensioner from moving freely as it should) - Kabuki (NTN) lower idler, 6005LU bearing (single row) - (2) Kabuki (NTN) idlers, 6006LU bearing (single row) - No-brand belt, marked EB 1172. The belt was loose inside the box and was bent at a tighter radius than desirable I guess I'm satisfied with their service, but somewhat disenchanted with their packaging. The components are pretty much what I though I was ordering, except a better-than-expected water pump. Would buy from them again, but would ask them to be a bit more careful with packaging.

Uhm... I see a bunch of people racing to the junkyards now... maybe it wasn't that smart to ask in a public forum