jarl

So... how much did you pay for all the components? Please document your swap... I'm interested in the process and potential pitfalls

That has to be the most over-mounted sensor in automotive history Two M8 bolts to hold a thick steel plate, to which a light metal plate is welded, holding (just by pressure) the sensor

Bump for an interesting question... From your description there may be a problem with the MAF, but let's see what the resident Gurus have to say BTW: look for the FSM for your car. For the '95 it says the signal for the MAF at the ECU connector should be 0-0.3V with the engine off, and 0.8-1.2V with the engine running.

I think a cracked vacuum hose can produce that, without leaving CEL traces...

Yep. I knew I had seen some notes before: (From PDF at http://scoobytnt.com/threads/17046-Rear-wheel-Bearing-Removal-and-Replacement - an EndWrench article) "The new genuine Subaru rear wheel bearings are not to be packed with grease of any kind. The bearing is ready to install out of the box." (the linked page includes the vehicles to which it applies). There's also SOA document "Wheel bearing installation guide", MSA5TT0201: "24. Prepare the new tapered roller bearing for installation. Do not remove the bearing stay (plastic piece inside the bearing) at this time. Do not dissasemble the bearing. Do not add any grease to the bearing." (the bold letters are their's). Both documents are about first gen subies, though. No idea what the 2nd gen document may say.

I recall reading a Subaru TSB that said NOT to repack the bearings. I don't know which year it applied to, though...

It's interesting... I have always thought this car runs too high in the RPM range for highway speeds, when compared with my other car (Saturn SL1, 1.9L 5 speed). Given I get somewhat closer to 20 mpg in the city (and the car's best had been 26 or so highway), I couldn't be happier I still need to replace at least the knock sensor (the car is extremely dull at low RPMs), the spark wires and the O2 sensor... I hope the MPG will improve still a little bit.

Ok... I need to brag a little bit 29.8 MPG on the highway at 65~75 mph. '99 OBW with a '95 EJ22. I put Seafoam in the tank before fueling (I think the injectors are leaky), and removed the roof crossbars. Not bad for an auto

Je je... that makes sense. Still, the car is listed as being sold by a dealer, not by the owner. In my book, that means that someone is making money on the car, ergo the car is worth much less. I agree some minor damage is acceptable as long as you get something in exchange for it. But with the long list of things not working as they should, a cracked windshield, blown engine, and dubious transmission, I wouldn't pay that money for it. With that many miles the struts are probably shot, and there are probably other things needing attention.

The main question is regarding the cables. It looks like these engines are very picky about them.

" Has some very minor things like front windows don't open, needs switch. Etc.". "The body is in perfect condition the only issues is minor dings, a minor crack on the front bumper & a cracked windshield. Newer items I just have recently done is 2 tires, rear brakes, etc. It has some very minimal issues that can be easily fixed like the front windows don't open, the switch needs to be replaced. the locks have always had an issue, the rear windshield wiper doesn't work". The intake manifold looks oily (catastrophic engine failure?), and the fender has a little bump on it. IMHO, not even remotely worth what she's asking. I have some issues with cars being sold by "tech centers" as well. You should ask for the VIN to run a carfax or something like that... I won't be surprised if you find it was sold at auction not long ago.

I don't see any problem with the 2.0 engine. The car is being targeted at the same people who would buy a Miata (~170 HP) or something like that (think British sports car... something light and fun to drive). They would be placing themselves against a hard competition if they tried to compete against a Z370, a Genesis Coupe or the likes. In fact it looks like other makers are going to start producing cars to fill the same niche as the GT86, so the market is going to get really fun in the not-so-distant future. Besides, Toyota has a cars to fill the niches above the GT86. They would be reluctant to compete against themselves

Just out of curiosity: which brand of spark plug cables did you use? Also, make sure you do a vacuum gauge test of the engine when you have some time.

Congrats! Now... It's noise free, but is the transmission working correctly?

Given the reluctance to say what he did, it looks like you nailed it (Just kidding...) Yo, DM! Don't keep us hanging!

Scenario #14: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm "Simple diagnosis for a plugged cat: A common vacuum gauge will help, attached to the intake manifold. Manifold vacuum will normally reduce when you first tip in on the throttle. On a steady throttle position, the vacuum will rise as the engine rpms rise and the load is reduced. With the cat plugged, the vacuum will stay low. In your case, you can watch the vacuum drop to almost atmospheric pressure as you run out of power under load at 4k rpm, even at the partial throttle opening. FWIW, this is the same phenomena you'll see when the engine is running perfectly at full throttle, full load, full RPM. No manifold vacuum means that the engine can't draw any more air/fuel charge..." "A partially plugged cat or exhaust can cause some interesting problems. The easiest test is to put a vacuum gauge on a manifold port. Check the vacuum on a warm engine at idle (probably 15" to 18" mercury). Pop the throttle, revving the engine to about 3000 rpm, and hold the revs steady there. The vacuum should drop momentarily, then climb to a higher number (probably 20" to 25"). If the vacuum stays steady, the exhaust probably isn't plugged. If the vacuum starts dropping after a few seconds, the exhaust is probably partially plugged" (from http://www.nichols.nu/tip569.htm)

I'm not sure I understand your post 100%. Your transmission has the external spin-on filter? If so, which is the "tube that runs across the filter"? When draining the transmission (removing the plug) you shouldn't get more than 4 qts, and some more when you remove the filter. There's no easy way (that I'm aware of) to drain the torque converter, so you never have to refill the transmission with the full stated capacity (9 qts?)... only the amount you drained (and that you measured carefully ). If you overfill the transmission the ATF (Dexron III) can get aereated: microscopic (and not-so-microscopic) bubbles form all around. I understand this can damage the transmission...

Je je... you are absolutely right. I forgot I didn't drain & refill, but disconnected the hose from the cooler and spilled & filled. Now you know what's going on: overfilled & aereated

So... you did fill the transmission, right? 7.5 Qt sounds correct as far as I know, but just checking... Some people drain the transmission and fill the front differential BTW: which car we are talking about?

...but before gutting the cat ($$$), check to see if the cat is the problem. Which is why I mentioned the vacuum gauge

I knew it!

Borrow/buy a vacuum gauge and you'll get a bunch of relevant information.

I wrote a long explanation yesterday, but I lost it when Windows decided it had to restart. Heartless' post is a very similar argument, so I'd like to add just one thing to his (?) response: If one of the calipers is sticking it's *extremely* easy to overheat the corresponding rotor. Depending on the metallurgy of the discs used (and many other variables) it may end up distorted in just a few miles LOL... I think I just saw the scene you are referring to (I have not seen the picture yet). Not that it makes any difference in the context, but in Spanish "plata de ___ " means "money destined for ____". "Money for buying shrimp" is a very contorted way of saying something is easy

That's 6600 BTU dissipated in 1/10th of an hour... 19375 Watts

When everything is said and done, someone will have to explain this expression to me