weldersd

if the pulleys are tight, no free play and are smooth rolling, no roughness, then their good to go, I believe the OE water pump uses a metal circulation pump impeller vs the AM plastic, be sure to check the tentioner.

I'm going to throw stop leak at it, see if it improves, it's not that much, just after high revs.

I wish I would have read this before I did my separator/o-ring re-seal. I used a OE main seal and was careful about getting it flush, yea, it leaks:mad:

I second the relay problem, I was having the same problem on our 1996 OBW AT it would do nothing on key turn, A "heat soak relay" fixed the problem for good.

So nobody knows why the 96 OBW 4EAT have one more low/reverse clutch brake and a higher stall speed TC?

BBB is a complete useless joke, small claims are up to 10,000 now, file small claim, get all your receipts, mechanics statements, pictures, etc, together and get ready to battle, if they truly lied as you claim, they will probably loose the case.

I'm running ngk wires w/ ngk iridium plugs, runs excellent.

OK, I think i'm on to something. the service manual shows the speedo gear ratio for non-outback at .83 and .76 for outback model, so I just went on a approx 6mi trip with my garmin gpsmap 76 and I got the following readings: when the car speedo shows 60mph I was traveling approx 63.5 mph according to gps. after a 6 mile trip the car odom read 5.5 mi I divided 200/6=33.3, then .5x33.3=16.65 so at 200mi my car odometer should read approx 16-17 more miles than it is, this would bring us back to pretty close to our original pre-trans swap numbers. so that's good, now the only question remains why the extra clutch plate in the low/reverse clutch brake? I wonder if it has to do with the increased stall speed on the TC? Now that I found out the TC on the new trans has a lower stall speed, I now notice it, definitely engages much sooner.

As I posted there seem to be no differences in the gear ratios, only the clutch number and TC ratios, I wonder If I can get by swapping TC's with the old unit?

ok, so I have the service manual, it's showing some differences with the outback version vs the legacy, it's in pdf so this forum won't let me attach it. here's the differences I see, (legacy 2500cc vs outback 2500cc) TC: Stall torque ratio 1.8-2.0 vs 2.2-2.4 stall speed: 2200-2600 vs 2400-2800 Transmission: clutch number for reverse and low 6 vs 5 that's the only differences I can see per the legacy 1996 service manual. -one more clutch in the low clutch pack, why? stall speeds for TC different, Can I just put the old TC in?

Is there any way to see the ratios of the two and compare? This is making sense though, if it was made for smaller tires, then the engine would be laboring more with the bigger tires, dang, so now what, put on smaller tires, Thanks for the info

update: I replaced the upstream o2 sensor, knock sensor, and I removed the cat's I plugged one end of the pipe and poured detergent in the pipe, let it sit for a while, then rinsed, the cats seem free flowing and clean, I cleaned the pcv valve, it seems to be working just fine (blow test) all vacuum lines are attached and look ok. Mileage got a little better, but still around 20 ish city, when before the trans swap I was getting 23 city. here is the number off the new (used) transmission: TZ102Z2AAA-CG another sticker below that number showing: 933685, can anybody tell me EXACTLY what trans this is and if I need another TCU?

Thanks guys, I already wrapped the "y" with thin gauge aluminum, it helped a little, I also recently replaced my knock sensor and front o2, to try to improve mpgs, seems to be running smoother, we'll see how it goes, I mean come on is 250 miles too much to ask for?? I gotta do the alignment too, when I swapped trannys I must have not got the camber alignment quite right, it now pulls alittle, I love everything about the car all but the smell at a stop light, we had a brat back in the day, it leaked and smoked too, guess it's just a subie thing.

duh sorry, 1996 ej 25 legacy outback yes, I have a good OE parts supplier near by.

Separator plate replaced, still leaks:banghead: I changed the main seal and the small o-ring seal, I used ultra grey on the plate, lightly snug, wait hour then tighten a little more. on the main, I had a block of aluminum i used to square the seal flush with the block. oiled the inside lip. i'm thinking it's the main, should I use a additive to try to stop the leak? I have removed the engine for HG's/timingbelt, last time I removed for the seporator plate fix, on re assembly I stacked the pump, I found a junkyard match and it seems to be working fine, the car runs great, but i'm still getting that smell with the defrost on at a stop light, I hate it, I'm thinking of even making my own exsaust to move the "y" back so it's not right below the drip, dumb design. the leak is way better though, in 3000 miles I don't need to add any oil, whereas before, I had to add 1 qt every 1200 miles.