weldersd

if the pulleys are tight, no free play and are smooth rolling, no roughness, then their good to go, I believe the OE water pump uses a metal circulation pump impeller vs the AM plastic, be sure to check the tentioner.

I'm going to throw stop leak at it, see if it improves, it's not that much, just after high revs.

I wish I would have read this before I did my separator/o-ring re-seal. I used a OE main seal and was careful about getting it flush, yea, it leaks:mad:

I second the relay problem, I was having the same problem on our 1996 OBW AT it would do nothing on key turn, A "heat soak relay" fixed the problem for good.

So nobody knows why the 96 OBW 4EAT have one more low/reverse clutch brake and a higher stall speed TC?

BBB is a complete useless joke, small claims are up to 10,000 now, file small claim, get all your receipts, mechanics statements, pictures, etc, together and get ready to battle, if they truly lied as you claim, they will probably loose the case.

I'm running ngk wires w/ ngk iridium plugs, runs excellent.

OK, I think i'm on to something. the service manual shows the speedo gear ratio for non-outback at .83 and .76 for outback model, so I just went on a approx 6mi trip with my garmin gpsmap 76 and I got the following readings: when the car speedo shows 60mph I was traveling approx 63.5 mph according to gps. after a 6 mile trip the car odom read 5.5 mi I divided 200/6=33.3, then .5x33.3=16.65 so at 200mi my car odometer should read approx 16-17 more miles than it is, this would bring us back to pretty close to our original pre-trans swap numbers. so that's good, now the only question remains why the extra clutch plate in the low/reverse clutch brake? I wonder if it has to do with the increased stall speed on the TC? Now that I found out the TC on the new trans has a lower stall speed, I now notice it, definitely engages much sooner.

As I posted there seem to be no differences in the gear ratios, only the clutch number and TC ratios, I wonder If I can get by swapping TC's with the old unit?

ok, so I have the service manual, it's showing some differences with the outback version vs the legacy, it's in pdf so this forum won't let me attach it. here's the differences I see, (legacy 2500cc vs outback 2500cc) TC: Stall torque ratio 1.8-2.0 vs 2.2-2.4 stall speed: 2200-2600 vs 2400-2800 Transmission: clutch number for reverse and low 6 vs 5 that's the only differences I can see per the legacy 1996 service manual. -one more clutch in the low clutch pack, why? stall speeds for TC different, Can I just put the old TC in?

Is there any way to see the ratios of the two and compare? This is making sense though, if it was made for smaller tires, then the engine would be laboring more with the bigger tires, dang, so now what, put on smaller tires, Thanks for the info

update: I replaced the upstream o2 sensor, knock sensor, and I removed the cat's I plugged one end of the pipe and poured detergent in the pipe, let it sit for a while, then rinsed, the cats seem free flowing and clean, I cleaned the pcv valve, it seems to be working just fine (blow test) all vacuum lines are attached and look ok. Mileage got a little better, but still around 20 ish city, when before the trans swap I was getting 23 city. here is the number off the new (used) transmission: TZ102Z2AAA-CG another sticker below that number showing: 933685, can anybody tell me EXACTLY what trans this is and if I need another TCU?

Thanks guys, I already wrapped the "y" with thin gauge aluminum, it helped a little, I also recently replaced my knock sensor and front o2, to try to improve mpgs, seems to be running smoother, we'll see how it goes, I mean come on is 250 miles too much to ask for?? I gotta do the alignment too, when I swapped trannys I must have not got the camber alignment quite right, it now pulls alittle, I love everything about the car all but the smell at a stop light, we had a brat back in the day, it leaked and smoked too, guess it's just a subie thing.

duh sorry, 1996 ej 25 legacy outback yes, I have a good OE parts supplier near by.

Separator plate replaced, still leaks:banghead: I changed the main seal and the small o-ring seal, I used ultra grey on the plate, lightly snug, wait hour then tighten a little more. on the main, I had a block of aluminum i used to square the seal flush with the block. oiled the inside lip. i'm thinking it's the main, should I use a additive to try to stop the leak? I have removed the engine for HG's/timingbelt, last time I removed for the seporator plate fix, on re assembly I stacked the pump, I found a junkyard match and it seems to be working fine, the car runs great, but i'm still getting that smell with the defrost on at a stop light, I hate it, I'm thinking of even making my own exsaust to move the "y" back so it's not right below the drip, dumb design. the leak is way better though, in 3000 miles I don't need to add any oil, whereas before, I had to add 1 qt every 1200 miles.

find a pick-a-part and hunt down a wrecked trans with a good extension assy. remove the old one, replace the new one, use a new gasket, you'll drain about 4 qts when you remove the trans extension do best to drain the fluid before you remove from car.

I too have pondered this very question, I was thinking manual trans mated to a isuzu pup diesel motor, turbocharged. you would want the lowest gear possible in the rear-end/ trans final drive.

NICE CAR!! your stoked!

Pachuli (spelling?) is a horrid smell, your inspiring me, Iv'e about had it with our 96 OBW, I should look for a older impreza w/ a turbo, that would be badass!!

If you think about it, it does make more sense, the conventional rocker configuration does seem more of a structurally sound design than the bucket/shim config. that's why you don't see many (any?) diesels with HLA design, it's kind of like open vs closed deck engine configurations. edit:I wonder if one of the reasons the HLA designs require a higher octane fuel rating is the consequences of a premature detonation is much greater than a pure mechanical set-up?

can anybody give me a rpm@ 65 mph? i'm showing about 2600

I'm thinking at this point, since I last changed the forward O2 about three years ago, I should probably replace it, especially after removing it, while working on other things, getting dirty, etc, I understand the element on the sensor needs to be relatively clean correct? A previous post said I should use sea foam, what does that do? I don't quite understand how after a trans swap now loosing 5mpgs (is this correct grammar PD?) some snake oil in a can will bring back my mpgs, but hey, i'm no expert. The decline in mpg's from the original rebuild has been progressive, I think it's just time to do the O2 sensor, this is why I hate gas engine, a subaru is the only gas engine I will tolerate, the rest of my vehicles are diesel. I wish subaru would offer a diesel version, that would be the most bad rump roast car ever. and not a over restricted techowiz POS, I mean a simple mechanical, turbocharged, diesel, a guy could dream, right?

It barely passed smog a few months ago, I forget what it was high on, not nox, hc's? how do I resistance test injector modules? I guess I can refer to SM but you guys explain it better.

I love the fact that the valves are hydraulic self-adjusting, why would they veer from them in later versions?