weldersd

Considering I have now pulled the motor four times, replaced just about everything on it, I would say I'm pretty familiar with the motor, and it is definitely a EJ25D, the vin code says it's a late year production version. to answer a question, the process was not long, I removed the motor, replaced seals, replaced motor/broke trans:-\ found new(used) trans, installed and replaced trans extension in four working days. this car is my wifes daily driver so it has to be in service.

Your correct, I only replaced the seals behind the flex plate, the only difference is the trans. the guy at the yard said it was a 4.44 ratio. I didn't know foresters started in 98, hmmm. I also was suspecting the TC lock, but the RPM's at 60mph seem the same as before?? I wonder if I should get the TCU, where is it located? if I posted the number off the new trans would any of you be able to steer me to the correct TCU to buy?

I got a trans from a forrester of the same year, I understood the final drive was the same on the auto's, is this right? the speedo is right on. I did not swap engines, same engine, timing belt has approx 15000 miles on it, that's why I did not change it. The numbers were gone on my old trans so I could not make a match.

Wow, very helpful thanks I use chevron every fill up, i'll try the cleaner wow, I wish we were getting that. no, yes.

I replaced the HG's a while ago, recently replaced separator seals and main seal, when I put in the motor I stacked the pump, I got another trans from a pica-a-part, it's working fine, shifts fine, it was torque binding so I swapped trans-end sections, fixed, but i'm getting about 18 mpg's before it was getting about 23, what happened? I replaced the wires/plugs too.

It would take longer to cut out a piece of 1/4" plywood than to remove the 2 screws that hold in the radiator, if you drain the trans, you have a great opportunity to also back flush the cooler.

I found, after removing the engine twice now, that if you drain the trans, you have less mess, you have to remove the radiator, the radiator is also the trans cooler, since you have to drain the trans cooler, might as well drain the trans and put fresh oil in it.

Plan on taking the head in to be inspected by a good shop, for sure resurface, maybe valves, the gasket replacement will work good if you do the resurface, water pump, thermostat, plugs,wires, use goop(sparingly) on valve covers, all new seals, even main seal, it's right there, for sure separator plate, timing belt, be careful, don't use impact wrenches, the aluminum galls easily, hand tools only. dip head bolts in oil before you install, I soak the gasket in oil too. right before install, oil the crap out of everything when your reassembling.

Pull the motor, it's easy, remember to un-bolt the torque converter bolts(auto) or the TC will come out with the motor, making a terrible mess (don't ask me how I know) also remember to drain the tranny fluid, I replaced the HG's on my wife's outback 40,000 miles ago, runs like a dream, got 194 on the OD, so far so good, and i'm 100% red neck shade tree mechanic. I used the subaru MLS type. Just do it yourself, there such good cars, and you'll feel so good after it's done, Also, remember the oil separator plate retrofit, so you don't have a leak when it's done.

What does smoke the engine mean?

I passed today, BARELY!! ppm HC@idle 100 max:100 that's with the same plugs&wires, just did a air,oil,fuel, filter change, I'm thinking cat, o2's are recent. The way my wife drives this thing, se lugs/bogs it everywhere, she never even close get's on the gas, I think the motors all carbed up, also I have her only use chevron premium, I'm thinking for next test, reg octane. I'm a welder, i'm going to remove my cat and plasma cut it open, clean the element with a wire wheel, and weld back together, I'll do that when I remove the motor to do the separator plate retrofit, I have new oem wires and ngk iridium plugs for then as well, I'll test it in two years and see how's she's lookin. @2500 RPM the number drops to under AVE: 13ppm it's at idle so i'm thinking wires plugs, cat, fixed for next test.

just got the report, idle meas: 124 max:100 2500 rpm, meas:14 max:170 The problem is at idle.

Subaru still recommends the conditioner in my engine, correct?

I'm going to change airfilter, fuel filter, check all vacuum lines, check plugs/clean, check, possibly replace plug wires(although there fairly recent), spray out throttle body, what else? recent history: obtained 1996 outback w/ bad HG@120,000 I installed HG, plus everything else. now 189000 high hc, recent thermostat replacement (oem) I need to remove engine to install oil separator plate fix (leak) so when I changed thermostat I didn't add the subaru conditioner, due to me needing in near future engine removal. should I put the conditioner in?

WOW, it was the thermostat, I never had a oe unit in there, it functions beautifully, I flushed the core and rad like a mad man, hope it stays good for a while. No joke oem thermostat are the only things that work in these aluminum subaru engines, I guess it has to do with the high heat sink properties that make the single stage AF therms not function properly. Thanks for the help guys!

the problem with this situation is the fans are spinning in vain, the cooland is stuck in the engine block loop bypassing the radiator, the fans are useless. I just flushed the crap out of the core and radiator, they both flow free, now I need to put a oem thermostat in, hope that fixes it.

I had a oem thermostat, I replaced it with a AM thinking the prob was the thermostat, i'll get a oem, I flushed the rad as well, it flowed water freely, i'm going to pull the motor soon to replace the oil separation plate that is leaking, i'll take the rad to a local rad shop to clean, i'll also try to do a better job at flushing the core.

ok, so it's still doing it, intermittent, I just used a hose, should I try the air thing?

Just hooked the garden hose to the inlet/outlet of the radiator core, and flushed both directions for a while, at first it came out as a dribble, then a ton of crud came out and now it flows freely. put it all back together, burped the system, filled it, ran it trying to get the fan to cycle took forever, cooling seemed more efficient, I haven't yet taken it on a long trip but i'm thinking it's good. i'll keep you posted.

wow, I bet you have it, I'm looking into flushing core now.

yes they do, I am running the conditioner

yes, I tested AC function and it turned on and off w/ ac. I'm going to try to flush the heater core, thanks for your help. why would it work when first started but then later fail? i really don't want to replace a heater core.:-\

1996 auto, (ej 25) new here, I got this car a couple of years ago w/ a head gasket bad. I refurbished the motor myself, I did everything, including water pump and valves. the car has been flawless until of late I noticed that the cooling fans (both) would not cycle normally. I replaced the thermostat, bleed the system, it works good after you let it cool down, then I start it up, it heats up, I feel the thermostat open, radiator gets hot then fans turn on for just a short period of time then shut off, (normal) well after driving it in the city for 30 minutes, I get back to the driveway and I listen. fans don't turn off, I ran the AC while driving but when I hit the slow roads I turn it off. heater blows hot, radiator seems to be clear and un obstructed(water hose flows freely through it) no leaks, not using any coolant, the HG's I used were the updated style. and I do run the conditioner (subaru) I was thinking the coolant sensor in the coolant pipe but like I said earlier, when I feel the bottom radiator hose get hot, the fans turn off right away, after the 30 min use, the bottom hose is cool (no circulation) and radiator feels cool, fan stays on. again, it does not over heat, or even fluctuate when circulation stops. I know I should pull the sensor out when fans stay on, but the lower hose is cool, so the engine is hot, that's why the ecu is telling the fan to stay on, why is in not circulating??