beanyo

My 97 legacy wagon has really corroded battery cables. The negative is a pain to replace since it is crimped on and it's got a second negative wire running off it to an engine ground (i think). The engine ground corrosion gives me the same symptoms you have. Whenever my car doesn't start, i just spray PB blaster on it and it's starts right up. I think of it as an anti-theft device. This doesnt take care of the radio static, but whatever You're terminal end looks really messed up, but you can probably fix it by spraying battery cable cleaner (NAPA) on it, and wiping away with disposable shop towels or steel wool if needed. Hope this helps...

I did a whole bunch of diagnostics on my 164k 4EAT to figure out what was wrong with it. Shift Solenoid 3 AKA Solenoid Assembly Control Part # 31919AA040 is broken (used for overrun clutch; throwing very low resistance readings). Dealer quoted me $385 for the part. Anyone know where I might be able to get an aftermarket one, or should I just hunt down a TCU in a junk yard / sell the car?

15 flashes -- Shift solenoid 1....................................Detects open or shorted drive circuit, as well as valve seizure. OBD code diagnoses it as an electrical, not mechanical issue. Can someone verify, add to, or deny my next steps? 1) Disconnect and reconnect all plugs in TCU/ECU 2) Check grounds (anyone know where they are for shift solenoid 1 / shift solenoid C? All i can think of to check the ground w/o pulling transmission apart is spraying PB blaster on the thing) 3) Replace shift solenoid C - Does anyone know if the "valve assembly kit" includes the shift solenoid?? I know it includes the Duty C. Otherwise I'll have to tear apart trans & order the part #

AT OIL TEMP light stays on for a long time at start, then flashes 16 times. (The car has 163k miles) EDIT2: Found info on reading trans codes w/ the last post on this thread: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/20304-2000-outback-cel-oil-temp-light-constantly-flashes-2.html Ground out 4 or 5 pin on the diagnostic connector with the ground pins taped to the connector in order to get the TCU codes.

At oil temp light is flashing. I'll check how many times tomorrow morning (parked far away currently) and update here. If duty c is the same thing, there are plenty of manuals which would be awesome! Thanks for the link, too. I havent found the solenoid in there yet but i'm still looking around in there. Will post back if/when i find it.

I just bought a '98 legacy wagon (163,000 miles) to complement my '97 legacy wagon. My CEL is throwing a P0763 code, or Shift Solenoid (abbreviated SS) C Electrical, indicating an electrical problem w/ the sensor (generally sensor failure). Looks like its sitting near the valves; http://www.motobild.com/subaru/1997-subaru-legacy-l-shift-solenoids-duty-solenoids-valve-body-removal-installation.html It looks like a straightforward procedure as long as I keep track of parts (I was an FSAE kid in college, but I'm kind of a noob on this real car stuff). A couple of questions: 1) Are there other terms for a SS? Is this similar to a duty solenoid? I called two dealerships down here looking for the part, and no one heard the term "shift solenoid". One guy said that it likely referred to a "Solenoid Pack" or something like that ( sits near valves, $220 ). 2) Diagnosing electrical problems: I imagine it makes sense to test the wiring to the solenoid prior to installing a new one. From research, a multimeter should read 12V between the SS plug & chassis ground; (since im a noob) does the car have to be in the "on" (obviously not running) position to get this reading? Is this a stupid step? 3) Assuming i dont electrical test, how do i know which SS is SS C? THANKS A TON! EDIT: Via more research; 1) Going to ask for service manager at the dealership tomorrow; see if he knows anything abt. shift solenoid 2) Car has to be in "on" position to get 12V reading EDIT2: 1) Talked to a few people at the shop and no one knew (??); told me to get the part number off the solenoid when i pull it out. Looking to get advance warning of the part # so i can go somewhere cheaper than the dealership.