ferret

Drive them both. They have different personalities, then make up your mind. Mechanically they are pretty much the same, so that shouldn't play into your decision.

All 99-current Foresters, 2000 to current Legacy/Outbacks should have the Subaru Conditioner added at each coolant change ( that's every 30K ). The conditioner is under $5 from the dealer and prevents external head gasket leaks which show up at the lower rear of these engines. In early 2003 Subaru once again put a different improved version of their head gasket from the factory, but still recommends adding the conditioner at each coolant service. The 99-02 vehicles were part of a Subaru recall ( WP-099 ). Where the dealer added the conditioner. Then with proof of it being added at each subsequent coolant service, Subaru warrents these against external leaks up to 100K. I know of 3 people so far who have had their's replaced with more than the standard 60K warrenty, but under 100K. 2003 and newer have it in from the factory and are suggested to add it at every change, so Subaru did not warrent these past the factory 60K.

Legacy/Outback as stated 2005. Forester N/A also 2005. Forester Turbo 2004. Impreza N/A 2005. WRX/STI IIRC 2002. So by 2005 all were drive by wire.

If you get a chance, drive them both. Then make your decision. Both have their positives, and the negatives of either is more subjective to the owner / driver.

Not certain of the 95-98, but in the 99 and on N/A, the ECU has it's main ground to the intake manifold. On USDM, just to the left of the throttle body ( as you look from the front with the hood open ). As the wiring harness breaks out of the main body of wires, you will see the ground lug under a bolt there. The Turbo's are on the right side from the front. STI's are to the block. This may be why the 'grounding mod' has some effect on engine performance as it produces a full underhood grounding that Subaru doesn't from the factory.

Could be the right C/V joint. As you turn left, the right front tire has the further travel. This puts the power from the front differential on that right tire and C/V joint. Check it by jacking up the vehicle and turn the steering to the left. Then slowly rotate the right tire and feel the joint for a stutter instead of a smooth rotation.

In the Subaru Drive-By-Wire, the cruise control is a co-processor built into the ECU. When the Cruise control flashes, it means either the ECU stored a cruise control error code, OR it has been disabled by the ECU detecting a MAJOR code ( one that flashes the CEL like a misfire, or one that keeps the CEL Illuminated ). Other minor stored codes will not disable the cruise. So armed with this knowledge, The Cruise Control can flash without the CEL illuminated. The cruise function is disabled and a cruise related code is stored. OR Any error that illuminates the CEL will also disable the cruise and make it flash also. External to the ECU for cruise function ONLY is the switch itself, Off/On and set/resume functions are all on the same 'stick' on the steering wheel. ( no more separate cruise switch on the dash board ), the brake cancel switch, and the clutch cancel switch. All other sensors and switches which the cruise co-processor monitors are also used by the ECU's main processor.

No you say it dies, does that mean it runs, but fails to idle with you foot off the gas? Is this perhaps a M/T or automatic?

I don't know if you have done it yet, but I have seen the Subaru conditioner seal the few external leaks I have seen on the SOHC 2.5L engines. And it's only a few dollars from the dealer. If you have already decided to repair/replace the engine here are a few things I would consider: Rebuild, find a reputable mechanic, one who has Subaru experience and have them price the entire job. Replacement, again finding someone reputable to do it. Given CCR's reputation, I would definitely use them and sit on their 3yr/36K warranty. Same as a new vehicle warranty. Just my thoughts as I read this thread.

Follow this URL. You will probably have to register on Peaty's board to see the pictures, but Peaty documents his Subaru's and changes to them very well. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1996

It means the ECU turned both fans on and expected the coolant temp to decrease by X degrees after a predetermined time and it did not. Be certain both fans are operational, The radiator is clear for air to pass thru, nothing blocking airflow, could be a clogged radiator. could be low on coolant. But now you get the idea...... ECU tried to cool the engine and couldn't.

On passenger strut column under the hood is the dropping resistor. Just unplug it to disable DRL's on the Forester.

MY03 Forester to current.

Unlike the WRX, the Forester is also an insurance bargain. There is no additional surcharge for the XT over the X or XS. Insurance companies state they attract a different type of driver than the WRX.

In another thread, I posted my own experiences. Take it for what you want, this is what I have done and experienced: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68027 My own experiences with this code across many different vehicles ( not only Subarus ): 1. Look for exhaust leaks anywhere from the engine to the rear oxygen sensor. Many times I have found this to be the biggest cause. 2. Failed or failing Catalytic converter. Owners usually don't want to hear this, but unless there is a leak, or slow responding oxygen sensor ( front or rear ), the code is correct when it is set. If you reset this code without fixing anything, it will usually come back in a day...2.....week....next 2 weeks....The converter should be replaced. 3. Cheaper than the converter but usually not the cause, replacing the front, rear or both oxygen sensors. Without a code pointing directly at the sensor, or charting the sensor to prove it has a slow response, this is cheaper than replacing the converter, but in most of my experiences, it just puts off replacing the converter. I have seen converters last years and 150K + miles. But it seems the ones that were part of the 99 and newer vehicles are of a different substrate and don't seem to last as long. Somewhere in this time, car manufacturers had to lower emissions again and introduced a slightly different converter and oxygen sensors. Both don't appear to be a long lasting as in the past. My own experiences....and $.02. Take it for what it's worth. You are welcome to input with your own.

Right out of the owners manual ( pdf copy on Subaru.com ) The defogger will automatically shut off after about 15 minutes. If the window clears before that time, push the switch to turn it off. It also turns off when the ignition switch is turned to the “ACC” or “LOCK” position. If defrosting or defogging is desired when you restart your vehicle, you have to push the switch to turn it on again. To turn on the defogger, push the switch. To turn it off,

More than that, switch, relay, timer harness. Just rebolt and go, In the summer they will be warm enought.

The mounting to the door gusset is the same. You will just have an extra connector from the new mirrors with no place to connect.

The L unheated mirror is a little smaller than the S heated ones. So when you look fron the front or rear, one side will look awkward. But at least you will have a mirror. Heater element doesn't matter.

Yup, run by Peaty, very active member on other Subaru boards, Lives in Kansas.

You can read the following re: replacing the water pump http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/AboutEWAug06.pdf?PHPSESSID=6e29f191633962bdafa56e8627bd306f My own experience was when I had a 2.2L, the interval was 60K so I did the belt only at 60K, then at 120K I did the water pump and crankshaft front seal. So every other timing belt, I did the water pump. I didn't have the later oil pump nor cam seal leaks. I had that Legacy for over 200K. Now my 02 and 04 2.5L, since the timing belt interval is 105K, the pump will be replaced then. And with 3 dealers within 30 minutes, I will inspect the other seals and replae them if i see and leaks or seepage. End of my experience and $.02

Is it an Automatic? If it is, on the passenger side under the hood by the tranny bell housing, you will see where the speedometer cable goes into the tranny. It's held by a clip from the side. There is an adapter that it sets into that goes down into the tranny speedometer gear. That plastic/nylon adapter is probably broken. My 90 Legacy did that 3 times in the 7 years I owned it. Dealer only part. Used to be $4 or $5, but that was back in the 90's. Easy to replace. Cooling Fans, probably a bad relay (stuck on).

You are correct about the rear. Pedal is on the disk, E-brake is a smaller set of shoes on the center drum. That's not a test. Best way I know is to check with a runout gauge, but most shadetree mechanics don't own one. Either rear can cause the shake. I might jack up one side at a time and just spin the wheel. It may take someone to gently push on the pedal. And as you spin the tire, feel for the uneven drag. Thats the side I would suspect. Tone ring in the front is a different story. Better to get a new one from a dealer than deal with a "rusted used" one from a junkyard.

For the price, I would let it be. On side is hydraulic, the other side solid. If it idles smoothly and is smooth under power, I would let sleeping dogs lie. The valve timing on one side will be different than the other, that would lead to uneven idle or power. But if you are not experiencing that, let us know in a year, how the experiment is proceeding.

1997 ALL Subaru's are AWD ONLY ...... Read down in the following link .... http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_history.html